SKiT_R31

Some bigger disc's would be good, but then you'd probably need to up to 18" rims(?). For what he wants it for I reckon R34 GT-T should keep him out of trouble.

I saw this the other day when in GT, cage looks the goods. As for brakes I'd go std R34 GTT with fresh 'rebuilt' callipers (new seals etc) with braided lines, plain (or slotted, but never drilled) fresh rotor with Ferodo DS3000 pads and some decent fluid like Motul RBF 600. Pretty much exactly what I'll do on my R34 (cept maybe with a more streetable pad) Oh, and a line locker may come in handy Good build, can’t wait till it’s done!

Unless you have an immac tidy setup & have excess money OR are already chummy with Kutz, as a random off the street you'd be far better off at GT. Summers is a top bloke, does exactly what you want and does it well for a decent price. Won’t turn his nose up at backyard jobs and doesn’t have a superiority complex like certain other tuners seem to... He also isnt scared to push a car a bit closer to the limits it was built to handle (on request). I’ve only ever had and heard of good experiences, which I definitely couldn’t say about many other places in TAS… *zips up flame suit, rests back and cracks open a can*

Is that only chassis loom, or engine loom as well?

You can hear pinging, like a quick flick of a tin can, or if it’s bad like a marble in a tin can... You can get knock warning devices, you can see your knock reading on SAFC and some after market management. The ecu also monitor's knock so you can feel it drop power/hesitate as well (providing all your sensors are connected and functioning). The stock radiator/engine fan is called a clutch fan, in older age they tend to seize on a bit, make your car sound a bit like a falcon or hilux (windy revs) and steal a bit of power. You do need some sort of fan for your radiator, a good replacement is a temperature controlled electronic thermo fan, I have these on all my cars (inc twins behind a FMIC and a single 7” behind my R34 SMIC). They are noisy when they are on, but the motor is happier & quieter - plus I have lost 2 radiators and one water pump to seizing clutch fans in the past.

I used to run my RB25DE on E10 95ron with advanced timing, never had any detonation (n matter how far I advanced the timing) used to run fine. Would probably be OK on 91 with standard timing, but E10 95 is just as cheap and it's worth running the higher ignition timing for that little extra grunt. I actually felt the tiniest drop in performance switching to BP98 before adding a turbo, but have no figures to back it up (just felt less responsive).

(Stolen from calais turbo, for future reference)

Hey mate, keen on the T306 timing belt. I'll give you $30 inc post if you can put it in an express bag tomorrow for the weekend? I can DD the money and send recpeipt (though it'l probably take ~24 hours for the $$ to clear pending your bank...) Cheers, -Dan

Thanks, but both of those are actually for the T307 151 tooth belt. It turns out that the belt I was after, funnily enough - had the part number: T306.... Cheers

1. Put an RB30e in it . 2. Get an engraver and illegally change the 3 to a 2 (no one would know..) 3. tell transport the new engine number 4 ???? 5. profit. (or skids) Else option3

I don’t know anything about CA18's, BUT just tap straight into the stock locations...? If it doesn’t have the factory feed lines (which btw are you 100% sure it doesn’t?) just do the typical N/A+T trick that everyone does on random car's, T piece into the oil pressure sender for the oil feed, and drill any where random for the oil return. Only rule's are the return must be below the turbo and never go against gravity, has to be in a low pressure zone above the oil line. Some times you can get away with tapping straight into the sump, other times it has to be a bit higher (just know where the oil level in your sump is, it's usually pretty clear to nut out. Some people even simply remove the dipstick and drain straight into that hole... As for water lines, its pretty much easy street - probably why it’s not mentioned. Just find any random water line on the engine to tap into and re-route, I bypassed my plenum and throttle body and just ran the waterlines in & out from that. Make sure you run good quality thick hot-weight fully synthetic oil, also might be a good idea to get an oil cooler but it’s your call. Happy boosting

Hey all, I've build an RB30DET for the ‘lols’ (to replace RB30ET as head & SOHC wiring were damaged). I am using the stock tensioner & idler locations, with 2 tensioners (I am not drilling another tensioner so don’t bother saying it), I've test fitted the 151 tooth (part T307) from my other RB25/30 (which does have tensioner drilled) and its not quite tight enough for me to trust (but works fine), a comfortable tension causes clearance issues (by like 0.1mm), I reckon less 1 tooth should sort this out. Has anyone else done this, and can they let me know the part number? Cheers, -Dan

Yeah sure did, but the car it is for is currently out of action. ta

Yeah I know what you mean, I replaced the head on a mates RB25DET because it blew the gasket (well so I thought), but in actual fact the coolant channel had corroded into the combustion chamber couple cylinders (just on the edge of the gasket)... The older crowd that push the old 8's to the limits are the most known with these issues, just keep going through blocks until one sticks. But yeah, as long as you have a good block to start with it wont be an issue - while x raying is the safest option, you should be able to tell the condition of the block just by looking at the visible parts, if there is obvious signs or corrosion, then give that extra 60cc a miss...

Well 40thou is the norm, I personally know people who have gone custom 60thou, and I have seen 80thou RB26 pistons for sale before (which you would need for RB26 crank) but have no experience with them of course. link; http://www.trust-power.com/06new/e2004_09/041101_greddy.html Thin cyl walls are never a good idea for high power FI, but I doubt it would be an issue for a well made N/A. Problem with this is you would need custom pistons (probably RB25DE dome with RB26 pin height) or you would lose any capacity benefit due to compression loss. Anyway, off topic.

I'm not realyl sure thats possible with just an over bore... You'd have to go about 80thou oversize and fit an RB26 crank... (for 2690cc)

But an AWD magna is going to be automatic, which is fail. The FWD ones are lighter and faster anyway, and I too have seen N/A Magna’s pull over 140kW at the wheels and run mid 14 second 1/4's with basic mods (intake/exhaust) (talking the 3.5L manual). However I am a massive hater of FWD, so thats the end of anything condoning it from me . Also as for the V8 argument, too many people have the mindset "oh its a V8 its going to be fast". They are not, they are hopeless off the line. Auto/Manual, LS1/LS2, SV8, SS, Sedan, Ute and the older Monaro’s are all useless. As are most XR8 utes and sedans, I'm talking new cars in stock or basic (exhaust) form. I've driven them all and they are crap, usually incredibly heavy and have stupidly tall gearing. The LS1 is the worst, bogs down heavy then hits the limiter just as it starts to wind up, they are no good, the V6 versions of most falcadores beat them to 80-100kmph "at the lights", or AT LEAST don’t have enough to pull away before the "drag lane" ends. Should probably wear a flame suit, but I'm sorry kids, that is how it is. I'm not an 8 hater, and with some shorter gearing, a retune and an incredibly aggressive launch in a manual, they do haul ass, but standard they are a big disappointment. They do manage a good burnout though, until the diff lets go... The N/A supra would walk away from most falcadore 8's in stock form 0-100 and is definitely what you should get if your only care is the traffic light grand prix, and just raw accel. They also have a pretty decent delivery (in manual form) so are bearable to drive (nice pull up top). However, I would still go the S15.

If you replace the motor with an N/A, the turbo loom will work fine, you just need to run an N/A ecu, everything else is the same (providing its the same series motor). I'm assuming your replacement DE will come with all of its bits, if it is a bare motor the only thing you will need is N/A 270cc injectors. Idle gear/afm/cas/coilpacks/o2/tps will all work fine, its just the same as putting an RB25DET ecu and injectors onto an N/A, but better as all of the extra bits that the N/A loom is missing (for turbo) you wont have to worry about (i.e. the N/A doesn’t have anything extra, the turbo does). To summarise, change the ECU, use the right injectors and it’ll work fine.

Its highly dependent on the driver, without an aggressive launch of course it’s going to bog down and lose the traffic light grand prix to 80/100kmph. Also remember we're talking about the Autech not a standard S15 (there is a big difference if you combine power and gearing). By all means, get whatever. I'm not a big fan of SR20's, they rev slow and feel unresponsive compared to the RB25, plus sound like balls (and sound is a big thing for me - I think I'd varex it) but I'd still have the S15 over the R34 if it had to be N/A. I'm talking from experience from driving SR20DE and SR20DET (SSS/S13&S14), but I've never driven the Autech S15.

How adjustible are they? i.e. how-low-can-you-go?

They already have 272's on the intake side; http://www.nissans15.com/spec.htm

^ That’s pretty much what I was trying to say. Funny story though, the best sounding exhaust I've heard on an RB was a mandrel 2" ID straight through system (with resonator and perforated glass fibre packed muffler). Car had a deep rumble at idle, and an incredibly responsive real "barky" rev, sounded incredibly tough just cruising at low rpm and screamed under throttle. The car made 108kW at the wheels on the dyno, not long after he fitted a press bent 2.5" system, sounded ratshit (raspy and cackly) and a larger TB, back on the dyno, 108kW at the wheels. He then turbo'd it, made 165kW at the wheels, put a mandrel 3" system on it and made 168kW at the wheels. Same dyno, and obviously power figures do fluctuate with humidity and air temperature, even with correction on, my point is really to show there was no difference as none of the pipes were actually posing a restriction. Comparing the before and after graphs, the line up perfectly. To drive the N/A the car from 2" to 2.5" was a rough change, its weird but it made the engine feel looser, but didn’t make it feel quicker, almost like it had less power (this would be from part throttle efficiency I’m guessing). The turbo 2.5" to 3" made no noticeable difference apart from a smoother and better note. I guess my point is, for the mild (almost un-noticeable) changes in drivability, as long as the exhaust can flow the power you are really only doing it for the sound you like, if he likes his sound then fair enough. Usually the power difference people notice from changing exhausts is from the more efficient mufflers, as most people wouldn’t really be restricting their systems with stock pipe diameter (and probably wouldn't be matching their power in the pipe efficiency range from either the stock or larger pipes).

Agree, and that's why the S15 is the best option imo, as all the usual mods are standard so you can’t get pinged for them. If you were to only change ecu with say a Type 4 nistune, they would never know, ditto for internal mods such as capacity overbore/stroke. You'll probably struggle to get a better power output from the RB25 than the S15 with only basic mods anyway (unless you want to up the CR, fit cams, etc), so even with passengers, a lighter starting weight is more ideal. Plus better economy .

Also, if you wanted to get a little serious and had some disposable cash you could 2.2L stroke it, plus if you look in the US there are ~160thou oversize sleeves and pistons... so you could square it at 90mm stroke and 90mm bore @ 2.3L, or I think you can get longer strokes, either way thats a 15% capacity boost and if that could net you ~10% more power you'd be in business. edit: though I do agree with zebra, but the smartest option isn't always the most fun, I’ve been off my p's for years (not that we had/have those laws in Tas anyway) and if I was in your situation, I know I would still do it, 3 years is a long time. I had a high performance car after 6 months of being licensed, and by first year I think I was a better driver than I am now (though yes did take more risks). *shrugs*

You would be best off with the Autech S15, far better power to weight, close ratio 6 speed etc. However all the mods are pretty much done for you, so apart from maybe management/dyno tune, you'll end up with ~ >100kw/tonne (120-125rwkW in 1200kg car). Above option will also be a fair bit better option legally as far as attention from the popo goes. That said there is an R34 for sale on here with similar CR and 128kW at the wheels, you lose the gearing and weight advantage, but it still wont be too slow, will sound better and is the cheaper option + better for passenger. I'd definitely go the S15 though (better resale if you don’t ruin it, less 'skyline hate', faster, better handling).