Tangles

Itd be fine (and good price too!) if used in conjunction with a pigyback setup to finetune it for your setup, ie + SAFC + SITC, or + emanage ultimate ie, like Im running chipped ecu tune + AEM Fic/8, which is emanage equivelant But in saying that Ive got a z32 ecu here to nistune-chip, once Ive bought a harness patch extension to completely rewire everything. After cracking piston #5, shattering the rings, and cracking the rings on piston #4, Id prefer a full tune via Nistune.

had a deer jump out at me while cornering hard on the throttle (knew the road like back of my hand) on my built Fireblade back in the day, close call. also once had a brown snake attempt a strike as I raced past him....

thanks for the photo link 1.33's for the 'Handbrake' r35 and 1.32's for the Gt Auto r35 is pretty impressive for a 'shakedown' weekend.

sorry.... happy birthday mate!

the other forum?? didnt realize you too were on suprizebuttsex.cum !

compression test time I think....

yes Im really tempted to drop the rb26 from the trackcar into the stagea, but it comes down to finances & future plans/wants. a gut feel in this case says to me its better to have two cars which can be sold-off if required financially, rather than a 10k engine being dropped into the stagea leaving me with a trackcar-shell and half-a rb25 motor.

all this car talk..... in 5 years time or so, once Ive had the stagea for a dozen years, I'll be looking to purchasing an auto awd R34 GT-4 and drop my rb26 into it the stags bottom end is slowly being rebuilt atm, piston rings on cyl#4 had hairline cracks, #5 piston had spat the rings and was cracked. she died a sad death. Minimal cost rebuild will involve acl bearings & cp pistons.

Is that with -5 turbos? If so you'd be turning up the boost to `20psi on full tune, yeah?

cheapest trial would be to fit an adustable torque split control unit (gtr tsc http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GTR-Torque-Split-Controller-TSC-GTS4-GTS-4-RB26-Stagea-/110722890211?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c79939e3) and put more bias towards the front wheel drive ? might decrease the rear end drive loss you are experiencing? other tha that, change back to auto

Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator is around $180del off ebay Japan. Reliable & accurate fpr, excellent value for money. I bought mine 4yrs ago for $150...

changing the fuel filter only takes a couple of minutes to do, good idea to check if the fueltank/pump sock is clean if you find your filter is clogged. taking off individual coilpacks as the car is running wont result in a shock, good idea this one to see if its a dodgy coil. If your coilpacks are breaking down you could try a cheapfix method..... purchase selleys 401 industrial strength hitemp silicone sealant ($15 bunnings) use a corking gun ($2) and lather the coilpacks in the silicone- helps top wasted arc, but only generaly for boost applications (if your coilpacks are one the way out you're better off purchasing a replacement set). Clean air filter (pod or panel), clean your Air Flow Metre with contact/brake cleaner spray & make sure your contacts are good. There is a DIY-guide on how to fix faulty AFM's in the relevant section, definately worth while to source a spare afm and testdrive to eliminate this potential problem. Perhaps after this try a compression test; worse case could be glazed cylinder wall. Start with the basics and work your way from there...

I onsold all my HPI magazines However seeing Im in Adelaide, and Martin / Willall are sau:sa club sponsors I know where I'll be going to get it fitted, wired up & tuned

Stao - perhaps purchase a 'smog pump' from USA and bolt it up to the intake (pushing air down the air filter), run it off an AirConditioner motor. Becomes a supercharger of sorts.

+1 When I worked as a small business manager I was project manager for many jobs, some going into the millions of dollars in costs. Here in Adelaide we found the eastern seaboard states were never on the same 'level' with us timeframe-wise. If the interstate supplier had quoted 8 weeks for manufacture (add in 1 week for delivery, which I always arranged same time order was placed for product) we sort of had to allow say 10 weeks for manufacture, sometimes 12 (50% longer than quoted), simply because the late supply happened ALL the time. It was a guarantee that somewhere along the supply chain in NSW or Victoria a company would end up holding up our project. Main customer was the SA Govt. so it became nothing short of embarrassing. Didnt matter if I was in contact weekly to be updated on delivery timeframe, guaranteed the last week we'd get the 'sorry' speach...... Experienced this over 12 years in my job, it's the one part of the job I dont miss (got sacked once my kneecaps were surgically removed). I hope you can work it out in good time.

Thanks Luciano for the link, and to Sean for the conformation that the Rb26 bolts up to auto boxes.... THAT was what I wasnt sure about. Know plenty about the skylines/stageas now after logging on to sau most days for over 6yrs, but one thing Im not experienced with is taking gearboxes/engine out of the chassis (due to my "disabled" lower body holding me back), hence I wasnt sure how it would bolt up. But I take your word for it Sean, thanks.

............ and then you divorce and lose everything!!!

Not sure of the correct forum area to ask this question. Quite simply..... Q: Does the Rb26dett engine boltup to Rbxx automatic gearbox? If so, what model Skyline auto would be easier to bolt-up to? R32 auto, R33 auto, or R34 GTT tiptronic? Easier as-in with least amount of head/heartache. Leaning towards R32 at this stage. I would have the auto modified at MV Autos to run with a manual shift setup and strengthened to suit 300rwkw. Id be prepared to use the full R32 Rb26 loom, running Power-fc. Engine is fully built, and running in a manual rwd R32 sedan (track only). Once Im done tracking it over a number of years Id be keen in dropping the engine into a road-registered automatic Skyline. If it was a R32 I could use my current brakes & suspension setup, but would also be keen on a newer model, aka GTT R34 with tiptronic shift (again, auto would be modified for manual shift mode only). Reason for auto - no knees means daily driving a manual is out of the question. I can handle a handful of days a year at the track but not daily due to chronic pain. Once Im done tracking the car I want to keep the engine and mate it to a automatic skyline to make it my daily, and sell the track-car rolling shell and most likely the stagea too. Thoughts & suggestions please, so I can start nutting out my plan of attack. Cheers.

'sif get taken by a skyline!!! you need bigger front brakes by the looks.....

back in the day when I bought my stagea series1 C34's were 20k+, series2 autos were 27k+ and manuals over 30k. the M35 model wasnt available.... this was 6yrs ago. nowdays any stagea model is very affordable - simply depends what rocks your boat.

+1, even then I feel Id probably tie the body to the roof. Have a good day all....... engine is out of my stagea atm.

Ive never made a report before on SAU, but in this instance I know I did the right thing. OP - Look outside your square, one day you'll realize how immature you're being in regards to the avatar/profile picture.

just received a phone call from my local member of parliment - amanda rishworth - asking for my thoughts. quite simply had 2 comments to make, first of all Adelaide NEEDS a motorsport complex, and secondly the rate of the pension (barely) covering costs of living. She said she would be writing to the Govt. to push for the motorsport complex and would follow it up & eventually get back to me. .......

then you simply need to budget your funds better !!! I get by on 1200 a month.

I Own struggletown. Hows family paul (& mel if I recall correctly?) kids ok?