konect

Hi all, Been trying to fix this for over a month now so thought I'd create a thread on here to see if anyone has had something similar. I've tried to summarise as best as I could. Car info: Cefiro RB25 Locked diff 2 piece tailshaft Problem info: October 2012 - Purchased car in QLD and drove it home to VIC (no apparent vibration present or I wouldn't have been driving it far) June 2013 - Raised the car and put new rims on to get it on club permit and drove it around a few times with no apparent vibration (from memory...) July/August 2013 - Drove it down the freeway and noticed a vibration from 70km/h and higher that shakes the entire car. It's so violent that the dash, seat and everything shakes so much that I have to slow down. September/Oct 2013 New wheels bearings fitted to rear due to play found in left hub New rear tie rods fitted due to play found New rear traction rods fitted due to play in stock items Swapped rims for stock items (used the same ones for trip back from QLD) and also tried another set of wheels Put rear on jack stands and ran it up to 70km/h and vibration is still there (eliminated it being a front end issue) Removed tailshaft and ran up to 70km/h and no vibration present. Got the tailshaft inspected and balanced and they said it was only SLIGHTLY out at the front and it wouldn't have caused a major vibration...still charged me $150 for the pleasure.... Inspected gearbox and engine mounts and they appear solid (only a mm or so of movement) Refitted tailshaft and vibration is still there Remaining options: Swap diff out for a stock item Others??? That's all I've got left at the moment - other than taking it to a workshop however based on previous experience I'm not super keen to do this - spend hours investigating, charge for it and the problem is still there Any help would be greatly appreciated.

like the flares.

Hi all, Got a full set of S2 RB25 Splitfire coilpacks for sale. They were working perfectly when I removed them from my car 2 weeks ago but I have done and LS2 conversion so I no longer need them. Note - they will only work on S2 RB25. $350 Available for pickup in Melton West - Message me on here or call 0409 623 940.

Nah not going to Trent coz I'm sick of their crap customer service. Going to take it to Sabbadin and see how it goes

Sooo progress has been made. Car now has some GM in it with the LS2 coil pack conversion completed. I'd HIGHLY recommend this conversion to anyone. I started the car (very nervously) and waited for the revs to start hunting but they didnt. Stock dwell settings and the car runs much crisper than it did with the splitfires. Doesn't bog down if you don't give it enough revs now either - can't wait to see them at full power with a tune! Tune is booked for 30/9 so will be good to see how it runs after that. Then just need some tires and its track time!

There is already this one which is established - lots of AU/NZ people on there already and can access a worldwide market for goodies and advice https://www.facebook.com/A31CefiroOwners

Yeh I was doing bit of noise testing with it yesterday. The valve can close FULLY (which is just stupid) so where I have it mounted I pull it down about 2/3 of the way. The best way to explain it is that it takes the 'gurgle' or 'rummble' out of the exhaust. So it is still loud but doesn't have that aggressive tone - hopefully that makes sense. I'll try and take some video of it.

Finally got around to taking some pics to update this thread! I've been relatively busy with the car and have actually been able to drive it around - feels amazing I ended up buying a new 100 cell cat and getting a local exhaust shop to weld it up and align the exhaust properly. $80 well spent, saved me the headache of trying to weld under the car. Been driving it around with the mufflers in and it has a reasonably acceptable noise level haha. Had to trim the rear bar for them to fit but is looking good. Can't wait to hit the track with the mufflers out!! Finished my new gauge installation with its array of switches. I still have to make labels for them but I know what they are so im not too stressed about that. Made up the bracket from a single piece of aluminium which screws into the stock stereo holes. The gauges have a shit load of wiring to them so I had to draw out a complete wiring diagram to make sure everything works. Here's a run down on what each bit does: Oil temp Oil pressure (shown in Bar - car was off at time of photo) Water temp Warning buzzer - Each gauge has configurable warning levels switched by an internal relay. All 3 gauges are negatively switched to the buzzer so when the internal relay switches upon hitting the limit it will start the buzzer flashing and beeping (FYI - its really loud) Switch for buzzer - I added a switch to the buzzer so if something goes wrong and I'm aware of it, it doesn't continually keep beeping at me! Switch to allow radio, clock, central locking to work when the kill switch is off. When it is on it allows current to pass through a 15amp fuse across the kill switch terminals so if you try and start the car without the kill switch the fuse blows. When it is off it means the car is drawing no power. I have to get used to this as I've blown the fuse twice so far lol Kill switch After getting sick of hearing every little noise I spent this week making up 2 sheet metal panels to cover the holes where the rear seat and parcel shelf used to be. I've covered all holes and re-routed all the wiring to run through a single hole which I still have to cover with some rubber. It makes a MASSIVE difference to the noise level inside the car and also will allow me to run an external fuel system if the times comes. For all the small holes I tack welded metal covers over them then sikaflexed around them to ensure a complete seal. I still have to put the other piece of carpet can in but you get the idea.... Battery has been relocated to the boot. After much deliberation I finally decided to go for the lowest centre of gravity and weld up a platform for it to sit on in the spare wheel well. The clamp is attached to the steel bracket so its not going anywhere. I still need to buy a circuit breaker which also be mounted in the boot to avoid any melt downs if there is a short. Also welded a bolt to the floor to create a good grounded point for the battery. Things still to be done: LS2 coilpack conversion. I've ordered the coils & pigtails from the US and once I decide where to mount them I'll order the leads too. I've heard great things about these coils making RBs run super smooth and can do the conversion for ~$300 so I thought I might as well do it before getting it tuned. Get it tuned Do a track day!

So I have realised this thread is lacking some pictures. Getting exhaust fixed put tomorrow so will take some pics on the weekend. Get excited!

Thanks mate. I confirmed with the old owner that the "meter" fuse was fried due to a short when he had the car (thank god!). The "meter" circuit is actually not in use as all the lights etc work even without the fuse in there so based on what I could gather, he has rewired this circuit into another fuse (not sure which one....) The one I put the 15amp in is the Head Lamp fuse so when the lights come on it will dim the gauges. I might just check a relay in there and run them off that with a fused 12v. Fun and games investigating years of wire destruction and repair haha!

Hi folks, I've been doing some work on the ceffy and installed a few gauges. I started the car and all worked (smiles all round). I then walked away, came back and started it again and the ignition went out completely... I thought hmm that's strange, I'll check the fuse box. Upon inspection the "Meter" fuse connection has totally melted away but the fuse was unmarked and in tact. The area wasn't hot either so I've asked the prev owner if this happened while he had it. The headlight fuse blew as well but I've established that is because the gauges draw too much for the 10amp fuse when the lights were turned on so I chucked a 15amp in there. Anyhoo my question is - what exactly does the "Meter" fuse actually do as everything seems to work still.....

Damn you! *shakes fist*

Both sold.

Hi chaps, I bought these items last week from Justjap but upon pulling my dump off I found that someone has cut and shut a t28 flange on it (probably should have checked first!). Anyhoo, it will cost me more to return these to Justjap so they are up for sale so I can get the correct parts. Cost me ~$250 delivered for these 2 items so you can save a bundle on freight costs here. JJR R32/33 Dump/Front pipe - mild steel Paid $179 (not including freight) - Selling $165 1 week old, never fitted. Comes with bolts and gaskets. Genuine Nissan RB20/25 turbo gasket Paid $35 (not including freight) - Selling $25 1 week old, never fitted or even opened. Pickup from Melton. PM me on here or call 0409 623 940.

Sent you another PM about some more parts

Loving this thread - amazing fab work mate!

Post the actual car up with some pics and you might get some more interest. I saw a turbo factory manual on gumtree not long ago for 3.5k that was very mint so might give you a gauge on price. Unfortunately we really make money back on parts and being in Perth will reduce the price further. I'd be interested in some interior bits and pieces if you end up wrecking it.

Love the patrol. What sort of a tow hitch do you run with that lift? I'm gonna have to track down a goose neck for the navara once I start towing the cef around I think...

Some updates. No pics unfortunately. Got my club reg plates - but car isn't drivable at the moment coz the exhaust is off Reinhard arrived from Japan, went to fit it up and the old custom flanges don't align. Going to get a new dump/front and get an exhaust shop to make it all fit. Its massive and I forgot how nice it is with the removable mufflers and silencers Check out the Reinhard here (will post pics of mine shortly) - http://www.reinhard.co.jp/en/shop/dual_muffler.html Got some new digital gauges from Auber. Great gauges at a great price! Will post pics once they are fitted. Check them out here - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_21&products_id=139 ​Upcoming activities: Relocate battery from the back seat to the boot and move the kill switch to free up space for gauges in centre console Fit gauges Put the old exhaust back on, get a dump/front and get a shop to put it all together Do LS2 coil conversion to remove misfire Get it tuned Etc etc etc etc (the list goes on lol)

Thanks guys. I swapped coils 1 and 6 today and got a second set of ears on the job too. We 'think' that it might actually be coming from under the inlet near the alternator. The sound still comes from the front end of the motor, but with a second set of ears we thought it was lower down rather than in the channel where the coils are. THe car ran for about 10 mins at 1100rpm without doing it, then as soon as the revs dropped it clicked again. I'm thinking maybe the alternator is being asked to send more voltage to recover the revs and its a switch or something making the sound?? :S Might see if I can get an auto elec to have a look at it and see if they can pin point where it is. Its hard to pinpoint the location with the inlet in the way and the clutch fan blowing air around.

Yeh it does sound similar to the coil shorting which was my first thought. I've done the lights off test and couldn't see anything. The thing is, it only happens when the revs hunt. If they aren't hunting, then there is no clicking sound. That's what's got me stumped on this one :S

Where are you getting all these lovely parts from? Scouring Yahoo?

Hey all, I started my car tonight and noticed that there is a clicking sound present from what appears to be coilpack 1 or 2. It was more obvious when the car was cold but then as it warmed up it became less regular. When I got in the drivers seat I noticed that when the revs are consistent the clicking goes away. When the revs start hunting the clicking sound occurs when the revs reach the lowest point before going up again. Eg consistent ideal is 900rpm, drops to 800, clicks and revs return to 900. Anyone know what this could be or experienced it before? Engine: RB25 Computer: PFC Coils: Splitfire Cheers, Konect.

I think I saw those for sale on ebay. A dude in SA makes them and they were about $220 from memory. It's not the one I was talking about, but this one is similar.... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/R32-Skyline-Custom-Oil-Catch-Can-16mm-Barb-RB20-RB25-/130913913473?nma=true&si=C00a%252BvmKil%252FcxoYjgjVHPrp6jAI%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

Finally had some time to work on the car and fit all the little pieces after getting back from overseas. Took the car of jack stands for the first time in about 2 months and took it for a spin with the new wheels on other goodies. ECV ECV arrived from the US just before I left. Put it in when I got back and managed to route the cable perfectly over and around the gearbox, up through the firewall next to the speedo cable then behind the centre console and mounted the little lever on the passenger side (no pics yet though...) Speedo cable This package arrived while I was away and was a nice little present to have waiting for me. Was pretty easy to remove the old on and put this one in. I haven't tested it with the cluster in yet, but I can see it spinning when I took the car for a drive so I assume it will work! Ended up being just under $100 delivered from Jesse which I was happy with. Current state Finally got to take a pic of the car with the new (temporary) wheels on it. I actually don't mind them, but they need to be spaced out after it gets rego. Front left corner still needs to be raised more. The coil has shit itself from the drive home from QLD when I bought the car so I'll have to get another set in the near future. Also done a heap of little things like wiring front bar indicators, plugging little holes in the floor, cable tying some wiring etc etc. Things to do before I get it inspected (ETA 2 weeks!) Move boost gauge the A pillar (have a gauge cup waiting at the post office to pickup Monday) Put the cluster and surround back in Tidy the inside Raise the front left a but more Fit indicators to front bar (either the indicators are a bit big, or the slot in the bar is a bit small....)