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Everything posted by Lithius
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Item: 1989 R32 GTS-T Coupe. 103,000km, manual, turbo, sunroof, black. First australian owner, imported in 2005. Location: Batemans Bay, NSW South Coast, approximately 4 hours south of Sydney. Item Condition: Mechanically perfect, needs a respray. Small dent on passenger side rear quarter panel. Have been quoted $3,000 for full respray back to original condition, this quote was in a small town though, would most likely be cheaper in a major city. Still looks nice as is though, and sounds very tough. Reason for Selling: Upgrading. Price and Payment Conditions: $10,000 ONO Extra Info: 1989 R32 Nissan Skyline GTS-T Coupe Black 5 Speed Manual Sunroof Aftermarket Front-mount Intercooler BLITZ Dual SBC Spec R (Electronic Dual Boost Controller) R32 GTR Fuel Pump (not installed) Hi-Flow 3" Cat Converter Height Adjustable Suspension 3" Turbo-Back Exhaust APEXi Pod Filter Xtreme Heavy Duty Street Clutch Ozzy Racing RS GT Shadow Chrome 17x7" Wheels Federal tyres as new (5000km use only) Bride Driver's Seat Momo Shift Knob Vertex Front Spoiler Aftermarket 'Personal' Steering Wheel SAAS Boss Kit APEXi Boost, Exhaust Temp, and Water Temp Gauges Rear Pods GTR Aluminium Bonnet Engineering Certificate Road Worthy Certificate Rego (~7months) Complianced Import Approval etc... If you're not sure about anything just ask. Contact Details: Email: [email protected] Mob: 0414 527 138
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Nissan Skyline R33 (original Jun Kit)
Lithius replied to Performance Werkz's topic in For Sale (Private Whole cars only)
So you can't sell till feb? Just wondering why the boost is set so low and if you've had it dynoed at anything higher. -
Fs - '89 Nissan Infiniti Q45 - Vip Style
Lithius replied to si's topic in For Sale (Private Whole cars only)
Hey what's the fuel consumption like? Very nice looking car mate, have you ever have it dynoed? -
Low Power For R32 Gts-t (dyno Graph Included)
Lithius replied to Lithius's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
So even with an electronic boost controller a stock turbo can't hold 12+ PSI? And it's normal for it to drop so low? -
Low Power For R32 Gts-t (dyno Graph Included)
Lithius replied to Lithius's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Hey I was just playing around with it then, trying to dial in 13-14PSI on my boost controller and checking it with both my boost gauge and the boost controllers boost metre, and it's now getting up about 13PSI, but is not holding it. Even tho i'm still revving higher the boost starts to drop (it dropped to about 8PSI before I stopped revving) Does this indicate a boost leak or something else? -
Low Power For R32 Gts-t (dyno Graph Included)
Lithius replied to Lithius's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I think it was done in shootout mode, it's hard to read 'cause of my shoddy camera work but down the bottom it says "Results plotted using dyno dynamics shootout mode" Thanks for the advice guys, i will get some new plugs into her and look into getting the timing altered. will report back with any news. It's not blowing any smoke. -
Low Power For R32 Gts-t (dyno Graph Included)
Lithius replied to Lithius's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Brand new Extreme heavy duty clutch, old one shit itself not long after it was imported. Just found out my boost controller is in % not PSI... so i've been running 14% which explains the difference in boost between it and the dyno. I still think 120 is low for 11PSI though. So i might try changing the sparkplugs, winding up the boost a bit more etc. What's involved in changing the timing and a compression test? Any idea of a rough price? -
Low Power For R32 Gts-t (dyno Graph Included)
Lithius replied to Lithius's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Bump, no ideas? -
Hey there, finally got around to getting my little R32 Gts-t dynoed today but was a bit disappointed with the result. Here's whats done to it Intercooler Blitz Electronic DBC Apexi Airpod 3" Turbo back Exhaust High flow cat Stock ECU 98Octane fuel Was running 14 PSI on the EBC but according to the dyno the maximum it reached was 11. The guy seemed to think that the stock ECU might be preventing it from boosting any higher but i thought you guys might know if that were true or not, or whether I should be looking at something else. He also said the boost could possibly be leaking somewhere. Anyway here's the dyno graph, sorry about the quality it was taken with a webcam. Max RWKW is 121.4, but I was expecting 140+ Is there any indication on the graph of something terribly wrong?
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17) Thou shalt stay in your own lane and not play swirvey dirveys all over the two lanes as I'm trying to overtake you, scaring the shit out of me in the process.
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How do you know it's a RWD V8? Source?
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i THINK i like it... not sure about the front, but the arse is damn sexy Love the quad mufflers
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Refresh the page
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Hey just to let any future readers of this thread know... I changed my AFM metre yesterday (bought a secondhand one off here) and it seems to have fixed it completely. Car runs like a bought one!
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hey all the AFM metre i need is the green label. been offered one for $80 delivered, so unless someone wants to beat that price...
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Cheers mate, feel a bit better now about it all... now begins the hunt for an AFM
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Thanks for all the input guys.. I joined it back up with some radiator hose type stuff, does seem to be a bit nicer between gears when i'm giving it a bit. So there's nothing else they would've changed to complement that? Like the electronic boost controller and stuff will still be fine?
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Hey thanks buddy i will post again tonight after i've taken mine off to check if it's the green or pink sticker whichever, 'cause apparently there's different ones.
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Hey guys i'm just trying to confirm whether or not my AFM is the problem before I go out and buy one... (secondhand preferably because some nissan spare parts place just quoted me $850 for one shipped from Japan) Car seems to be a bit worse today, had to pull over twice because it was just dying that much. Stalled several times both times, and when I started it up again the revs would seek between 1-2000rpm for about 30seconds before settling at about 750 which is normal. I checked the ECU for error codes but all I got was 55 ALL OK so no MAF error in there. Does it still sound like my air flow meter is stuffed? I'm using a non-oiled pod filter, am gonna take it all off tommorow and see if there's anything majorly obvious thats wrong with the afm. Edit: Car also seems to be running a little richer than usual, ie fuel consumption not as good as previous.
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Hey i'm just trying to diagnose a recent problem I've been having, just having a little trouble with the standard ECU in my rb20det. I have the service manual and have read the posts on here about ECCS codes, i just can't find where the green or red LED flashes are supposed to occur. Do I have to unscrew the ECU from the footwall to see them? The picture below is how it is seated... From what I can gather the lights should flash from the bottom of it? But when I look there's nothing there. Edit: Just did some google searching and discovered the LEDs face the front of the car! so i'll have to remove it from the footwall. What a strange place to put them... Sorry for that, only reason i didn't remove it before posting is because the screws are so tight my screwdrivers just spin. I don't see a way to delete this thread but if a mod sees it please delete, thanks.
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So if it goes back through the turbo and slows it down, it'd actually be decreasing performance if anything?
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Hey i'm after a standard R32 GTS-T AFM. Anyone know where I can buy one of these, do places like Autopro etc have them? I'm pretty sure the part number is 22680-02U00
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So what they've done is block off the stock BOV? Where does the air go instead? Any idea why they would've done this? I'm just wondering if I can take the caps off and put a little bit of hose in there to rejoin it all. Or whether I should even just leave it how it is... If the BOV isn't hooked up how does it release pressure?
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Hey this engine isn't mine just one I found on the net to illustrate my question. On my car the hose i've circled below has been removed and the ends where it joined on have just been sealed off with big rubber cap things. Just wondering why this would've been done, and if I should remove the caps and rejoin the hose. I remember the engineer who looked at it when it was imported said i should fix it cuz it could end up blowing my engine up or something.
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I just started having this problem the other day... will be driving along and it just loses power for a split second, then it's back, then it's gone, back... etc. Sometimes it's worse than others. Also stalls when idling which it has never done before this started 3-4 days ago. So replacing the AFM is the way to go? I thought it seemed like it was getting starved for fuel so i replaced the fuel filter (which i couldn't even blow through it was that clogged with shit) but still has the same problem. I get so upset when my baby isn't working properly =(