mazgtr

Ive seen the add for that car at Autostyle for the last few months. As far as i know its still got a stock RB26, so with 450AWKW its gonna need a rebuild sooner rather than later. Prolly why the owner got rid of it after haveing some fun with it. One of the forum memebrs is selling his R32GTR in Carpoint.com, its got a fresh engine rebuild with strengthened internals and a big assed t04z, all for 34K. Good price IMO. Theres quite a few big turboed equipped GTR's running around on stock engines that are now up for sale before the owner has to invest in the engine... For 35K id want a fresh engined R32 GTR.....

A GTR with fresh pads, fluid and machined disks will pull up well.

Im sure on the label it says "1 bottle treats 2 tanks". I used to throw some in if i was doing a track day in my old Mazda GTR, just a little extra insurance...

LOL!!! Im sure my girlfriend would agree with you... Wow sounds like this is a great product, so where do i buy one??? (Sarcasm off)

If the cars "jumping" rather than simply breaking traction, id say its most likely your shocks/springs in the rear. Either the shocks are on their way out, or the spring rates are wrong. Perhaps a suspension shock could shed more light on it.

Its good to hear that im not the only owner out there then that babies their car a bit then. Im not a struggling uni student, but im no Bill Gates. I think one thing thats hard with owning something like a Skyline is the fact i find my heart and head are at constant loggerheads. Quite simply financially any "Performance" car is not a wise choice. Parts, Insurance, Thieves and the constant want to modify/improve something makes them an illogical choice, from my heads point of view. But when i think with my heart, my GTR's the best thing i own, and id go several weeks eating dog food if it meant i could afford modify it a certain way, or fix something!!! But regardless of my hearts desire to own something like a Skyline, every bill or little quirk that a performance turbo car generally attracts makes it just that little harder to justify, i guess... Clearly to own one of these cars it helps not to use your head... Cheers.

Thanks a lot guys for all your advice and thoughts...

King Dragon and K&N panel filters have a good reputation.

What situation are you talking about? Traction on the race track or drag strip? Race track, Bridgestone RE55's are a great option and stick like glue once up to temp. Me and my dad cut 4sec a lap from our time around Wakefeild race track with these tyres alone. Drag strip, Nitto Drag Extremes are the best street tyre for the strip IMO, as close to a slick as possible while still being a street legal tyre.

Wow a few questions, ill have a crack at a few... Jun oil pump is a good choice and shouldnt have any oil isues with useing it.. The stock water pump is a better choice for a GTR that will still see a lot of street use as it performs better at lower RPM. Greddy intake manifold will look pretty but will not effect power at the level your looking at. I have no experience with e-bay maniflods, but i would be a bit hesitant bolting an unknown quantity like that to my pride and joy GTR. If they do crack prematurely your looking at labour and replacement costs down the track, might be better to invest in proper HKS cast manifolds. A good hi-flow cat will almost match a de-cat pipe, and no risk of the massive fine for not running a cat. The R34 GTR turbos are a great option, and will make your target power goal, good choice. The Power FC is a must as soon as you stat trying to run bigger injecters and AFMs, will also give you the ability to fine tune your package, well worth it. The stockAFMS will be fine for now, only when you start getting up nearer 500BHP do they become a bit restrictive, but if you have a Power FC is an easer switch anyway. The SARD 680cc injecters should be fine for your target power goal, plus give a reasonable idel and a bit of room for more power down the track. I run a SARD FPR with my Sard 700cc injecters, good for balanceing and finetuneing the fuel system. The stock fuel pump will get you close to 300kw at the wheels, but its definatley worth upgradeing for peice of mind and future power. Yes a proper rewire of a new aftermarket pump will be a good choice. External oil cooler is also a great option for keeping engine happy, get a remote oil filter kit at the same time for much easier oil changes. Some sort of oil baffle kit is a wise investment as RB26DETT engines do suffer oil surge problems, especially if your planning to use it in any type of motorsport. I personally prefer the oil catch can to vent the vapour to atmosphere rather than pump it back into the inlet, it is illegal but better for the car. Hope that help a little bit. Cheers Matt

Just struggling a bit at the moment in terms of useing my GTR. Like many i really stretched to buy the damn thing, and it was a dream come true when i finally had my own. But just recently ive started to almost avoid driveing my GTR and am finding that when i do drive it, i spend more time stressing than enjoying it. The simple cost of parts and maintainance with these cars is very high, and i keep finding myself worrying about what might go wrong on the car evrytime i start it up. Now this isnt going to be an issue for anyone who has enough spare cash in the bank that an engine rebuild is simply a mild incconvenience, im interested in other younger owners out there and how or if they ever deal with similar feelings of apprehension towards useing their Skyline. Now this might seem silly to some, and many would just say if you cant afford to own it then you shouldnt of bought it in the first place, but as fellow car/Skyline enthusiasts im sure you would understand the thrill and joy of owning a car thats a bit special. Im not crying poor, and dont want sympathy, im just curious if other owners ever feel a bit intimidated by there Skyline and the costs involved with ownership, and wether this ever effects the ammount of use their car see's. Just struggling a bit at the moment and wanted some other owners thoughts.... Thanks guys...

I have seen a few custom boxes made up that enclose pod filters. Performance Metalcraft in Sydney have a made a couple. But any decent performance fabrication place could do it. It anint gonna be overly cheap though, id say $300-$400 depending on materials used. My R32 GTR came with twin K&N pods, ive been measureing it up to see if i can build something to cover them up and avoid a defect notice. Im not interested in how it looks, ive seen a few GTR's that use perspex to cover the pods, but this is more bling. One defect fine for pods would pay for your custom airbox though, and piece of mind.

My GTR came with a full 3.5inch system and 4.5inch straight thru cannon muffler that did nothing!!! You could hear the car comeing 3 miles away. It would of been close to 120Decibels!!! Before i got defected i decided i had to change mufflers, but i couldnt find a quiet internally 3.5inch muffler. So i had a custom 3inch straight thru sports muffler made up. Its about 3foot long and a foot and a half wide, its absolutley massive!!! I had it made with twin 2.5 inch tips so it looks stock from the oputside. It knocked 30decibels off the exhaust, and has made it far more liveable. On the down side it did cost me 4KW at the wheels, but its still worth it.

Nope, if you remove the fuse or fit a toggle switch your R32 GTR/GTS4 becomes 100% RWD. You also loose ABS while in 2WD mode. Dirt Garage sell the switch option in the group buys section. I bought one and fitted it, easy and works great. To switch between Atessa and RWD the car just needs to be stationary.

No from what ive seen thats a good power figure for this particular dyno. Ive seen a healthy stock R33 GTR struggle to make 140AWKW so it does read a little low. Generally a GTR with 2530's needs a few more PSI (3-4) to match mine on that dyno. But their much more responsive. Ive got an old dyno sheet from the previous owner with 360AWKW, but i dont know at what PSi, prolly about 20-22 pounds. Im happy with the added reliability i have "only" running 18PSI. I havnet yet found a situation where 330AWKW wasnt enough........ for now

GT-ZZ's???!!!! Are these the low awaited replacement for the 2530's? Yeah i allready have all the HKS Manifolds and Dump pipes for the 2540's, so in theory a change to a another HKS low mount combo should be a straight bolt on affair, give or take an oil feed or two. Prolly cheaper and easier than starting out with a whole new high mount setup. I do like twins aswell. I did think of either 2530's or the new GT-SS's, but i think the GT-SS's are a bit small for my power goal. Although laggy my 2540's still give me 330AWKW at 18PSI so i dont want any less power than this. The 2530's are starting to get a bit old IMO, but if theres a newer replacement for them comeing, i might have to wait and see how they go. The new HKS GT-Rs are the reaplcement for my 2540's but from the sounds of things they still dont live up to the hype and would prolly be as laggy as mine are now, with a bit more top end. Cheers guys...

Under the dash near your right knee is the fuse box. Remove cover and in the top left should be a fuse marked 4WD. Remove it, hey presto 2WD GTR.

Just bought and read the complete T04Z article in the latest HPI mag. Interested to see that the HKS T04Z comes in 3 different exhaust trim houseings, 0.61 - 0.81 -1.00. In the test they use the 0.81 option, and find it to be a bit laggy on a RB26DETT. It generates 420RWKW odd, at 1.4Bar, but the midrange wasnt great. Martin Donnon also noted that at the engines 8200RPM limit the turbo was still increasing power and so was a bit big for an internally stock GTR. Funny though, even with what they described as being a laggy option, the 0.81 T04Z was still more responsive than my HKS 2540's when i compared it with my dyno graph!!! Just wondering if anyone knows of the results achieved with the smaller more responsive 0.61 option. I wouldnt be looking for 450RWKW, high 300s at about 18-20PSI with good midrange is what im chaseing. Do Garret offer the different trim options? Is the only thing you can change is the 0.61 - 0.81 - 1.00 exhaust rim? Any thoughts experience would be appreciated.. Cheers

Doesnt work for me either...

Yeah you can start to run into ground clearance issues aswell once the exhaust pipe gets to big. 3.5inch is plenty for up to 400KW at the rear wheels.

The width of the tyre also makes a big difference, people often state that to increase grip you should fit a wider tyre, but thats not always true, your cars weight is simply spread over more surface area of tyre with a wider choice, a narrower tyre can actually provide more stability. Matching your cars gearing to the your tyres diameter is also very important. Genrally the samller the diameter wheel/tyre the better the acceleration, but lower the top speed. Tyre pressures also effect the cars grip, as does the friction co-efficient of the tyres rubber, the weight on each tyre and the force applied to them.

Why then when you fit a larger higher flowing aftermarket exhaust to a stock turbo car does the boost pressure rise? Or a less restrictive Intercooler can also see the car making more PSI without any other adjustment. My old Mazda GTR used to run 14PSI stock. With a 3inch exhaust and aftermarket Intercooler boost rose to 18PSi.... I know that most Intercoolers are measured on their ability not to allow pressure drop across the face of their core, i:e your feeding it 14PSI but its seeing 2-3PSI of pressure drop across its core due to restriction. A better flowing Intercooler would then see less restriction and a rise in PSI wouldnt it? I know power and PSI are not linked, just because you run 2.0Bar doesnt mean your going to make more power than a better setup car with 1.5Bar. Power is based on air-flow, the more air and fuel you can stuff into an engine and the quicker you can get it out is what effects power. The less restriction in the system, the more power you will make at lower PSI, but reducing the restrictions doesn't reduce boost pressure by itself. Also, even after you reduce every possible restriction within reason, you can still run high boost pressures to make power. If you took 2 GTR's one with a Garret and one with HKS turbo, for arguments sake lets say the HKS is more efficient at higher boost levels, then once both cars were removed of all possible restrictions that could be expected, the owners of said cars would start to wind up the wick on their turbo's to make the most of their "restriction free-er" setups. This is where a turbo that performs better at higher boost levels will make more power (provided its still within its efficiency curve) I dont know what HKS or Garret quote as their peak PSI, in know that most HKS turbo's are in the real meat of their power curve up to and approaching 2.0Bar. At the end of the day, once you do remove restrictions, you then would start to look at larger more powerfull turbo's and higher boost levels. I think you said in an earlier post "if someone says to me im running 2.0Bar, i say then you havent removed all the restrictions" Just look at Top fuel dragsters in the NHRA where money is no object and engines and support systems are just about the best power producers in motorsport, with power figures approaching 5000BHP. Where most races are decided by 1000th of seconds, every last BHP is gold, thus the engines/heads/cams/valves are all patiently labour intensivley poured over in the search for the higher possible flow, and yet these dragsters still run 40PSI. The most efficient way to make power is reduce restriction, but once thats been achieved then the most efficient power producing turbo is necessary, and when chaseing big power figures you need big turbo's, and big turbo's are usually most efficient at higher PSI levels than lesser turbo's. Simply if the cars on the dyno and your continueing to see power gains as you increase the PSI without sending inlet temps sky rocketing then the turbo's still being efficient and producing mor epower than heat, where-as a lesser developed turbo might start to trail off at similar boost levels. Personally im neither a Garret or HKS person.... Cheers. Matt

Can someone who attends be kind enough to post the times. Especially the Gibson GTR round Wakefield...

Yeah Duncans right, most of the aftermarket Attesa controllers simply adjust the speed and time front torque is apllied and when. I think the old HKS drag controller used to be able to "pre-load the front wheels, but this was only every intended for drag aplication IMO.

HKS turbo's have always had a reputation for being able to generate good numbers at very high boost pressures. Where others seem to run out of puff, most HKS turbo's seem to be right in the meat of their efficiency curve at levels up to and beyond 2.0Bar. Now unless your running C16/Avgas you might never need this ability to run such high boost, but if your after every last KW and are hunting for a Dyno-graph or Drag strip time to frame and put on your wall then HKS does seem to have that little bit more topend efficiency. Me, id rather buy the Garret and use the money i saved on alcohol and hookers... But thats just me....