SKiT_R31

Why dont you just turbo the RB20e? RB30ET injectors, turbo manifold, RB25DET turbo, stock R33/R34 SMIC and piping, darkfalf chip ($100, he's be happy to post to S-A) I reckon you could squeeze 150 odd out of it...

I need an RB20 wiring loom, or just the front injector harness...

Do they come with those tyres? If so, what tread/brand and dimensions? Cheers

Hey All, I'm keen to finish off an engine conversion this weekend and have found that the wiring loom is missing part of the injector loom, I don’t suppose any one has a scrapped loom somewhere, or this part (possibly removed after injector upgrade...?). Anything would be greatly appreciated, Thanks, -Dan

It'll pretty much have to be 4/5x114.3 multistud to get a good offset, maybe checkout nissansilvia.com

I would have thaught it would spit the dipstick before doing any other damage...

Assuming you are talking about an emanage blue, get an SAFC as they have more adjustment. + or -20% just isn’t enough (my safc is -35% up top on only 10psi) plus only has 5 adjustment points + I'm not sure about high and low throttle position adjustment (which safc has and you do need) as the emanage doesn’t seem to mention it... If you have the optional ignition, injections, boost sensor harnesses the emanage definitely becomes more capable, but out of the box the safc is a much easier choice sine it is self contained, has multiple points adjustment at high and low throttle, afm emulation and same idle control for anti-stall as emanage but doesn’t require a laptop to tune. Once you purchased all the add-ins for the emanage plus the extra to tune it all, you’d realise you’d have been better off with a nistune or similar... I think that is why everyone goes with safc2 (or AFC neo) instead of emanage Also, don’t bother with actuator change; just get a turbotech ball valve MBC for ~ $30 off eBay, quicker spool, steady boost with no spikes or sagging.

Keen on radiator pending location, cheers.

A healthy bottom end? Or just an rb25 block?

Probably the wrong section, but I wouldn't want it leaner than ~ 12:1 (somewhere around the 11's at full boost probably). Boosted cars handle richer mixtures better, and require more fuel to cool/slow combustion. I'd leave it upto your tuner but ideally before you play around with it get onto an EGT sensor, otherwise you're really tuning blind and are going to have to tune conservative & rich to play it safe.

yup, saaaaaaaaaaaaaaaammmme

Drain the oil and check for sparkles.

Nah your right, its shit. Its actually softer than the stock gear + far too low (so scrubs on the guard) and bump stop happy. new thread; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/358162-suspension-for-a-street-r34-gtt/

Hey all, I recently put some Tein S Tech springs (http://www.tein.com/products/s_tech.html) into my otherwise standard R34 GTT Sedan (apart from 175kW atw with nistune on 10psi EBC), simply for aesthetics as it sat waay too high. The lower 46mm in the front and 35mm in the back, the car sits nice and level and looks respectable (almost what it should look like standard imo). OK, problems; Almost straight away it was obvious that the shocks weren’t up to it, felt like riding with choppies (you could feel the spring, but apart from no double bounce you couldn’t really feel any shock absorption, if that makes sense). So if anyone can recommend a good shock absorber to suit, something firm but comfortable (but the car is a daily, I have another car for track) and where i can get it that would be fantastic. Next is rear camber, its quite visibly obvious that they are way out, and it has definitely having more issues with traction. On top of that the rear bounces and clunks on traction loss (and i can replicate the banging by just popping the cutch without throttle in gear, is it bushes??). I know i need some sort of rear camber adjustment, but is that all, or could rear toe be out as well? Next is front, visibly its fine but steering is lacking, lost front end grip - loves to understeer even a sweeping corner at a tame speed. Idea's? Just want it perfect for street, I'll be upgrading sway bars too - also not sure which option is ideal... http://www.whiteline.com.au/do_segue.php?make=Nissan&model=Skyline&vehicle=R34+GTS,+GTS-T+2WD+11/98-04 I'm pretty cluey with engine mechanics, just never cottoned on to suspension apart from the basic's... Cheers, -Dan

Here's a pic the missus took;

It was just an issue with fuel surging on spin out (as they didn't get time to fit the surge tank), was just playing it safe towing it off for a cool down and a check over. Engine was run in on the dyno before the day.

I did it on the weekend, rears are the same, front sits about an inch lower, springs are the same.

This is really common on RB30's, I've had 2 cranks with slogged out keyways. I just sand/gently file any ridge/warping then use some locktite liquid metal (it actual says for keyway repair on the tube) stick the keyway in and let it set, slip on the balancer and torque the bolt to a tasty 500nm (aka as hard as you can). $12 fixed. Did this on my RB30DE which revs fast and high frequently (hi comp, cammed, short geared, lightened and balanced) and it has never had a problem.

Hey all, This weekend I put some Tein S Tech springs in my R34 GTT (sedan) to bring it down to a more reasonable road height without making it uncomfortable. Anyway, I've decided the shocks aren’t cutting it they don’t double bounce or anything but definitely feel doughy - that just-chopped-out-2-coils spring feel. Anyway I've got some low KM factory R33 GTR shocks in storage (collected from a different car) which from memory looked the same (rear fork, shortish front shock etc). Does anyone know if these will bolt in (looks like they will, but I'd hate to dig them out of storage to find they either don’t bolt in, or the dimensions are different and they jack the front up an inch or something ). Also, are they worth it (i.e. are they any good) or do they just carry the sticker? Cheers heaps, -Dan

Hey all, Wiring up my RB30DET (with rb25de head), baught an RB20DET wiring loom but one of the plugs on the coilpack loom is smhashed and unusable, and its missing 3 of the injector plugs, the ones that go up front that just plug in. both of these things would fit in a post bag, and unplug (so dont want cut), greaful to anyone that can help. Would settle for full loom, but prefer damaged (providing those bits are OK) since budget is low. Cheers, -Dan

auto or manual?

haha, well yes an no. You wouldnt sook about your powerhouse being thirsty, but when your slower than rolla's it can get a bit rough. More power/smoother delivery + way better economy for <$500 is a good option imo.

Ditto, heaps better - halved the revs and just rode the boost torque . I'd be checking/replacing your O2 sensor as a minimum, then get an SAFC and get it tuned to like 13:1 low throttle (<~40%), 12.5:1 heavy throttle and run 98ron (but even tuned to 12 will be huge improvement if your shy). Find a tuner that will do it, I used to run 12.5:1 fuel mixtures on an N/A+T, those on an N/A should handle it fine. To move an N/A skyline anywhere above walking pace will load up the engine enough to push it out of closed loop, which means 11 down to 10:1 fuel mixtures (I had/have an afr gauge, its disgusting to watch) so a tune will give about 15-20% better city economy. Then there's highway/cruise (when your maintaining speed), with a functioning O2 sensor your mixtures ramble between 14:1 & 15:1 but without it the best you'll see is 12's. With mine unplugged it pretty much just sits in the 10's and 11's, even at idle... Those things, bit of a $ outlay but totally worth it (and you'll pickup smoother delivery and some torque down low and at part throttle). As for legalities for P Platers, just don’t have it on display...