SKiT_R31

... Usually stock brakes with good pads are MORE than enough, for one pull up to avoid an accident, and bigger better brakes arent going to stop you any quicker (infact later, more rolling weight!) yes they are heaps better for track/twisties, as the brakes are constantly in use and get hot etc. personally, I'm happy with my standard sized brakes, with a really good pad, and DBA4000 (slotted & cross drilled) with braided brake lines. Stops damn quick, plenty of bite, very responsive. So it really depends on what you want your brakes for, but more often than not, you way better off spending your money on tyres, because thats whats connecting you to the ground. bigger brakes dont hurt, but you dont NEED them, depends on your driving style, imo - im not driving any faster, its for road ffs, only acceleration, which last time i checked you didnt brake during... Ill go bigger eventually, but its not a high priority as really all its going to do is hurt performance everywhere but constant cornering. also to missr34 - a bosch 040 wont give you any more power, unless your starving your engine of fuel atm. I noticed when i put a bosch 023 in my car, the fpr held its pressure constant when revving (before i revved it and it halved) making it slightly more respnosive, and also stopped a light ping when shifting straight back into high revs WOT. and on newer car like yours, i wouldnt worry until your making a fair bit more power.

another vote for organic (thats the way i went) an exedy rb25det organic will happily handle anything you'll throw at it but mainly because, you said you wanted a bit of give, meaning you want to slip/ride it on occasion??? for smooth take offs etc you need to ride clutches, if you got something like a button, if you were to ride it, they shred really easily (since theres not much friction area) so for smooth daily driving it possibly wouldn't last too long at all. A button would more be suited to a track/drift/high powered car.

Compression isn't really as much of an issue as people seem to think. the 25de+t on a 25det ecu will happily make as much power as a normal 25det befroe R&R, wont hit any problems due to compressions, only gains (more power less boost, more responsive etc) and from then on, to get more power, your going to need after market management, and from there its in the tune, you could make as much power as the internals can handle, compression wont be the limiting factor here. as for internals strength, the 25de and the 25det are essential identical motors, same strength, just different pistons (internally), even the same cams, different springs (though i haven't heard of any problems on stock limiter) differnt cam timing (adj cam gear fixes that, but it didn't seem to hurt at all) so becasue of the fact the the 25de is as strong as the 25det, and it has likely had a whole lot less abuse, with less power to stress it, its gonna be a much better motor to turbo. also, id much rather run 9psi for 200rwkw on 10:1CR than 12+psi on 9:1 CR, tell me whats more reliable?? I dont know about the diffs in them, but i know the gearbox will be a problem, 25de is the same as 25det (but single 2nd gear synchro) it will handle the power, but wont like abuse AT ALL, you wont want to snatch gears etc, just slowly shift it into gear, let it engage, easy the clutch, then stomp it, you can do it smooth and not sacrifice much, and for a daily i dont see a problem with this, i prefer sedate smooth gear changes, then feel the power of the car in the gear coming into power. But down the trak you might need a 25det box, but once again, alot have been abused. As for brakes, yeah you should upgrade them, but are you going to do 180 in your car? or drive full noise through twisties? if yes, then defiantly, put the best brakes you can on it, but if your just going to drive it normally with a little bit quicker acceleration - healthy n/a brakes are more than enough, just legal factor i suppose. clutch, prob over 150kw you'll need to get a better one, but once again, its a normal sorta thing for even a factory turbo car, its just one of the things you change. You really wont regret it, high comp 25de+t's are HEAPS more fun than normal 25dets (probably also because alot are getting tired by now) you'll love it - don't let anyone talk you out of it

neg, rb25de boxes are single 2nd gear synchro, they are the same as the last of the S3 R31 boxes (but newer) they are equally as strong as a 20det box though

You dont need a new afm, 25DE works fine and injectors $200? nah, i picked mine up for $25 with a rail! no one wants them, as people only upgrade

pfft, im gonna go against the grain here, Turbo your current motor. I have seen it done, without internal modifications etc, and it is much easier than an engine conversion. All you have to do is; get an RB25DET ECU, plug it in Get 370cc injectors, plug them in Get a manifold and highflow turbo (stock 33 will run out of puff very quickly) bolt them on + Dump oil and water lines, your engine already has the provisions, just bolt them on FMIC & Piping DONE! that is ALL you need to do, things like dump/exhaust, fmic etc you would have to do anyway, and the rest are easy as piss, fitting a manifold and turbo, fitting injectors, plugging in an ecu... because of the extra 1pt compression the turbo will spool quicker and make more power off less boost, running anywhere from stock to ~ 10psi is ideal (after that the good old ecu goes R&R) There is no detonation issues, with 95 or 98 petrol. The RB25DE+T i saw got 210RWKW @ 9.5PSI, highflow R33 Turbo, 3" exhaust, FMIC, std 25det ecu (no piggy back), and the a/f mixes were bloody SPOT ON. and it was definately one of the more responsive turbo cars ive been in, plenty of power. Combine that with a SAFC, FPR and an Adj cam gear to get setup on the dyno and you'll be a happy chappy. My mate used the stock fuel pump to get that power, but laster upgraded, which i would also recomend imo all that shit is MUCH easier than buying a turbo engine and putting it in, you could do it in a day, and would cost less than $1000 (not inc fmic) AND you know the condition of your current motor, you wont risk a lemon etc,

Ive got them on my car, thoguh they've gone a goldy colour, damn they sound good, 6-3-1 (the 3-1 is 2x2" to 1x3") on a 3 " system on the high comp RB30DE god it sounds angry

Hey dude, sounds good, where abouts are you in tas? cheers

Hey all, i need borrow a RB25DE or RB25DET ecu, doesn't really matter which, safc will sort it out (have tunes for both) really want to take the car to the drags on the w/e, it wont happen otherwise... will put the full worth of the ecu down while i have it, since i'm not to well known on here... but i cant afford to buy one (plus i don't want one, after this its upgrade time to something decent)

Will this work on an R31??

Hey mate, really keen Does this have any tune on it atm? if so what for? Just be cheaper to tune etc. reason for sale? How does it connect tot he laptop? Serial?

haha ca20... could be dodgy afm, paddel type! can get gunked up and wont move too freely (giving dodgy readings) its common for pinny's to fill the airbox/intake piping/afm up with oil, pull it all off, check it and give it a clean, make sure the afm moves perfectly smooth (carby cleaner/elec contact cleaner). you best be though is to go to - r31skylineclub.com and go to CA20e section. maybe replace that motor with a CA18DET most parts for the ca20 are easy to come by and cheap, so you can do a bit of trial and error. cheak in the dizzy etc, could be worn, wind as much timing as you can into it, pinny's love timing and dont ping also take out the water temp sensor and give it a clean with a scourer (not the dash one the other one - or both) if thats gunked it makes the car in cold start all the time, also check the 02 sensor if you have bad economy issues. cheers

hahaha, it might START to spool in like 5th gear full throttle... your old turbo wouldnt hit 18psi by 3000rpm....

Short shifting isn't necessarily shifting before the limiter, but more shifting before the ideal point - for example shifting at 5800rpm when your peak power is at 6000rpm, or even shifting at 6200rpm when your still holding your peak power (because you'll shift into lower power, so your missing out). The best way to shift perfectly, is you dyno your car, and figure the rpm where the power drops off (after peak power) vs the power your shifting into, for example, my car drops off about 10kw by limiter (currently using standard 25DET ECU) shifting then puts me right back into high revs and about the same power. If i was to shift right on peak power, i would be shifting back say ~ 30kw. i.e. my old power (havnt dyno'd since yet) power peaked at 6000rpm and dropped to ~ 140 by limiter, at 5000rpm it was also at 140 and peak torque, so revving to limiter and shifting into peak torque is alot better than shifting at peak power back to ~ 4000rpm and building it all up again That said, if i want to feel the power and have a bit of fun, i shift right on peak power, because all my gain is from 4000-6000, so thats where it rips you back and where all the fun is at. These days though, keeps making power till limiter, without limiter i couldn't feel any drop off but fear of popping it made my safc dump fuel 7000rpm = flames flames flames and no ignition cut

I've got an RB25DE Mines ECU for sale, that i havnt found the limiter on yet (well past 7500..) It seems to have slightly leaner mixes and HEAPS more timing (esp down low) selling because im saving for a pfc If you want your car to rev, your gonna need the right cams to take you that far, valve springs - meh, i havnt had any problem with mine, you'd more want to worry about the bottom end taking it

if you have to leave it completely stock, do that, make it so the engine bay looks 100% factory (no aftermarket bling bits at all, dont even clean dust off it).. then, give it a high flow panel filter, stock turbo exhaust (or somthing stock looking+sounding, no cannon etc) & highflow cat and do internal modifications none the wiser...

Cool, let us know how it goes

exactly, there wont be a gain in having a bigger pump, but makes things a bit more reliable if your starting to ask for a fair bit more power than stock

I dont as of yet, but will do soon, ill post a clip soon, got a mandrel 3" exhaust, massive long hotdog and magnaflow mandrel centre-offset muffler, being fed from some Jasma Extractors (damn they are nice! 6-----2-1 emptying in 3") - and yes it needed the 3", lost nothing down low, gained sooo much up top, deep and angry note The Cams arent that impressive, 255deg & 8.3mm, with adj cam gears, but its still lumps happily (@ ~ 700rpm) making peak power at about 6500rpm now, give me a couple weeks and ill have a film clip of it on the dyno, oh i cant wait for that...

if your keeping it na especially, i say definitely do it, it makes alot of difference, the whole car heaps snappier and more fun. theres no power change, but the car accelerates faster and easier, with obviously less direct load on the engine, likewise if you lightened the entire drive train (flywheel, clutch, balancer, accessories, tail shaft, wheels) the car would be alot quicker without the engine actually making any more power, and lets face it, with n/a's unless you want to spend big bickies, there aren't a great deal of mods out there to chose from. You will shave a tad off your 1/4 second time and it will be snappier in the twisties/track, you will need to control the load more with your accelerator as you'll have less built up momentum, taking off changes a bit but isnt harder and you learn it quickly - if you lighten the rest of the drivetrain (wheels/clutch/shaft) it would feel great to take off in. I noticed no negative change in economy, and even with high end cams never stall with my low and lumpy idle, if you can afford it, its a great mod. pretty much the reason why people say they're easy to stall, is because apparently they never learnt to drive... for a smooth take off you should pick your revs (say 1000rpm or 1500rpm - depending how quick you take off) hold the revs at that, as you ease the clutch out apply more throttle to keep the revs at that so that when its engaged the car is moving at that rpm, you do this quckly and smoothly watching the tacho and learning the sound of the revs, its how you take off smoothly, with a lightened flywheel, with the less momentum, obviously it takes a few launches until you get a feel of how much the engine slows and how much throttle you need. one big bonus for me was how quickly the car free rev's, as i do not down shift without rev matching, so blipping the throttle is heaps easier and much more direct (doesn't slowly rev then get quicker as the car makes torque - well not as noticeably, more just jumps to the exact revs) so you can down shift quicker and smoother, with more accuracy. is harder to snatch second on-the-spot though, if that worries you (haha - burnout)

i push a bosch 023 on my car, pushed the fuel pressure from 32psi to 40psi, but thats probably just because of the higher pressure from the pump on the adjustable fpr. i noticed more response, also - when you revved the car with the old pump the fuel pressure dropped right back and slowly build up (leaning the car obviously when you first stomp it) now it never dips, so its better in that respect. but then my car needed it, as it now makes over 150kw, and it had a stock r31 pump made to feed about 80...

if your doing the 25/30 thing, just deck the block while tis out of the car, you can go about 2mm and that should push the compression to a nice ~ 10.3:1 (rb30e pistons with RB25 head gives a 8.3:1 CR) alternatively you could use rb25de pistons, are you rebuilding the block? I recently pulled my motor to bits, got the head machined as i thought it might be warped, definitely was, like a banana and it was apparently shaved within 0.0001mm of its life, and you can definitely see that it has, anyway the squash zone didn't look effected, but i don't have a trained eye, i don't know how much they took off, but damn - it was alot! car wouldn't run on 98 with anymore than -3deg timing - otherwise it pinged, this pushed the compression from 165PSI across all cylinders (cold, throttle closed, 10.5:1CR static) to 195PSI across all cylinders (cold, throttle closed) (low reading could be comp guage used, also other things come into play, like overlap in cams/adj cam gears) With a 1/4 mix of pure methanol, the car now goes off its f**king head - with +20 degree's timing (by off its head, lights up 2nd gear sideways with locked diff and 215's) haha not a good power estimation, but all i can say is it wasn't a scratch before with 151kw - on what it is now, cant wait to get it back on the dyno But yeah, moral to the story is, you can shave the head, but isn't the ideal solution - esp for real high compression (for example there is a member with an rb25/30 with 25de pistons and -2mm on the block with 12:1 CR and his car loves 98ron) I'm going to build another block down the track - and im going to go all out, probably stick with this head and just get some 25det forgies (should drop it about 1:CR) also for the record, cams are 8.3mm, 255deg, no problems, even with a tooth out (boy that was buckets of fun, no ecu limiter, lag-lag-lag 'what...?' 20det coming on boost 'hmm' 5000rpm sideways, bang 8000rpm in 0.0001 of a second and, bang bang bang bang (thank god i had it set to DUMP fuel at 7800 from -37 to + 50 on the safc!) haha its all fun and games, just when you put it all together, wind it over with a ratchet to make sure you don't lose your valves

^^^ Cheers

You don't want back pressure mate, thats a myth, you want as little as possible but as for pipe size, the loss is due to not having high velocity exhaust flow, actually increasing back pressure heaps from the slower and therefore cooler exhaust, and making the engine have to work a lot harder to push the exhaust out, which is why you get a loss down low - instead of the almost vacuum you get with smaller piping that can actually pull the exhaust from the engine. getting a mandrel 2.25" exhaust & extractors, with a high-flow cat and straight through mufflers, i doubt you would lose anything down low (but there wouldn't be a gain - vs the stock restrictive exhaust), and up top would be very responsive, but thats only if its going to regularly see top end, if its more a std daily, mostly kept in low rpm, 2" mandrel would be fine, and happily flows 100kw at the wheels, you would possibly get better low end economy from this, vs a larger diameter pipe. if it was me... I'd probably get a 2" mandrel with a few hot dogs, maybe a mandrel center offset or straight through, something high flowing that wont sound like a tin can, and if you were in new Zealand, a pipe where the cat should be, otherwise high flow. That way the exhaust will flow freely, and happily at high speeds through the smaller piping, esp with some decent tuned length extractors. but then it does depends if you want to work the engine any more

where abouts are you located mate?