SKiT_R31

Hey All, I've got an R33 RB25DE+T (Stock RB25DET ECU and Injectors), with an AFC Neo piggy back and a wideband O2 Air/Fuel ratio + RPM datalogger (innovate). I've had the car on the dyno before so i knew the fuel mixtures were way out, on my first run everything was spot on, the AFR's at RPM points match the dyno plot perfectly. At light throttle with my cars lambda sensor disconnected the car ran at 10:1 AFR, which was fine - I was able to lean this to the 12's no issues whatsoever (took -20% on the AFC), this was my practice and everything was fine. So now I started to work on my massive lean spot at WOT (car lean spikes to 16:1 at 3000rpm), kept adding fuel up to +50% but it didn’t make any difference... Moving on from this I tried to adjust my rich spot up top (10:1 AFR from 5000 to 7000rpm) no matter how much fuel i pulled out of it, it just didn’t make any difference to fuel mixtures or the pull of the car. The AFC shows the correction (in the monitor mode), but it just doesn’t do anything... It's like the ecu is RPM mapped at those points... The more i lowered the boost (its at 10psi), the better the lean spike looked (~ 8psi brought it to 14:1). Any ideas? The AFM in and out are both set to 1 is this correct? All wiring is perfect. Cheers for any info, don’t tell me to take it to a tuner.

Hey All, I've decided to put my R33 up for sale because I want to go in a different direction. Not interested in swaps for bikes/4wd's/falcadors - may consider another skyline (GTR/R34) but mainly after cash. Car is serviced every 5000km with Mobil 1, recently changed spark plugs and did a compression test - car has perfect compression on all cylinders. Car is always warmed to temperature before driven, and idled for a minute before shut off RB25DE, stock internals R33 RB25DET ECU and Injectors Apexi AFC-Neo fuel controller (New SAFC) R34 Turbo R34 SMIC Water + M/Ethanol spray injection (boost controlled) Splitfire Coilpacks Ball valve manual boost controller 17x8 & 17x9 jap rims with good tyres R32 GTR Gearbox (with Redline Lightweight Shockproof oil) GTR ultra lightweight billet flywheel GTR Excedy HD clutch Rear Active-LSD ABS Tien super street coilovers in the front, lowered springs in the back Genuine Xenon headlamps Freshly regassed AC 4Ch JVC AMP, 12" sub, 6.5" Kevlar splits, pioneer CD player (great acoustics/treble, good midrange and bass) Alarm/Immobiliser & Remote central locking Car made 164kW on 9PSI at all 4 wheels on the GT Garage Dyno, fuel mixtures were out a fair bit (lean down low, excessively rich up top) the boost is now at 10.5PSI and has been tuned to correct fuel mixtures which gave a massive performance gain, probably ~ 180kW now (I’ll put it back on the dyno on the 17th). Car is mechanically in top shape, 190,000 km on the clock, looks to be genuine (no sign of tamper) and was N/A until 180,000 (so it’s had an easy like for an RB25). The body however has a few spots I'm not happy with, but it was used a daily driver - wouldn't drive a show car to the shops. I bought it of a uni-kid nip stock with an exhaust and a lot of rice/stickers, fixed it up as best I can, did the turbo conversion and tune myself. Car is on 15 Degree Ign timing (standard) with no detonation issues. It is incredibly snappy and responsive, with It's short gearing (4.36:1) and the turbo spooling at 2000rpm. After $11,500

Does anyone know at what airflow percentage the ECU starts to crack the shits? I'm currently on 10PSI peaking 90% airflow (according to my SAFC), I have a wideband o2 air/fuel mixture + RPM datalogger which I'm using to tune my air-fuel mixtures. Currently my AFR's are around 10.5:1, so if I remove 15% of airflow on my SAFC to bring it to a more suitable 12:1 AFR, my ECU should see ~ 76.5% airflow, is this correct? I have leaned it out about 10% so far and have a massive improvement through upper midrange and at peak power, which I am unsure whether its from moving back into the ECU's more tolerant maps, having more ideal fuel mixtures, or a mixture of both. Anyway, what I'm asking (to try and save myself some work, since I’m really tuning by feel) is what is the ideal airflow to tune for? I could get away with upping the boost another psi or so (willing to take the AFM to about 95% flow, as I monitor it, have an alarm plus it is very consistent and reliable), but don’t want to then lose power from the ecu pushing me into R & R maps - obviously I’ve got the fuel under control, but I don’t want to take the ign hit. Also, I've had to add fuel down low to fix a massive lean spot (so the ECU see's another ~ 10% airflow) so another question is, does the ECU get upset only about maxing the airflow meter, OR does it get also upset about higher air flow at a lower RPM (say 50% at 3000rpm). Ta in advance if anyone has the info .

keen on pfc, where are you located? What is its current tune?

I'll buy it ASAP for $65 if you can express post it.

I've got a gts4 with gtr coilovers in the front and gtst adjustible damper struts in the back. If gtr and gtst rears are the same, I'd just go gtr all round.

Yeah the bov would be the cause, they have a tiny hole in them which is enouugh to cause stalling and rough idle, but you issue would be because when the throttle is closed (and the bov is connected to the plenum) vacuum sucks the bov open. If you'r running low boost, i would just block the bov and let it 'hektic' dose until you get it sorted. As long as you dont have any air leaks between the turbo and AFM, as you dont want it to lean out.

Nah sorry, bit pricey for his budget (was really just after a replacment long motor) didnt want to low ball offer you, ended up getting one from the mainland. cheers mate,

Yeah your right, but as is said, its the higher volume intercoolers and piping that have the stalling issue, because the amount of metered air that is vented is enough to flood the engine (when it tries to supply the fuel to support it), i suppose higher boost levels on smaller coolers would have the same issue. SAFC's etc can also fix it, as they have a set amount of closed throttle airflow to feed the ecu (which you set).

Never had any issues with stalling, I just didnt like it so loud. I only have a std piping through an R34 intercooler though, i think you'd have more issue with a FMIC since there is a much higher volume of metered air to vent. PM me an offer on the piping, do you need a std bov? I can also shoot you a photo to make things clearer. (If you dont know what it looks like, as i didnt)

hahaha, 29mm isn’t it? That was an absolute nightmare, I searched everywhere for that stuff, non existent. The closest i could find was some marine hose that was going to be a loose fit, but $120 per meter!!! I ended up fitting an ATMO bov until I could come across the stock intake and plumb back bov/breather piping. Took me ages, but then instantly ended up with 2 because when I converted it to plumb back and sold the ATMO, the bloke gave me his stock bov and piping *face palm*.

Neg, I think you'd be better off with 0.8mm gap. If you buy NGK BCPR7ES-11 they will have a 1.1mm gap (what I baught initially and gapped down, they were good on stock boost) but if you just buy BCPR7ES they will already be gapped at 0.8, which imo would be best if your after 12psi.

That is a dangerous game to play. I would say your plugs are sooty for different reasons, most likely just rich A/F ratios the car could be R & R'ing or could just have a rich idle (bung O2 sensor) or just be a normal rich running RB with upped boost. If your car is in any way modified, I wouldn't recommend hotter plugs; standard 6's would be a minimum.

I run NGK BCPR7ES plugs gapped to 0.75 with splitfire coilpacks. I used to run a 1.1mm gap which was good to ~ 10psi, but i had issues when I added my water meth &/ raised the boost, so gapped them down.

My R33 GTS4 didn’t have an oil return bung (had a feed though) and had an alloy sump (AWD), I wanted to tap it but couldn’t get to it and didn’t want to pull the engine out, so I used the VCT return. I cut the metal VCT line short, put a T piece in with one end the same size as the VCT, but the other ends the larger size (the same as the normal turbo drain). I replaced the block's VCT fitting with the larger fitting used for the factory turbo return. I then cut the turbo drain pipe as short as possible, and ran a silicone hose (one that couldn’t be kinked) to the T-piece. I have never had a problem, just make sure you have no inclines in your return line, it must always be on a downward angle (a slight level at the T piece etc is OK).

*R33 and R34

I've got some from an R34 and an R34 Which are you interested in, and how much are they worth?

I know somone who would be interested in the engine (without the box)

Hey, all of this is fried/damaged on my car, so I'm after the lot. Would need to be posted to Tasmania.... Thanks, -Dan

Cheers for that, I'll get onto it.

Thanks man, yeah I have GTST rear brakes and hubs ready, just need the cash for GTR front hubs and brakes (bit down on the list ATM). The cost was really rough, just sort of guessed without putting too much thought into it, but ill do a breakdown now; R34 Turbo $300 R34 SMIC $60 R33 factory piping and crossover pipe $100 RB20/25DET exhaust manifold $75 Front & Dump Pipe $80 Braided turbo feed line with restrictor $120 Custom oil drain/t-pieces/silicone hose etc $25 (I've tapped into the head-block vct? oil return line for turbo drain) RB25DET ECU ~ $150 (guessed, i already had one of these spare) RB25DET Injectors ~ $150 (guessed, i already had these spare also) Water + Meth kit $350 (basic kit, with nozzle/lines/pump/wiring & relays) Turbotech manual boost controller $40 So that’s about $1450, and I’m sure there would be other random costs like gaskets/goo/replaced studs etc. The exhaust was already fitted to the car, but on looks to be a $200 custom press bent jobby (its not badly crimped though) I have looked into a 3" but would require turbo back, I’ve tested 3" dumps but they don’t clear the gearbox cross member, so that would need to be custom plus the car is a 4 door (so possibly custom cat back). The car also already had splitfire coilpacks, so that was a bonus. And I have also put an R32 GTR gearbox in it, ultra lightweight RB26 flywheel and Exedy HD organic RB26DET clutch all costing $1k second hand. I am aware that the stock GTS4 gearbox is more than strong enough, but the GTR box has better gear ratio's, plus at the time I wasn’t sure of the damage to my box (clutch exploded) or flywheel, and I could purchase only all the above or none of it (and I needed to fix car ASAP, wasn't fun BTW). Even 165kW in the GTS4 is a bit of fun, just from the incredibly short gearing and good grip, it is a daily so I don’t want to push it too hard, but I think 200 would be a great number to have while I sort out the rest of the car (front TIEN SS’s due for rebuilding, front brakes and some light body work – like the car to be Immaculate) By then being sick of the power, I might try my luck with a 3” exhaust, GT3071R, and FMIC. edit: I do have stock fuel pump AFAIK, might have an R33 GTST one around somewhere I could fit, what are you using? Cheers

AFAIK the AFM on S1 N/A is the same as the turbo item? That was just a power run, to see what state my car is in, nothing was changed - everything is setup how I set it up at home. I was going to get my SAFC tuned but he recommended it would be a waste of time and that the car really needed full aftermarket management, its unusual for the tune on an N/A+T to be this out of whack, but it's fair enough and I will definitely get more power and better drivability from it. I'm aiming for 12psi and/or as much power as he can get using the water+meth, with any luck it ends up with >250hp, but my eventual goal is for 300hp. At this stage it looks like I'll end up with a power-fc, should have everything sorted within the month (actually my deadline). Sucks that you can't edit old posts, was going to change it to the correct format; Model - R33 GTS4 Engine - RB25DE Modifications / Parts Used - R34 Turbo, R34 SMIC, RB25DET Factory Manifold, R33 GTST Injectors, 2.5" Cat back, Water + Meth spray Engine Management Used - Standard RB25DET ECU Fuel Used - BP Ultimate 98 Boost Used - 9 PSI Dyno Tune Results - 164.5KW/220HP @ 6400RPM Costs - Parts: $1500 Labour: $FREE (fitted myself) Tuning: $FREE SO FAR (Ignition adjustment & water meth adjustment done my self) Dyno Graph

Finally got my R33 on the dyno, made 164kW at all four on 9psi. Its an S1 R33 GTS4 RB25DE, stock R34 turbo, Stock R34 SMIC, Stock R33 GTST ECU + Injectors, Stock RB25DET exhaust manifold, stock R33 front + dump pipe, 2.5" cat back exhaust, 50/50 water+methanol injection. Car was incredibly lean down low (14.7:1) for about 1500rpm IN BOOST, then stupidly rich up top (low 10:1) possibly in rich and retard mode, the tuner (Nick Summers) reccomends full aftermarket management (i was going to fit an SAFC shortly) so thats all a bit disapointing. Explains why i was getting detonation in low revs above 6psi though (the reason why i fitted water meth) and i do agree with the tuner.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/full-spool-Borgwarn...=item4aa1139fc7

Got pics?