Tangles

Yes all Rb25. Head was done a number of years ago, now the bottom end has caught up. Was still a cheap rebuild so I wont be looking for max power from the setup, not until I can afford a good oil/water pump setup, oil cooler, and rewire the loom to suit z32 nistune. Used to make 249rwkw from the auto with the front shaft removed, anything around that mark would be fine tbh.

18psi from an ATS highflow would just be starting to reach the happy zone. I have an ATS "highflow" of sorts, with a GT3076R ball bearing internal wastegate core - front is a stock compressor cover ported out to the extreme, rear exhaust housing is a .73ar AVO unit for the 6-bolt skyline style. Bill Keen from ATS builds his turbos to take up to around 22psi comfortably, 18psi would be nice and sweet for an unopened motor. Make sure your fueling is ok, same with cooling. But with 270rwkw currently Id say that probably isnt an issue. At 18psi you could expect 280rwkw, at 20psi perhaps up to 300rwkw. I use and recommend Bootworx, however Willal Racing is a SAU:SA club sponsor and Martin Donnan would have to be the best tuner in the state.

Lucky save, for sure. Yeah with the position Im in now financially I cant afford for anything to go wrong. Putting all my eggs in the one basket, so to speak, by studying medical radiation science next year at Uni-SA in Adelaide. Been on the disability pension since June 08 and have used up all my savings; at the point where I cant afford the morgage any longer. Pretty much only regained my mental health 5 weeks ago when I took myself off my medication (fentanyl - 80x strength of heroin & literally sent me insane). Ive got a lot in front of me & just cant afford for anything to go wrong. Once the house sells I'll need all I get after the loan repayment & divorce split to get myself through Uni over the next 4, possibly 5, years. Just went up'n'round a hill for a couple of minutes, brakes seem good. Forgot Ive got an 18psi actuator so no my boost isnt limited to 8psi; going to have to load up the engine carefully as I dont trust the tune just at this point - definately dont want it overfuelling with a whack of air pressure to boot. Greddy boost solonoid is removed but that'd mean its running off the actuator, going to have to be careful with how I go about it.

Yeah I know, I ran in my old Fireblade 919cc engine nice and hard and that was a stomper once tuned with the flatslide carbies. Recently ran in the rb26 engine via loading it up; will have that tuned when I can afford it (once house is sold). Buying the track car was a BIG mistake but admittedly Ive been mentally crazy over the past number of years (pain, medication). What I actually meant with "slowly"was I'll only be doing small sessions of driving and the 1000kms will probably take me 6 weeks to get up to (builder/tuner advice was to make sure I do the 1000kms, whereas Id rather bring it in for new fluids and tune after 500kms). Boost is limited to 8psi currently. I'll be loading the engine when possible. 1st proper drive will be in the Hills sometime in the next couple days. Will take it up Willunga Hill rd a few times (big hill that features in the Tour Down Under cycle race). Thanks for your suggestions mate; I'll be sure not to let it idle much. Just drove it 35kms home today; might go out shortly up a small hill and make sure the brake lines are clear from the rim edge - a couple of times now Ive stuffed up where Ive cable tied the lines and broke the metal tube line that goes into R32 gtst calipers...........

Got the Stagea back today after the bottom end rebuild Home by 3pm, took a cpl hours to refit the front 324mm brake rotor kit Yet to test the brakes since refitting. Engine purrs very nicely. Will run in the engine slowly over the next 6 weeks or so.

stock RB26dett turbo dump pipes (pair), with stock twin turbo 2-1 front pipe (from dump to cat converter) $50 pickup, Morphett vale. Will throw in used RB26 stock oil pump. rb25det exhaust manifold as posted above, make an offer. Advertised for $150 but will sell at the right price.

I paid Boostworx 4k to pull out and strip down the engine, to supply new CP pistons, clean head for reassembly, completly recondition the block including bore/hone/refacing, polish the crank, supply & fit new ACL race bearings & new welch plugs, new MLS head gasket, turbo lines, etc. Tune will be included in a thousand kms time, just have a hundred to spend on fluids/filters. Drives nicely, got home mid-arvo and refitted the big brake kit - yet to test. Really needs a wash and clean inside/out. happy with the work performed. Thanks mate, good on you. Would be a very interesting course to study. I'll be getting myself to Southbound gym as soon as I can afford to; time to rebuild my body as I exercise my mind with my study. Almost finished going over the Anatomy text book, once finished will start on some note taking. Ive been down a very dark road in my life for a number of years now. Im glad Ive come through it, and am very positive about what my future holds for me. With hard work now over the next 4years Im sure my life experience will help me to being able to help others. Since your now a qualified trainer Rueben could you advise me on leg exercises that are possible for me to do at the gym considering Im without patellas? Calf raises (weight stack over shoulders), hamstring curls, maybe leg press but not sure about that tbh, & I doubt I can do leg extensions; certainly cant do squats. Not sure what else I'll be able to try?

yay! got the stag back! now for the running in period....

Best cleaning methond is a 50/50% mix of Methylated Spirits & Kerosene.

Congrats Abe! damn, my car better be ready this week

I think the Nismo bodykit looks awesome on C34 Series-1, wheras the Dayz front bar with carbon insert looks great standard on the Series-2 As for rims, whatever is your personal preference. Good luck with it.

Double world champion & still some years ahead of him in the premier class. Can't wait to see Stoner blitz on the 1litre bikes next year....what a great rider.

Webber got a great start! Must have watched Stoner & gained some inspiration =P

Id suggest Selleys #401 hi-temp industrial strength silicone sealant (+ corking gun to apply) from your local hardware store for under $20. Layer it around the coilpacks to stop breakdwon / wasted spark. Will get you by for a fair while

As soon as my car is back from the bottom end rebuild I'll be re-starting weight lifting. Will take a pre-photo, and a 12-week post photo. Havent lifted in years mostly due to pain medication sending me crazy, but Im a month off the Fentanyl now and feeling great! My lifting methods will be directly from The Matrix Principle, probably only twice a week, and will use most likely use Creatine. Having no patellas I'll most likely be restriced to calf raises, hamstring curls, perhaps leg press, chest, lats/back, biceps/triceps, shoulders and abdominals. I'll start off using conventional matrix, conventional iso-matrix, & matrix ladders. Its very hard work; only ever aim to lift at most 40% of your 1x rep maximum although I doubt you'd be able to start off at that mark. If say you bench 6x reps of 100kg then try the conventional matrix at 30kgs and try 2 sets of the conventional matrix system, having no more than a 30second break between the sets. You'll gain size and strength quickly, but make sure you feed your muscles well! For those that are interested here is the list of the 12 Matrix Techniques. 1. Conventional Matrix 5 full reps 5 half-up 5 half-down 5 full reps 2. Decending Matrix 7 full reps 6 half-up 5 half-down 4 full reps 3. Ascending Matrix 4 full reps 5 half-up 6 half-down 7 full reps 4. Matrix Alternates 5 full reps 1 half up, 1 half down, 1 full rep 1 half up, 1 half down, 2 full reps 1 half up, 1 half down, 3 full reps 1 half up, 1 half down, 4 full reps 1 half up, 1 half down, 5 full reps 5. Cumulative Matrix Alternates 1 full rep, 1 half up, 1 half down 2 full reps, 2 half up, 2 half down 3 full reps, 3 half up, 3 half down 4 full reps, 4 half up, 4 half down 5 ful reps 6. Matrix ladders 5 full reps 1 rep 1/5 up 1 rep 2/5 up 1 rep 3/5 up 1 rep 4/5 up 1 full rep 1 rep 1/5 down 1 rep 2/5 down 1 rep 3/5 down 1 rep 4/5 down 1 full rep 5 full reps 7. Cumulative Matrix ladders 1 full rep 1 rep 1/5 up 2 reps 2/5 up 3 reps 3/5 up 4 reps 4/5 up 5 full reps 1 rep 1/5 down 2 reps 2/5 down 3 reps 3/5 down 4 reps 4/5 down 5 full reps 8. Ascending iso-Matrix 5 full reps 1 rep half up (hold weight in the half position for 1 second) 1 rep half up (hold for 2 seconds) 1 rep half up (hold for 3 seconds) 1 rep half up (fold for 4 seconds) 1 rep half up (hold for 5 seconds) 1 full rep 1 rep half down (hold weight in the half position for 1 second) 1 rep half down (hold for 2 seconds) 1 rep half down (hold for 3 seconds) 1 rep half down (hold for 4 seconds) 1 rep half down (hold for 5 seconds) 5 full reps 9. Decending iso-Matrix 5 full reps 1 rep half up (hold weight in the half position for 5 seconds) 1 rep half up (hold for 4 seconds) 1 rep half up (hold for 3 seconds) 1 rep half up (fold for 2 seconds) 1 rep half up (hold for 1 seconds) 1 full rep 1 rep half down (hold weight in the half position for 5 second) 1 rep half down (hold for 4 seconds) 1 rep half down (hold for 3 seconds) 1 rep half down (hold for 2 seconds) 1 rep half down (hold for 1 seconds) 5 full reps 10. Conventional iso-Matrix 5 full reps 5 reps half up (hold for 5 seconds, 3 seconds for beginners) 5 reps half down (hold for 5 seconds, 3 seconds for beginners) 5 full reps 11. Cumulative iso-Matrix 1 full rep 1 rep half up (hold for 1 second) 2 reps half up (hold for 2 seconds) 3 reps half up (hold for 3 seconds) 4 reps half up (hold for 4 seconds) 5 full reps 1 rep half down (hold for 1 second) 2 reps half down (hold for 2 seconds) 3 reps half down (hold for 3 seconds) 4 reps half down (hold for 4 seconds) 5 full reps 12. Mixed iso-Matrix 5 full reps 3 reps half up (hold for 3 seconds) 3 reps half down (no holding) 3 reps half up (no holding) 3 reps half down (hold for 3 seconds) 5 full reps

good luck Duncan. Im still waiting on mine since ringlands broke back in early April. Should be ready for run-in any day now. New forged 87mm CP pistons, complete block overhaul to suit, check of head (previously ported, with tomei cams/springs) etc. Looking forward to being mobile again Its been a while

Just Jap are the ones to get. http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18178&cat=&page=1 $179 for mild steel, or $199 for stainless. Ive had the stainless 3" bellmouth from JJR for at least 5yrs now. Best bang for buck dump/front pipe you could spend your money on. Delivery should be $30 or less. Do recommend.

Can vouch for bezenders car, sounds awesome coming on boost and looks pretty decent in the flesh too. Ive got a new stainless steel RB25det exhaust manifold to sell. Clear-coated it in exhaust heat paint and wrapped it in thermal wrap. Since taken off the thermal wrap, and as such got some fibres stuck here/there. Definately in as-new unused condition. Cost me $300 a couple of years ago, sell for $150. Currently sitting in the car at Boostworx - hope to have it in my possession again this week sometime(?) Decided to use the stock manifold and sell this aftermarket unit on. Also have a Stagea cargo barrier next to sell - $100 ono, comes with stock swaybars and stock front brake discs (used) Plus selling some old holden "fat" rims with tyres for my dad ebay link here: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290619421625&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:AU:1123 $100 for the set of 4. Suits FJ, FX, EH, EK, etc.

When BF2 came out I used NVIDIA 7800gtx Sli. One card burnt out pretty quick, sold the other & have since used ATI cards. From 2600xfire, 3650xfire, 4870, 5770, now running 2gb 6950 with 6970 bios upgrade. BF3 ran smoothly on the beta, looking forward to running the game on ultra settings. For the price Ati shits over Nvidia counterparts (in my opinion).

Wow @ brake setup. Jenna thanks very much, I feel awesome (mentally, knees a lil'bit sore but using a cream called ExitPain which I'm finding particularly helpful). I hope your back isn't giving you too much grief. If so try the cream I mentioned; available from chemists or health food stores. Studying daily as I'm trying to take in as much as possible prior to uni next year. Its all coming along, first time in a long time I've felt like I've got something great ahead of me.... & Its mine for the taking. =D

Hi janno from Germany - great to have you here with us on SAU. Firstly, take out the ECU (passenger kick panel), undo the lid and make sure that the ecu itself hasnt been "chipped" - it may have an aftermarket eprom ecu chip installed. Reason I say this is I too have had a similar situation to yours. I am running a remap eprom chip in the stock ecu of my 1997 Series1 C34 Stagea auto awd wagon, plus a piggyback computer to further finetune the setup (was a mailorder tune from sau user Toshi who does ecu eprom chip tunes). The piggyback is AEM Fic/8, an american ecu similar to Greddy Emanage Ultimate piggyback ecu. I had a cut like you describe at around 6500rpm. To get around it I installed a Fuel Cut Defender and we tuned around it via the FCD and aftermarket piggyback computer on the dyno. Between 6200-6500rpm, depending on conditions (ie hot or cold weather, brand of fuel, slightly up or down hill) it would splutter like you describe. Was a total loss of power, felt like a fueling issue but 100% positive it was a LOAD issue as Torques descibes above. After tuning around this area with the piggyback ecu, using the fuel cut defender to clamp the air flow metre signal at this rpm point, we were finally able to run the rpm out past 7000rpm to redline. Caution must be taken though when using a fuel cut defender (FCD) because if the tune isnt great you could damage your engine. I blew the ringlands of piston #5 on the track soon after using the FCD method to get around this load issue - however I damaged the engine previously at a track day by boiling the oil/water and most likely creating cracks in the ringlands at this time, so it was only a matter of time & a heavy leadfoot at the track before it let go once and for all. You may wish to try another Air Flow Metre as your current AFM may be starting to play up - in the FAQ section here on SAU there is a guide on how to fix cracked solder joints within the air flow metre. As a last resort a Fuel Cut Defender might be of assistance, but would require careful setup on a dyno, and to be honest should be viewed as a last resort.

31 days since I got off the medication; I feel pretty awesome Havent had one negative thought enter my head since getting off the Fentanyl. Really looking forward to Medical Radiation Science studies at UniSA next year, 4years of hard work ahead but Im quietly confident Ive got what it takes

VW Type-3 wagon was my first car Loved it dearly - but never left home without a bottle of oil.

Damo's GIF Thread is Wanted. OK - GO!

what about a clutch from RDA (brake supplier)? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SKYLINE-R31-RB20DET-R32-RB26DETT-R33-RB25DET-RPM-CLUTCH-/110666140584?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c4374ba8 $345 del. exedy STD for $324 del. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Exedy-Clutch-kit-Nissan-Skyline-R32-R33-GTS-T-RB20-RB25-/330562964190?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cf7168ade exedy HD for $440 del. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Exedy-HD-Clutch-Kit-Nissan-Skyline-R32-GTS-t-RB20DET-/220644569681?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item335f70f251 depends on your budget for $1k you can get a Nismo setup http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISMO-SPORTS-CLUTCH-KIT-NISSAN-SKYLINE-GTS-GTS-4-R32-RB20DET-CEFIRO-A31-/160435957724?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item255aba6fdc