SKiT_R31

if it works on an rb25det it will work with a DE

After an adjustible cam gear for the intake side of my RB25/30, (post to tas) cheers

My ecu used to work in my loom, but i had another ecu that wouldnt, but would in another car I have a 25DE in an R31 this is whats written on the ecu, 5H 23710 23U00 (could have been a V though) MEC-R540 A1 3208 Ta

How would the engine run if you just put a 0.3kohm resister into the plug, so it never had cold richen? what is the reason engines run rich at idle, safety (for morons who cane the car cold so they dont cook the motor? since lean burning is a hotter explosion)? I noticed going from a clutch fan to temp controlled electric thermo made my warm ups quicker

In good nic, non munted pref untouched, mined been chopped 100 times, and has faulty plug (shorts out) so aslong as its nothing similar cheers

as the title says.. is there any code on the sticker etc? cheers all

$40 plus post to tas for the stock RB20DET exhaust manifold? (will fit rb25det s1?) cheers

but a highflow panel filter willb e better That said, paper filters aer still the best filtering, i.e. best for your engine

This still for sale? im keen - just did a valve in my beast ot any pics? top and bottom cheers

pretty sure Turbo and non turbo heads are the same swapping the blocks would give you turbo compression, aka less power so from 10.2:1 like an R33 RB25 has, to about 9:1 like a turbo has...

how about now? after an intake side for rb25de (same as rb25det?) in blue cheers

I've got Penrite SIN in my beast, the 15w i used to run HPR30 in my RB30, its made for it, and they love it, so i thaught this was a fair compromise for my rebuilt 25/30 and the car seems to love it, i fully flushed my old oil (with a little bit of kero, then run clean from cheap oil, and left to drip dry for an hour or so) it seems to love this oil, smoothest its ever been (tried a fair few oils, though never royal purple or Mobil 1) way more rev happy, really smoothed out the poor rb30 bottom's top end revs (5.5-6k+) and it seems to love a tassie cold start, no more noisy lumping, quiet and smooth, but then i have had no decent synthetics to compare against

I would love to do that, but funds for that initial setup, plus full after market management for map sensors = $$$++ I did look up the plenum volume, and from what im reading it seems that longer is more for low end, and shorter is better for high end i'll sleep on it, but im thinking prob best to just keep my twin TB setup, and internally polish+port match the stock plenum and runners but on that note, something else got me thinking I also noted about variable length inlet runners, a few manufacturers do this now days, would be interested to investigate possibility's. for example, has anyone seen the rb20 redtop plenum? it has normal length runners and short length ones, interested how effective this was, and why they dropped it.

bit more costy though... anyone, what improvments, if any?

How would this go? on a 30de, with the pipe's coming into the chamber bell mouthed. As i could then run run the intake straight to where the battery normally goes. Appart from improving response, would this improve top end at all, or anywhere else in the rev range? and on that note, longer or shorter inlet runners better for power? ta

lol yeah there is, and ive used it before, i just didnt think N/A ECU's used it, thaught maybe my loom was for a 25DET

FAAARRRHHHKKKK for that sort of money, take it to an RB specialist tuner much cheaper and um, i was under the impression Non-turbo's didnt have knock sensors???

lol its prob time for lock look people, saying that FI is always faster than N/A is just stupid yes FI can easily make more power, but it doesn't mean a f**king stock 20det would come near a worked 30 n/a just because its turbo when i was saying what i've come up against, i mean people that want to have a go, i always drive sedately, because i prefer the lumpy throb and purr of low rpm, and the economy. you can tell when someone wants to or is dragging you, the revs, the wheel spin take off, high revving/limiter in gears, chirping 2nd (because thats normal for cruisy take off) and tearing off after you stop accelerating at speed limit. why is it so hard to comprehend, whats low comp 25det with a front mount, stock turbo and a 3" exhaust got? 150kw? thats being generous, then the heavy ass 33, delinquent driver, lag on take off, taller gearing. most speed limits at traffic lights are 60 to 80. its ignorant to refuse to believe that a short geared lighter car with over 150 at the wheels, couldn't touch close to a stock turbo, infact its just stupid, and this being off cams shit, you'd have to have some pretty serious cams to actually be laggy, i make 60rwkw at like ~ 2200rpm, hardly laggy anyway its a stupid discussion, its like saying 8's versus 6's in the olden days, yeah you could build a 6 to flog a stock 8, and even a mildly worked 8, but build the 8 up and the 6 cant touch it. More cubes means more potential, just like boost its a fact they CAN BE faster, but it is not a fact that all turbo's ARE faster, apart from of course, out of the factory

Aggreeing with the above post, i have had numerous R32's/R33's even 34's etc (most likely typical stock, with FMIC and 3" exhaust) pull up beside me, want to give me a go, even had people laugh at the thaught of dragging me. I chop them, over 150rwkw now, with short gearing, light car, locked diff, no lag, she just walks away from the typical attitude people, omfg fully sik turbo beat everything. in stating that, yeah you can get more power cheaper and easier from boost, but its not as fun and satisfying, and would never sound as good . its all about deciding what power you want, and how you want to get it. i would much rather 160 at the wheels, in an N/A screamer 3L than the same from a 20det 11L/100 avg, enough torque to happily pull up a hill at 1500rpm [not labouring, any more accel and it quickly accelerates] (5th gr) with 7% acceleration (SAFC) what more could you want. that said, thats my daily, and thats how i like my daily, and i am going to build another turbo as a thrasher, because they are fun and easy.

So are you's saying, when you replace your clutch, you dont need to get a billet fly wheel machined? also, can you get a lightened or billet fly wheel, lightened more? (if it can handle high power, and ur engine isnt taking a bit off could make it snappier and still safe?)

curiuos to above question, interested. got any other pics? side/rear/interior..? ta

Possibly leaky injector? hows economy? dirty afm/vacuum leak could cause the car to stall etc, but the smell of fuel would be from a leaking injector, or fuel lines somewhere (is it coming from the rear or front of the car? could be a leak from the tank lines) If its through the exhaust, could even be an ignition issue if its not blowing smoke

yeah i think its something to do with the massively high load on the engine, with it sucking heaps of air, then with no backpressure in the intake due to the poddy, the airflow has just stopped, or created some sort of random turbulence giving the afm an incorrect reading, causing it to over fuel/under fuel, or starve it of air. anyway moral of story, leave car in gear its all well and good people saying dont do 170 etc, but if she's in the situation where she needs to /can i.e. the track, it would be equally dangerous for the engine to just stall

you's all act like you havnt done it before, which if you say it, i call BS everyone does it atleast once, if there was no one aound her, no one in the car, she only put herself at risk which is just like if she where on the track not that im saying i condone it but just a note, you should have let the engine brake, i wouldnt clutch in/put it in neutral and then coast at those speeds, you want the engine to help you slow down.

um... if you leave it in gear, yuo will still have steering as the motors still turning over, and afaik you still have vacuum? meaning brakes.... not that its too hard to stop without power assistance anyway