SKiT_R31

I'm getting the woman's R33 on the road, I'm after a few random things people might have from popped engines/upgrades? Stock S1 coil packs (need to be good for 12psi) or cheap after markets RB20/25/30 Harmonic Balancer w/AC (pref no dents/chips) Tensioner and Idler pulleys, non rattly (mine were seizing) The bolt (and if possible 2 washers) that go with the t-belt idler pulley And just for my R33, a split dump pipe, either just the top/front section or all the way to cat, as I have a stock front pipe with 3" dump and am trying to fix slight over-boosting. Just PM me! Cheers -Dan

Yeah I've got some vids of that, he beat me twice -_-. Though ^apparantly is ~100kW up on me, so that makes sense & Also I think I've got another video of Zoids R33 and some pics to post when I get home...

It’s because the dyno operator rarely dials in the gear ratio/final drive/wheel diameter etc, I've had the same argument with actual tuners before, yarning about excessive torque figures. But if you get the RPM at which you make the peak torque figure and get the power figure at that point (using the graph) then use the equation [Torque (N.m) = 9.5488 x Power (kW) / Speed (RPM)] that will give you your actual torque figure at the wheels. Or just use this calculator; http://wentec.com/unipower/calculators/power_torque.asp

If you're still having oiling issues then drags would be a much safer happier option.

Disconnect your 02 sensor when tuning. I had my crossover at about 35% actually, it is important to tune this section as closed loop is only active under consistent throttle/revs (or mild changes) if you give the throttle a light stab, or under pretty much all start-stop city driving (unless your stupidly gentle at ~ 10%) it breaks closed loop; If you don’t tune this region your economy will be terrible (and when you do, your part throttle torque will be amazing). I tuned my part throttle at 13:1 until 4000rpm and then to 12.5:1, and my WOT to 12.5:1 until 3500 and then 12:1, richening to 11.5 at ~4500rpm as that’s a common spot for detonation (typical for peak torque rpm) but then back to 12:1 up top. If you're using any of the factory black rubber 90 degree bends, pull them off and check them. It’s really common for them to split on the inside of the bend and blow open under boost (I've known of 2 that have done this and caused headaches in the past).

SOLD! Some last pictures I took of it on its last drive, all clean.

I wound 37-38% out of my tune accross the board to get it stable at 12.0:1 AFR, you'll nearly max out yours!

Yeah cool. Nah it wont do any damage, I've played that game before to squeeze more out of small injectors. SAFC sounds like a good option, should make a world of difference for power and economy .

The N/A and Turbo AFM's physically appear to be identical and I didnt have any issues with mine (S1, green label) but I suppsoe it couldnt hurt to try Isn't normal fuel pressure 3Bar (43psi) at ATMO? So at idle with a vacuum it should be running somewhere around 32-33psi and with 7psi boost it should peak at about 50psi??? That would mean its running about 10psi too much fuel pressure; If so, that would be pushing your injectors to about 400cc which would richen your mixtures by a good >10% (which if factory takes you to 10-10.5:1 that justifies mixtures down to ~ 9:1 odd). Just an idea, are you on the stock reg?

Also, insufficient lubrication of the top end at low rpm is far less of a concern for me compared with the bottom end and high rpm (also much cheaper and easier to fix).

Just another note as I can’t really find any info on it, but when I cracked my RB25DE it had much larger oil restrictors than any DET I’ve ever opened before, very similar to RB30 spec. This could be an N/A feature (drivability/reliability or whatever) or maybe every DET engine I’ve ever opened has had the restrictors already changed in Japan but no one bothered with the N/A kid. Could be why you’re having more trouble with you N1 setup than others? When you get the head off you should know for sure what it has, and if you are concerned about restricting the top end you could do it a limited amount like run 2x1 - 1.25mm which would give some redundancy still being a shitload better than 2x ~1.8's. Depends if it’s worth the gamble of maybe having to crack it again and maybe block one down the track. Either way, the way I see it your pump is flowing more than standard so it at least needs to be brought back to factory specs, but those specifications are for maintained low rpm / street rpm lets say an average of ~2500rpm (with known over oiling issues at high rpm standard), your car probably has an average of ~4500rpm(?) so it would make sense to restrict it further imo.

Its a mass air flow meter, pressure has no effect. Also both N/A and Turbo AFM's only measure atmospheric pressure as they are placed before the turbo (aka out of boost), but putting them in boost makes no difference as 500CFM @ +14psi travelling at x speed is the same as 500CFM @ ATMO travelling at 2xX speed (for example). Its all about the voltage range (which is the same between the 2 items), if his AFM is healthy it shouldn’t make any difference. It still wouldn’t hurt to swap it with another though as it still could be the cause, it could be because the AFM was already faulty and miss-reading, and the increased airflow is throwing it out more and more. That said, my money is definitely on some sort of boost leak or R&R issue. I once had a similar issue with an RB30e+t, couldn’t find the leak so I moved the AFM into boost as close to the throttle body as possible and it fixed the symptoms (though still slightly down on power as the turbo had to work twice as hard to produce the same boost) at least until I could find the cause. What BOV are you using? Plumb back? I've known some ATMO's to leak boost and cause similar issues.

What about suspension/brakes? The stuff covered hasn’t really reached 8k! CES turbo back mild steel exhaust (good flow, good sound - no drone on auto) Return flow FMIC Stock air box with highflow dry type panel filter (like Apexi item from eBay or similar) Splitfire coil packs or similar (it’s inevitable that yours will fail esp with higher boost, unless its already got them good to source when you have the money) Electronic boost controller, I like the gizzmo's because they're cheap and work well - profec b or AVCR (but check with your tuner first, a lot hate the AVCR's) Nistune ECU -(can usually get these tuned and fitted for ~ $1000) Decent brake pads and either new solid or (if heaps of meat) freshly machined rotors. Aftermarket sway bars That’s only ~ $5-5.5k On top of that, I would get it fully serviced - quality synthetic oil, new spark plugs with the coilpacks, check that it's had the 100thou service if not - do that + service tranny, change fluids in diff. Check all the bushes and replaces as necessary, everything properly aligned, replace shocks with genuine factory items (eBay UK) if required etc. That should allow for the extra bits/labour, and you'll have a factory tight car with up around 200kW at the wheels of reliable power, you'll be able to turn and stop but retain streetable comforts (which I assumed you’d want since its an automatic 4 door).

haha no worries, cheers. I only beat its lap time in my R33 by 1 second and thats with better lines so it does get along alright.

doh, no worries ta

Hey all, The time has come to sell my beloved Ti... It's an R31 Skyline Ti with an RB25DET (which has been rebuilt in aus, cant remember how many km but it wasn’t much - only just fitted with brand new excedy HD clutch). These are factory auto, I converted it with the old engine using an RB20DET gearbox and a freshly reconditioned tail shaft (tight). It has an over shimmed LSD (which has never opened, so call it 'locked') full Nolethane bushes just fit throughout the car (500km ago), its incredibly low with Whiteline springs that have had the progression 'removed', normal healthy shocks, Whiteline HD front and rear sway bars and strut brace so it handles pretty well but there isn’t much travel ... It has S3 hotplates, a genuine MOMO ~ 280-300mm(?) steering wheel and genuine 80's spec BBS wheels (16x7), something like 10% tint all around. Car is pretty straight, there is not accident damage but a couple dints here and there, paint is in pretty bad condition with the typical Nissan metallic fade over the bonnet roof and boot, and it is missing the chrome strip ont he rear bumper. Would be an ideal drifter, or a really good street car with a bit of love (and maybe some higher springs...). It has new tyres, new brake pads... Engine has Splitfire coil packs, factory R33 piping and SMIC, Drift manual boost controller but runs stock boost (never had the chance to wind it up (need gauge/timing light),full mandrel 3" turbo back (inc dump) de-cat exhaust, I think a 3L stainless surge tank with a Bosch 044 external fuel pump, 55mm alloy radiator with electric thermo fan, 500ml generic plub back catch can. Has the blue velour interior in pretty good condition, car doesn’t have any major issues just a couple minor wiring gremlins – It has a Kenwood CD player that keeps blowing the audio fuse but I’ve never bothered to fix it since it’s not a priority, atm the tacho doesn’t work as it needs the inline resister as per R31 skyline club guide, also the Speedo drops in and out which is a recent issue – probably just the wiring under gearbox. Comes with a couple bits, brand new DBA4000 slotted/cross drilled rotors, leftover Nolethane bushes, some other random R31 parts (R31 std. LSD (worn but good if you don’t want it locked), rear struts w/stock springs, dash bits whatever you want). Not really sure what its worth, asking $4,300 registered atm - its worth more than that in parts excluding the amount of time I've put into it, but after a quick sale so I am negotiable. (Will sell for ~ $500 less without rims, less again if you dont want it registered as its about to lapse) Some pictures attached, should get more/better ones soon, you can see the fade in the pictures of it on the track. This is a video to hear and see how healthy it is (and the catch can setup):

Whenever, I'm sort of living off credit until pay day, can i grab it next ~ Wednesday after work, PM me your address?

Sorry I didnt reply earlier, holding out until payday - so no more RB20 ECUs?

And i'd go the other 2

Hey mate, dont suppose you have a spare ECU? Even to borrow with cash deposit?

I'd definitely run a thinner HG and deck the block if possible instead of shaving the head as it yields both better quench and reduced combustion temps due to less heat soak on compression stroke (as I was once told by an old mechanical engineer when building my N/A). Do you have adjustable intake and exhaust cam gears? An issue I has with shaving/thin HG was throwing the cam timing out a few degrees, which shifted power more than you would expect, 2 gears adjusted on the dyno afterwards would be quite useful for getting delivery and the best peak power/torque figures where you want them. wer/torque figures where you want them.

I'll buy the wing

Yeah, I'm out Austin's Ferry way so that'd be me. It was about 140kW standard, ~ 150kW on 10psi pre-tune.

Yeah heaps , though I can still take victory as its my car . Its a pretty much standard R34 (stock intake/exhaust/internals), slightly lowered (Tien S-tek springs), nistune ECU @ 175kW, RDA gold slotted/dimpled rotors and EBC greens.

^Trying not to lose to a woman