mazgtr

I find it very hard to beleive a set of turbo's small enough to spool up as quick as GT-SS's would be able to make anything near 530RWHP at 20PSI.... Contradicts many other GTR's ive seen with N1'S, GT2530's, TDO5's and even GT2540's. All of which are bigger and laggier than GT-SS, but can flow a LOT more BHP.But none of which make anywhere near 530RWHP at ONLY 20PSI!!! Sounds like a very friendly dyno reading IMO...

Ok cheers. I tried JB-HIFI, SUPER-CHEAP AUTO and BUNNINGS, plus a few other shops and just got a lot of confused looks from the people who work there...

Would you like money in return for these seats? Posting a price is usually a good idea..

Everything ive read about the GT-SS points to a very very good turbo, as close to stock response as the stock turbo's as you can get. I beleive they're less laggy than even the N1's. Ive seen a GTR with these turbos plus the normal add-ons make 280KW at all 4wheels at about 18PSI. With 21PSI-22PSI you'd break 300KW. Id say for street and track, they're a very good option. just dont want more than 300KW down the road, cause there almost out of puff at this power figure. N1's are a bit more laggy, but will give you a little more power at similar boost levels. The N1's were designed by NISMO to be the best compromise between response and power for motorsport. Im sure they know what they were doing when they built it. Either would be a good option, personally id go the GT-SS's. Cheers.

I think the main difference would be in the stock tyres they each wear. The EVO's tyres are really semi-slicks, the stock R34GTR tyres are a bit more "Sporty" in comparison. Im sure Neal Bates for Motor Magazine did a 1:09 Wakefield in an EVO-9 Id say a bog stock R34 would be doing well to clock 1:12-1:13. With the same tyres as the EVO id say 1:10-1:11 ballpark. Im sure the EVO would be quicker round a small tight ciruit like Wakefield.

*************** Hey fellas, im in the process of doing this mod in my GTR. But i cant for the life of me find any thick enough electrical wire to run from the engine to the battery in the boot. Im looking for 4Gauge, but was just hopeing someone could throw me a couple of shops or numbers i should try, im in Sydney? Thanks a lot guys...

I got rid of my 4inch cannon HKS race muffler, for a custom 3inch straight through sports muffler. I had it custom made, its gotta be one of the biggest bodied mufflers going!! Id say 50cm x 35cm x 25cm, its 3inch straight thru, with twin 3inch tips. Knocked about 20-25 decibels off my GTR, Quick fit Mufflers made it up for me, took about a week..

HPI/ZOOM magazine did this with there silver R32 GTR running twin TD06'S. There tested the car on both a 4wd and rwd dyno, in both 4wd and rwd mode. I think the difference was about 4% less with 4wd on a GTR. Rwd to engine is about 80%. i:e your car makes 80kw at the rear wheels, its makeing about 100kw at the engine. On something like a WRX thats full time 4wd its about 35%. So a STI with 206kw at the engine will make about 130kw-140kw at the wheels. The GTR isnt fulltime 4wd, so the drivetrain losses arent the same as an Evo or Wrx. Id say 20% loss from engine to wheels in rear wheel figures. And 25% loss from engine to wheels in four wheel figures. So if you have a 300KW @ THE ENGINE GTR, In theory it would make 240KW at the rear wheels. And 225KW at all four wheels.... Cheers.

Still got the large sized battery cover box?

Both the filler plug/nut and drain plug/nut are notorious for being freakn hard to undo, as many have previously been done up with an air hammer. Make sure you've got a decent sized wrench/socket peice to get some leverage on it. Simple hand ratchet wont cut it...

Gday mate, any reason for the sale? Didnt you only buy this a little while ago? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=83856&hl= Do you have to get metal plates made up to bolt the cage to?

Gday mate, good luck with your sale. Just a quick question, with the seats out, do you think you could take a guess at the weight of one of those seats? Im looking at aftermarket seats for my GTR and just curious what kind of weight saving id be looking at. Cheers Matt

Yeah, mine is an aftermarket JVC head deck. You reckon the installer might of unplugged the clock and not reconnected it. Could be a good guess. I tried those 2 fuses marked "Electronic Parts", buggered if i know what they do, installing and removeing a fuse did nothing, as far as i could tell!!LOL!!!

I seem to remember a few owners were looking for one... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/RARE-Nissan-Skyline...1QQcmdZViewItem

Picked up my switch from PO BOX today, will let you know how i go with installation and results. Cheers. *Just fitted the switch this afternoon. Took me about 15-20min all up. I mounted the switch in the removeable panel that covers the fuses under the dash. The instructions are very clear, and it all went like clockwork. Looks very neat aswell. Ill give it the final test in the next few days, a quiet piece of road somewhere... Just a quick question. With the switch set to "ON" is the car in normal 4WD mode, or 2WD mode?

Did you try the 2 fuses marked "Electronic Parts" under the dash? I think there both 10Amp. I cant believe something as simple as a little clock could be such a pain in the ass!!! I might try and re-wire it into something else...

Sweet thanks. The only 2 that im not sure of are the 2x10amp "electronic parts" fuses. Other than that i might just have to give the clock a miss, bugs me though.. Hey Mark, you might have to make the clock the subject of your next in depth tutorial mate!!! Ps I decided to try and give a simple tutorial a go... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=117576 Cheers Matt

I wonder if i can simply buy a small battery powered LCD panel clock from somewhere and simply mount it in the same place...???

Id want them to be made out of 18k gold for that price mate...

Thanks that would be great.

My air-con climate control works, but i can never see what its doing as the display no longer works!!! lol!!! So im not sure if it resets.. Wow seems like a very common problem. Might have to have a think then... Cheers, Matt.

My dash clock doesnt work. After reading a few posts brought up by the search function its either the fuse or the wireing to the clock. Can someone please tell me which fuse affects the dash clock and where its located, what amps it is. Someone said theres a couple of fuses called "electronic parts" under the dash that are 10a fuses? Any help greatfull. Cheers.

Yes please...

This is very simple and basic for most, but not me. So i thought id share my experience at doing this myself tonight, so other non-mechanically minded people can have a go.. For this tutorial, front of the door means closest to the engine when doors closed. Back of door is closest to the boot when door is closed. Drivers Side. 2 screws at the front of the door midway up. Should be covered with little plastic circular covers, these pop off with a bit of force. 3 screws running along the bottom edge of the door from front to back. 1 screw in the little door handle cavity, also should be covered with little plastic tab. Now use a small flat head screw driver and slowly/gentley lever the power window black control unit up and out of its spot in the door. Once free, unplug the 2 plugs connected to it, and place somewhere safe. Now use that same small flat head screw driver and slowly/gentley lever the door catch release trim from around it, it then slides off and away from the actual door release handle/tab. Now go to the bottom back corner of the door and slowly apply force to the door trim until it pops away from the door. There are 4-5 little plastic pop clips that hold it in, all no higher up than half the door height. Once you feel the trim is loose and has started to come welll clear of the door, use an upward motion to lift the top of the door trim up and out of the door sill (inbetween the glass and door). It should lift up and away. Voila!!! Passenger side. 2 screws at the front of the door midway up. Should be covered with little plastic circular covers, these pop off with a bit of force. 3 screws running along the bottom edge of the door from front to back. 1 screw in the little door handle cavity, also should be covered with little plastic tab. Now just below the door handle (where the little black window switch is) theres a little tab hidden flush into the door trim. This needs to be popped out, to reveal another screw. This one is a bit of a bitch and is easy to drop behind the trim once you've undone it!!!! Now use that same small flat head screw driver and slowly gentley level the door catch realease trim from around it, it then slides off and away from the actual door realease handle/tab. Now go to the bottom back corner of the door and slowly apply force to the door trim until it pops away from the door. There are 4-5 little plastic pop clips that hold it in all now high up than half the door height. Once you feel the trim is loose and has started to come welll clear of the door, use an upward motion to lift the top of the door trim up and out of the door sill (inbetween the glass and door). Be carefull not to pull the door away straight away, as you need to reach in and down, to unplug the power window cable, its just a plastic white plug. Done!!! For both door trims i found the lever door release to be quite difficult to avoid fouling on while trying to pull the trim away. Putting it back on. Try and line it up so you can see the door release handle through the hole. Start from the top, and try and slide the top of the trim down and into the cavity between the glass and the actual door. Once it slides down and in, you might have to adjust it slightly front to rear or vice versa to get it lined up. Once again the door release handle is the bugger to get lined up and through the little hole for it. Once it all lines up , i quickly got 1 screw in so it didnt fall back off. Try and push the plastic clips back into their spots, and then start doing up screws!!! *Dont forget to replug in the passenger side power window plug!!! *Dont forget to plug both plugs back into the drivers side power window unit!!!! Also, the screw that hides under the little tab on the passenger side is a little bastard to get back in, make sure you've got a magnetised screw driver, otherwise you risk it dropping back in behind the trim, to rattle and annoy you till you take the door trim off again!!! Cheers Matthew

GT-RS's are the replacement for the 2540. Bigger and laggier than a 2530, but more top end...