SKiT_R31

PM'd

I've got one you can have.

Hey, I'm after an RB20DET ecu to buy or borrow just to test in my car. Ta, -Dan

Quoted for truth . Also only body work is to cut holes if using factory side mount (which is easy since the body moulding already reflects the locations, If you pre-empts with a FMIC it means you only cut one hole so car is neater). You just lose out on dual stage boost on the N/A loom, so run a boost controller if you want more than 5-6psi.

Just adding my 2c more for clarification as I have been seriously considering the GT-RS for a while now. People saying the GCG highflows are comparable...? From sheets in the RB25 thread, the GT-RS seems to be pretty comfortable at full boost by ~ 3000rpm (for average of 240kW ~16psi), I put a GCG OP6 highflow (though it was journal bearing, but most are) on a mates R33 and it doesn’t see full boost until roughly 4000rpm. It makes a great figure and holds boost (260kW @ 18PSI) but that's just 1000rpm too late for an aggressive streeter imo; or is the comparison more for R33 highflow jobbies (which are also ~ 230-240)?

Its AWD, the slip light means its enabling FWD because it thinks the rear is losing traction. The pull to the left could be torque steer? Check the yuor front/rear and side to side tyres are the same dimensions and your wheels are aligned correctly.

Uhk cool, I saw them but wasnt sure since they're based in margate and I'm in Austins Ferry, I'll give them a call.

Hey all, I have built an RB30DET and put it in my girlfriends S13; I was intending to use the factory tensioner and idler locations (with 2 tensioners and 150 tooth belt) but upon test cranking it tries to skip teeth (and tightening it further causes self clearance issues...). I'm happy to pay the going rate for your services, just need a hole drilled and a thread tapped, sometime on the weekend if possible? The engine IS in the car but I have removed the bumper/cooler/radiator support so it shouldn't be an issue, but at worst I have a hoist and can lift it off the mounts. I would do it myself but the I do not have the equipment and It's probably not a good idea for a first time drill and tap to be done on something as critical as a timing belt tensioner . Cheers, PM me or Post for interest -Dan

Tuner's choice man, there are are few threads on these forums with Nistune vs. PFC, I'd probably go PFC for R33 since they're quite cheap these days; most tuners are happy with them and they are the easiest to install without losing vct or modifying loom for Z32. I have a Nistune on my R34, they will both make the same power at the end of the day.

Yeah just saw all that, a lot of the information on the internet is just re-preached 'yarns' without any understanding, but this is not one of them. Even with the stock dump/front pipe (2.5") a 3" cat back gives a very decent gain over a 2.5" system across the entire rev range (initial spool time, midrange AND peak power). I used to agree with your point of view, thinking my N/A+T's would love 2.5" on 200kW+ (my goal), that if it can flow the power its good enough, but it really isn’t. There is so much free power just through efficiency that you are losing out on from stock exhaust. My R31 RB30e+t, R33 RB25DE+T both went from 2.5" systems (one press, one mandrel) with straight through perforated hot dogs and mufflers (not offset or chambered) and both had excellent gains in throttle response, delivery, just general engine feel and top end (not just the figure) with zero downside (even exhaust was roughly the same volume). The car of course will drive well and will make decent power on 2.5", but the point is it will be better the entire range and make more power on 3". As the thread reports it is nothing like with matching N/A systems with exhaust velocity and backpressure trade offs (losing top or bottom end). Another example is my daily, an R34 GTT - completely standard with nistune and 10psi gets 175kW at the wheels. I loaded the same tune onto a mates R34 which was identical (completely standard engine/cooler) on the same boost but with a 3" split dump, 3" cat and 3" cat back and it made 195kW at the wheels, completely different to drive; 1000x better in every way (except I like my daily silent). Because of this I am forced to eventually get a CES turbo back system, not just for peak figure but for the entire drivable range. You really can’t understand until you do it for yourself, now you have a 2.5" system that’s fine. Do all your other modifications, hit the bottle neck (and realise it’s the obvious next step for more power) and then move on, but the debate just seems to be for self justification more than anything (not meaning to be an asshole its just how I see it).

Related which just cropped up is this; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/369171-turbo-exhaust-theory/ Really good read imo.

Why 2.5"? Even on stock dump/front I had a noticeable power increase going from 2.5" to 3" on my NA+T (felt looser/less held back and picked up top end) Also 3" bell mouth dump is only $100 which I would also recommend, high comp has lots of hot exhaust to vent! Either way, keen for results

Mine runs fine like that (and has done for 20thou km), but if you are feeding it too much oil it would make sense that it would need a more serious drain. Next time you have it off have a look at your bango bolt, it should have a pin sized hole in it (not completely hollow).

Before wasting your money just get a multimeter and test resistance between points, its not required.

If the label is green its an S1, if the label is Pink its an S2. 1995 is probably series 1.5 which is a series 1 chassis and series 2 engine. Cheers, -Dan

Were you running an oil restricter on yuor turbo feed line?

Thats right, just change the ECU and run your N/A loom and sensors (coil packs/ignitor/AFM).

If both mandrel, 2 x 2.25 inches is equivalent to 3.1 inches (4926mm2 vs. 4536mm2 of the 3.0") and 2 x 2.5 inches is equivalent to 3.55 inches (6434mm2 vs. 6082mm2 of the 3.5") So in both cases they are slightly larger than the single pipe (providing you keep them mandrel and not press bent), but could cost more and weigh more so probably only useful if you want to have twin side pipes or are after the different sound .

I'd believe that, I dropped Cyl #1 and shat an oil pump within a couple minutes at high rpm. Though your Billet crank collar and Nitto pump would definitely help!

Hey All, I dont mean to be a dick posting this in N/A (and will understand if its deleted) but otherwise probably will get buried in FS section. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/366855-fs-rb30de/ Engine was originally Dondesoto's and still holds the fastest N/A <3L salt flat speed record in Australia but it performs a lot better now. Cheers, -Dan

Hey all, The time has come to sell my favourite motor, I love it to bits but its time to move on (getting into drifting, have an RB25DET lined up). The good; Rebuilt RB30e bottom end with RB25DE pistons and RB25DET oil pump (ACL rings and bearings, about 50,000km old). Head is R33 RB25DET with VCT adapted running 255/8.3 surecam reground cams and Greddy adjustable exhaust cam gear. Intake manifold is factory RB25DET with twin 60mm throttle bodies Exhaust headers are stainless Fujitsubo Jasma large primary for RB25DE (roughly matched for peak power of current motor) Flywheel is Billet Lightweight and clutch is VLT standard. The Bad; Engine is sad, something wrong in the top end (I think perhaps bent valve) blows a little bit of blue smoke on rev down and has a bit of a rattle Also engine loves to rev and used to run an RB26DETT oil pump but cracked it (RB30e harmonics) I would recommend fitting a billet crank collar while engine is out. Also clutch does struggle with the power (slips on gear change) would be wise to upgrade while engine is out. This is ideal for someone keen to build one for themselves (save a fair bit of money), the bottom end is fine just needs a bit of work on the head, quoted $500 for a couple new valves, new stem seals fitted (which I can include) and a machine. As all the hard work is done (head modifications, new tensioner location etc). Engine made 151kW at 6000rpm (peak torque at 5000rpm) with 2.25" press bent exhaust and stock headers on factor RB25DEt ECU and Injectors. Fitted 3" mandrel system and Fujitsubo headers (Which have 3" outlet) and it picked up heaps of top end, never had it back on the dyno but ran a 14.28 1/4 mile in a 1400kg+ car (R31 Ti) on factory street rims (15" & 205s). If you were to put aftermarket management on this (haltec/microtec) and just run the TB's open (though it down include y) intake pipe the response would be great and there would be a pretty decent power increase (from tune) imo. Price might seem high or low, I don’t know what its worth but splitting just head headers/cams/intake/flywheel I could get make more than that (but don’t particularly want to wreck the motor, otherwise I might fix head and decomp it then turbo but would be a shame). Happy to post at buyer expense. $1000 firm Video on its last outing; Pics attached.

The stock rods will be fine, deck the block 1mm and your onto a winner, though expect the compression ratio to be around 12:1. That should be fine on 98ron with management (esp running MAP), but if you intend to turbo it in the future I'd be using factory turbo pistons (with the block decked) should still have good N/A power but still capable of N/A + T.

no, sort of came out wrong, I mean with datalogging and real time cell selection with wideband output. read this guy; http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/files/nissan_ecu_tuning_basics.pdf There is heaps of info here; http://www.nistune.com/support-documentation-general.php Some good reads .

I did the cam in my old RB30et wagon and just gave the lifters a clean, never had any lifter noise or issues, but i hear its recommended. While the car is N/A you could give it a home tune and sneak a few extra ponies, low risk and better economy. With a supported wideband O2 you could get it to tune its self to some decent WOT mixtures...

As odd as it may sound, results the R31 boys have found is that a 'chip' from dark half for example actually loses a bit of top end power (so your kW number) but give a bit more beans down low and mid. Results which were also proven by a mate of mine who had a 110kW RB30 (fresh rebuild) with just the 20 degree's ign mod (+gts headers/exhaust & enclosed pod), dark half chipped it and he got 105, then 65mm TB'd it and still got 108. Overlaying the graphs, even allowing for Dyno fluctuation it was pretty clear that the dark half had great mid range but power dropped off earlier, and the fuel mixtures weren’t really any better than standard (which is to be expected from a mail order tune, just for safety). He gave up and threw a KKR480 + eBay manifold on it and a microtech lt8 tuned by PA, makes like 170kW on 8psi with 12.5:1 AFR, reliable, economical and safe as pie (quite underpowered imo but still pretty quick with its 4.11's and it was early days with tuner too scared to run high boost on unopened N/A + T even though it drove in on 12psi/165kW with limp-home-tune). If you nistuned it yourself you'd net a bit more power and way better economy as you could lean the mixtures more ideally to suit N/A application (like ~ 13.2 at low throttle/airflow & ~ 12.5:1 at WOT) since RB30's rely heavily on thier airflow table at light throttle rather than 02 sensor like the twin cams, this is where the difference in economy generally comes from. Nistuning it is also future proofing for turbo, you can just plug it into a laptop and change AFM/injectors with the click of a button, even more appropriate cam maps (like for GTS2 spec). I honestly wouldn’t bother twin camming, a good tune will negate most benefits, a mild cam will pick the revs up and a turbo will bring on the power. Nistune $500, Cam $200 (and 2 hours tops) then down the track, factory vlt injectors, vlt manifold, vlt turbo and front pipe, rb25 bottom dump (will bolt straight up to front pipe and to your exhaust) and bam, ~ 165kW on 10-12psi like every other RB30e+t and cheap as chips. Tune will push it up to ~ 180-200 where you might hit airflow meter limit which is easily fixed by Z32 as they use the same plug! /wall of text yarn