Lithius

How hard is it to pull off the old turbo and put the new one on? I'm not exactly mechanically savvy (changing cat converter etc is about most i've done). It'd just be a pain to have to take my car down to a workshop on a trailer to get it done.

Hmm, if it's chasis damage (worst case scenario) then it could very well be irrepairable right? I've never heard of one wheel being set forward a little more than the other... would it be set forward as much as 20mm? What would be my best course of action to get the problem diagnosed? Someone mentioned maybe take it to a wreckers and they have a machine there to check the body alignment using the datum points etc.

Hey there, just got a car I'm looking at buying inspected and although there were a fair few other things wrong with it, the one i'm majorly concerned with is one listed as requiring early attention and described as. Front wheels, one side is 20mm further forward than other. It says that it will require specialist attention to acertain the reason for it. I rang a few places and they all seemed to think the most likely reason for it would have been an accident at some stage. Just wondering if anyone has had any experience with a similar problem or knows how likely it is that this could be a serious problem? I don't want to buy the car only to find out that it has been crashed and has some serious chasis damage. Thanks.

Is that Bayside Blue?

Thanks mate, definitely gonna go for the lightened flywheel option then. Just to let other R34GTT owners know, the cheapest deal I could find was the C & B organic clutch (240rwkw) $660 and a 5.5kg chrome moly flywheel from Adelaide Clutch Service for $420. So that's $1080 + installation.

So you're still happy with your decision to switch to a lightened flywheel? The C & B clutch is a bit more expensive for me because it's a pull type. The cheapest I could find at nengun and greenline that include a lightened flywheel is the Exedy Hyper multi plate (twin) for about $1800, so it looks like the C & B clutch and buying a flywheel is the way to go for me. Did you buy your Extreme 4.8kg flywheel from Adelaide Clutch Services?

Hey all, just realised the car i'm about to purchase only has a standard clutch so I assume it isn't going to last for long. It's a manual R34 GTT. I'm looking at getting one of the 240rwkw organic clutches from the C & B groupbuy. Just wondering if I then buy an R34 lightened flywheel such as an ORC or NISMO, will it fit fine with the aftermarket clutch? (Organic Exedy) I assume that it will because the clutch would expect you to use your original flywheel right? and an aftermarket lightened flywheel should fit fine into a standard clutch... But I just want to make sure to be 100% safe. Also does anyone know of an aftermarket clutch that's good to about 240rwkw that comes with a lightened flywheel? I'm looking at around $660 for the Exedy + $550ish for a lightened flywheel so if there's anything else around that has both for less than $1500 i'd be interested. Thanks.

Big improvement there mate, I think i'll be happy if I can eventually get my R34 to run 12s. Would you mind posting up what you've done to your car and the power you're producing? I figure you've got 240rwkw+?

You would need some sort of aftermarket ECU, possibly a PowerFC which you can pick up for about $950 + tuning. Plus you'd want a front/dump pipe, something like BATML offers maybe.

On the online quote it asks if the car is modified and states that all modifications must be legal. Does this mean that if my car is modified with say, an intercooler, exhaust, suspension etc, that it has to be engineered to meet the requirements of the insurance company (Famous)?

How come there isn't as many R34 as 33? R33 were from 1993-1997 and R34 from 1998-2001 right? So 4 and 3 years of production, shouldn't be that big a difference in the amount made?

Yeah, I guess I am just getting cold feet about spending that sort of money on something I know is gonna depreciate. I'm sure it'll be a fun car to drive, and it's what I really have my heart set on so I should probably just get over it and buy one heh.

Hey just curious if anyone has any idea on how the value of R34 GTTs will hold up over time (Perhaps based on the price trends of R33s) Nowdays a clean 1998 turbo 2 door example is worth what? $25,000? It seems everyone is having trouble selling them, so they're dropping in value fairly quick i assume. Does anyone have any idea what fairly commonly modified R34 (say exhaust, pfc, intercooler, boost controller etc) would be worth in 3-4 years? I'm just trying to gauge how much I should be offering for one nowdays, and how much I can expect to lose through depreciation. I swear just 6 months ago they were selling for $35,000+ Just an example. Bink1970's white R34 with a decent amount of mods I think sold for around $26,000-28,000

Yeah just to add my 2c, I agree with Dave's suggestion. My little RB20 used to do that exact thing so I got a new secondhand AFM and it fixed it entirely.

Cheers guys, i'll give it a go! Thanks for the advice.

Ah okay, but it does guarantee I can get my car blue slipped if all else fails right? I don't want to goto all the hassle of getting the car from WA to NSW and then have to run around in circles for months just trying to get it on the road. The car isn't exactly heavily modified, here's a list alarm system Aftermarket spoties Hybrid front mounted intercooler + custom stainless steel piping 3 inch Dump and full 3" exhaust + stainless steel from cat back + 4-5 inch canon exhaust PIVOT turbo timer Apexi Avcr boost controller Apexi powerFC and Hand controller HKS double adjustable coil overs C's short shift kit K&N pod filter + CAI box Whiteline handling kit (front and rear camber + caster + rear pineapples) Arc stabiliser bars front and rear Factory strut tower brace NISMO Clear side/front indicators Factory Xenon headlights Really the only things that would stand out would be the intercooler and exhaust I think... does anyone know how much luck I'd have getting this through blue slip? (hopefully i'm on the right track in regards to what I need to register an interstate car, basically I just get the car into NSW, take it to a workshop to get a blue slip, then go get a green slip and rego and voila...?) Because it's an imported car will i need to get ahold of the import and compliance papers? or bill of lading etc. It is already registered in WA.

Thanks for that mate, I guess if worst comes to worst i can just get it engineered... although it's an extra $550 roughly. But that also protects me from getting defected right?

That looks mad... i'd buy one.

Hey, not sure if this is in the right place. Basically I'm looking at buying a modified skyline from WA, and I want to register it in NSW. Looking at the list of requirements on the RTA Website it says I will need to get a blue slip done. Just wondering if that means the car would legally have to be taken back to stock condition (ie all mods removed) before it could be passed. Has anyone had any experience with doing this? I'm in a fairly small town so there's no workshops that would have the stock parts to swap them over etc. Would I be better off buying a car from within NSW?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=116688 Ends on the 20th of may but there are bound to be more at a later date.

I'd be interested in a full URAS style kit if it could still be done for the special price...

I'd be interested in an R34 bonnet too, but vented not standard...

Says $18,000 if you follow the link...

SOLD, thanks for the interest.

Have had two serious offers that i am considering, any offers above $9000 and its yours.