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Everything posted by GTaaargh
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Jaycar Boost Controller, Hand Controller, Fuel Adjuster Group Buy #2
GTaaargh replied to funkymonkey's topic in Group Buys
But I have 80mm AFMs. -
Jaycar Boost Controller, Hand Controller, Fuel Adjuster Group Buy #2
GTaaargh replied to funkymonkey's topic in Group Buys
Does anyone know these kits well enough to know whether the kit can help with my problem? My ECU has been modified. It doesn't go into Open loop until 4,000 rpm. Under light to moderate acceleration the engine runs lean until 4,000, but particularly around 3,000. I need to make the fuel mix richer under those load points, and the Jaycar kit looked good, but the notes in the article on the kit say the ECU will gradually move the fuel mix back to standard settings (ie the values in the ECU) if it is happening in Closed loop. If I'm doing light to moderate acceleration, am I in open or closed loop? Is the Jaycar likely to help? Otherwise it is likely to cost around $500 to get the mappings in the ECU changed. -
Hi. When I try to log in, I get a message POST requests from foreign hosts are not allowed. Any idea why? The only way I can get in reliably is by finding an old message in my email telling me I have a new private message. I click it and get to the private message area, then I can get to the forums. This happens under Firefox 0.9.1 and IE 6.0.2800. I have a personal firewall and run from behind an ADSL router. By the way, why the two login prompts on the front page?
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AFMs were cleaned by the competent mechanic. Prior to that I did a dyno run which has a nice rich (and uneconomical) mix all the way through. By the way, the dyno-dude said he couldn't adjust the tune because the ECU had been modified. If a dyno shop cannot adjust entries in the ECU, how can they adjust advance etc? That's probably a really dumb question, but I'm still learning.
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Yes. It appears to have different cams. It certainly feels 'lumpy' when it is idling. The turbo comes on strong early, which is apparently indicating that I have at least exhaust cams. Would different cams make it go lean?
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So, has anyone tried the Mobil 1 high performance oil filters? One came on my car when it was delivered from Japan. It had a sticker on it saying Mobil 1 M1-111, but I ordered some from the US and they look wider and higher. The one I wanted was a low profile one because my car has an oil cooler and the connector takes up precious space. The Australian Mobil dealers do not list them. They're only available from Japan and the US by the look of it.
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It was US$1700, it was an AES ECU, and it was this thread If you are seriously considering selling your PFC, let me know. The basic PowerFC would probably do me if it was the right price
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grrr car doesnt start now.. makes a ticking noise :(
GTaaargh replied to justin911's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Yep, that clicking generally means a flat battery. Blame the alarm if you haven't used it for a while. I do -
Since I received my new GTR from Japan I have had a flat spot between 2,000 and 4,000. It seems to be mostly around 3,000 rpm. The ECU has been modified by garage SAURUS. For some reason it will stay in closed loop until 4,000 rpm. I guess it is one of their tuning tricks - or maybe it's trying to keep the fuel economy reasonable. The turbos have certainly been upgraded, but I do not know what was done to them. I also get turbo surge at 3,200 rpm occasionally, but do not know if it is related to the flat spot issue. I know one of the oxygen sensors is slow. I hooked up a laptop and a PLMS adapter to the diagnostic port and noticed that one of the RB20 AFMs was at about 2 while the other was at 2.5 when it was going lean. A competent mechanic has looked at it and cannot find any air leaks. I strongly suspect that it is not just a badly set up car. Someone has spent a lot of money on good gear, and I do not believe he or she would have accepted changes that affected the drivability at road revs - especially if it was something as simple as the fuel map being modified by a company as prestigious as garage SAURUS. If I cannot find any other solution I will try getting the fuel map modified, but would really appreciate suggestions on what else might have gone wrong. I've put up another posting about modifying the fuel map.
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My R32 GTR has a standard ECU that has been modified by garage SAURUS. For one thing, it stays in closed loop until 4,000 rpm. It has a nasty flat spot between around 2,000 to 4,000. We hooked it up to a Lambda meter and took it for a drive. Each time I felt the flat spot problem the mechanic saw the air/fuel ratio go up to around 16 or 17:1. I thought about using the JAYCAR kit to modify the output of the AFM, but the construction notes say that there is no point modifying outputs for the loads when it is in closed loop. Then again, while I am accelerating lightly, I would have thought that I was not in closed loop. So, my questions: Will I be in closed loop if I am accelerating lightly? If so, is the JAYCAR kit likely to be able to make the fuel mix richer at set load points? If not, is reburning the EPROM with an upgraded fuel map my cheapest option? I'm also putting up a thread about the causes of the flat spot.
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Hi. Does anyone know if there are any registers of Skylines in Japan? I suspect my R32 GTR has been raced at some stage, and I would be interested in knowing how it went, previous owners etc. I'll bet others with Skylines would be interested in looking theirs up too. So, anyone know of any? Thanks, James
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High Pitched Squeal On RB20 GTST
GTaaargh replied to Drift Freak's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I used to use something called Kopr Kote on exhaust manifolds, or any place that was going to get really hot. Most studs would gradually weld themselves into place, but with Kopr Kote they were really easy to undo. I think it used to be available through Ampol distributors. -
Delivery times for parts from the US
GTaaargh replied to GTaaargh's topic in General Automotive Discussion
It's under negotiation..... -
Delivery times for parts from the US
GTaaargh replied to GTaaargh's topic in General Automotive Discussion
Sorry, I was a little unclear. I have now received the original delivery and the replacements. I complained after 8 weeks. The US company re-sent them. The original delivery arrived 4 days after I complained. The replacement delivery arrived another 4 days after that. In total, the original delivery took 9 weeks. The replacements took 8 days. I believe the original delivery took so long because they put some stupid sticker on it saying it could only be sent be surface transport (ie, it had to come by sea freight). I reckon this is an example of integrity by the company. As soon as I complained, they reshipped without question. It is also an example of stupidity, but lots of people do stupid things. Not many have the integrity to correct them without an argument. If you're interested, they are AutoZone. They have LOTS of stuff available at reasonable prices. I would recommend them (but I'd also recommend you specify air freight :aroused: ) -
Hmmm ... What do you think would be the consequences of getting oil in it, and not being able to drain it out? The setup doco I downloaded from the US HKS site only shows the left and centre ports on the top being connected to the external wastegate. There is nothing in any of the diagrams in the Japanese manual that shows port 4 being connected. Do you think maybe I am supposed to take the cap off occasionally and clean out any collected oil? Update: Ricky from mrcontrols.com says: It sounds reasonable, but some of the threads on oil bottles suggest there is likely to be oil vapour in the air. The air goes through the actuator. There is a good chance oil gets into the actuator too. Any thoughts?
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Delivery times for parts from the US
GTaaargh replied to GTaaargh's topic in General Automotive Discussion
Answer: It took 9 weeks, but that was because they put on a sticker saying "Surface Freight Only". I complained after 8 weeks, and they send them again. This time they came by air and took 8 days. Both arrived within 4 days of each other. -
Hi. My HKS EVC IV instructions say: Ports 1, 2 and 3 must face upwards with port number 4 facing down. The person who installed it into my GTR in Japan put it down flat under the pods. All ports are at the same level. Does anyone know why it MUST be vertical? Does anyone know of any side effects of having it flat? While I'm asking, does anyone know what port 4 does? Many thanks, James
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Hey - the least I can do is ask him. If he's as proud of his car as he should be, I'll bet he has a video or two.
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But are they noisy, and how many km would you do a year?
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Hi. I ordered some Mobil M1 oil filters from the US 8 weeks ago. They were shipped by Priority Post. They still haven't arrived. Any idea how long this sort of delivery should take? I was expecting 2 weeks or less. Thanks, James
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Importing Thieving
GTaaargh replied to Baz's topic in Importing, Compliance, Modification Laws & Regulations
Well, my R32 GTR came in fine. Stereo, speakers, Z32 AFMs, A pillar boost gauge, everything - and it sat in a Japanese storage for 8 months waiting to be shipped over. -
Has anyone had any long term experience with the pillow top shocks on Australian roads? My car came with Quantum shocks that are really noisy because the top bearings are worn. The local suspension shop suggested binning them and starting again because the metric bearings are really hard to get in Australia, and they would eventually wear and get noisy again. I could get them refurbished, but before making an expensive decision I would appreciate anyone's long term experience with them. Thanks.
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I've loaded it onto my web site, but it will take a little while to load - it's 2.3MB. I'll try to reduce the resolution etc to make it more 'download friendly' after I finish an assignment (due tomorrow). If you don't mind the size, it's at http://www.pcug.org.au/~jdeakins/images/8.....4sec%20GTR.jpg