Tangles

talk to your tuner first to see what he's comfortable with Power-fc would be easy enough Nistune right up there as well auto Stagea runs remap ecu by Toshi + AEM FiC/8 piggyback, an american version of the emanage pro manual rb26 r32 sedan runs Power-FC with hand controller, bought for under $600del ebay.

For the rear with 322mm brembo track-edition 350z rear slotted discs would fit the caliper bracket assembly with NO issues whatsoever excellent $1100 rear brake upgrade to 4piston Superlites & 322mm rear discs all bolt on stuff Keep in mind tho with this size kit 18-19" wheels are required. 17"s wont clear. I went with Ox Wheels #607-black 18x8.5" +35 for under $200 per rim http://www.oxwheel.com.au/main/product_show.php?id=77&cataid=33

yes

r32 sedan rear seats, seatbelts, rear wing (grey) all in exc. condition pickup this week for goldcoins donation or will be gone to the dump by weekend

I run the Wilwood superlite 4-piston calipers, with 324mm 350z track rotors, lines, brackets, fitting kit, pads - all up costs under $1100 delivered from the states see here - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Big-Brake-Kit-300ZX-Nissan-13-4-piston-Wilwood-caliper-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem230bbd7c5aQQitemZ150520822874QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Used on my 1997 series-1 stagea, now setup on my 1993 r32 gtst sedan rb26 track car Can only imagine the 332mm 6-piston kit would be awesome - under $2k is current market price tho Id suggest considering the 324mm/4-piston kit is only $1100 324mm brembo slotted rotors are easily and cheaply available from the states for under $300 a pair delivered 330mm/32mm rotors are around $600 delivered for a front pair. 332\32mm would be $700 a pair Id guess and no the superlites do not come with dust-boots around the pistons of the brake caliper

gtx3076r with the skyline .73 AR exhaust housing (avoturbo.com) might be very interesting..... currently using this housing with gt3076r bb core, lag in awd auto stagea until just over 2000rpm then it takes off! easy 250awkw with 450cc S15 injectors better than stock automatic torque converter would change this again tho.... throw in 550cc injectors and the gtx3076r turbo and there's an easy 300awkw on pump gas with remap

sounds like heater core to me

to get near 13k is ok to be honest my S1 with over 40k of mods would struggle to sell for over 10k I believe. thankfully always been my wish to keep as a 15yr+ long-termer so another 9.5yrs to go Id say

seen a heap of stageas the past week black blue white grey all series-2's

ebay generally. pick up a new AEM widebande set for $200del from the states, or less. pm sent Trent. no big deal tho.

my bad S1 wheel sold S2 wheel with tiptronic buttons still for sale

stagea S1 steering wheel for sale

yea I know mate, Im an ebay king JE Pistons Eagle Rods ARP Rod Bolts $1100del. ACL main, rod, thrust bearings $200del. ARP Main Studs $200del. Bore work (for 86, 86.5 or 87mm pistons), assembly etc would cost what, another $500, a grand, or more? Whilst Id like to have a fully forged engine for dropping into the Stagea down the track, this is for sturdy & reliable trackday duties only for 5yrs or so maybe best to see how the stock bores & rings are as Kiwi says....... could always go forged pistons upon a strip-down in half-a-dozen years time prior to going into the road car ie RB30 bottom end with Wiseco piston kit, 2860 -5's etc cheers

Yeah 5k tops, decent price for a long-time friendly non-pushy customer. Plus Im on a disability pension so I need "best price no rush" service. The turbo's are an unknown, under 2000kms (1 week of trips in Melb then I bought the car, drove to Adelaide & parked it, stripped now ready for track work) bush bearing steel wheels highflow jobbies, good for 1.1 to 1.3bar around Mallala Id imagine Looking for 1.20min track times, probably 400kw engine so around 330rwkw Weak link above 300kw at the rears would be the current single-puk clutch (unknown brand) and RB20 gearbox, however around the track it shouldnt be an issue for a number of trackdays at the least I would think The quoted works involves leaving the pistons/rods in the block - so my query was whether they should be pulled out and re-ringed, or new pistons & rod bolts, or dont touch..... Thinking now I wont worry until the condition of the piston rings & bores are known. IF I did buy new pistons, rings, arp rod and main bolts; What extra works are involved for setting up and installing? What sort of extra do$h would that potentially co$t? cheers

Heya Going to send off my manual R32 sedan with RB26dett for an engine freshen up, bolt-on the goodies Ive collected, setup and tune for Mallala trackdays. Eventually in halfa dozen years Id like to drop the engine into my Stagea, but thats a fair way down the track. Hope to get out to 4 full track days per year beforehand. For now though Im sending the car in to Boostworx to have a fair bit installed. Already has: . freshly rebuilt highflowed turbos . 600x400x100mm FMIC kit . 5Zigen 3" turbo back exhaust . GTR intank fuel pump . 550cc Siemen Denso Injectors, new O-rings, seals . Yellow Jacket coil packs . ASI 52mm dual core alloy radiator . Z32 Airflow metres . Power –FC & Hand Controller Installing: * Apexi hardpipe intake kit * ATI 600hp Harmonic balancer damper & pulley kit * N1 water pump * HKS oil pump * Tomei oil baffle sump plate kit * Tomei oil gallery orifice * Twin HKS split dump pipes * OBX tuned-length manifolds * OBX flex front pipe into 3" resonator decat pipe * Turbotech manual boost controller * Walbro 305LPH external fuel pump * 4 litre fuel surge tank, 5m braided lines, speedflow fittings * Fuel pressure regulator kit * 1L Oil catch tank with mini-airpod filter breather * Oil filter relocation kit with speeflow fittings * Oil cooler finned 30-row unit, speedflow fittings * Oil pressure & temperature metres, EBCR exhaust gas temperature gauge * AEM wideband sensor gauge kit * Apexi Multichecker * ARP Head stud kit * Cometic Street Pro 87mm MLS head gasket * Nissan full gasket set * HKS step-2 valve springs * Greddy N1 Street Special camshafts * Greddy timing belt * Precision adjustable intake & exhaust cam gears * Drive key, tensioner & idler bearing kit The workshop I'll be using suggests the following: "To fit the Gasket set and the crank collar means full strip down except we will leave the pistons and conrods in the block, The crank will be sent out to be machined for the collar fitment and we will polish it to set bearing clearance, We will fit new ACL Race bearings to mains and Rod bearings as they usually suffer in the RB26 pre baffle life. The head will be sent out to be stripped and fit the cam springs and cams re do valve clearances, I would suggest re seating the valves at this time to ensure the best seal and set up with new Valve stem seals, we may have to do additional machining to the head for lobe clearance if required dependant on the lift of your cams, we will fit the oil cooler and surge tank etc refit to the car and tune her up. Engine R&R with strip down clean, clearance and assemble parts listed Crank machine for collar fitment and linish bearing size Cylinder head Recondition with fitment of your springs and cams valve clearance set plus lobe clearance to head ACL race main bearings ACL race conrod bearings Poss oil pump gasket and rear seal for crank shaft sundry parts Fit surge tank and plumb your braided hoses for memory and wire external pump Remove front bumper to fit oil cooler assembly Tune on Dyno Power FC If we go ahead with the work I will do the tune at no cost, The engine whilst apart if we see need for any further work we will let you know to give you the best poss engine life, I will also throw in an additional oil drain kit from the back of the cylinder to the sump good idea for track use on RB26" I had to sell-off HKS pistons, rods, bearings & main studs to pay bills; to do this above work I'll be selling the house (separated, time to move on) & using a little of what I'll get from the split. Question is Should I be buying ARP Main Studs and either NEW stock piston rings, or use some new CP/Wiseco Pistons & Rings with ARP2000 rod bolts to the stock rods, or get a piston&rod kit in full? Not sure if its best now, seeing the engine is pretty much going to be pulled down, to upgrade to new pistons&rings, perhaps rods, or just leave it be as per the builders advice above. If on a limited budget (the above will be between $4-5k total) would you add in another $2k for a piston kit, leave it alone, or allow an extra $500 to supply & fit new stock rings for the build? cheers, thoughts appreciated.

marc, to win the daytona race get to front asap then simply use your rearview mirror and block when appropriate. think like a racecar driver.....

hmmm? no, 98k for ONE 5lap race. Indy, American Musclecar, bottom left next to gran turismo championship races 5laps takes 3.45min in a Ford GT LM race car 5laps = $490,000 and all fresh cars for sale in the used car lot easiest way to get ca$h for cars

put in 11 litres of e85 took the kidlings to see some xmas lights, in the hills on decel had massive flamage happening a different sort of xmas light show.

the a-spec nascar race wasnt that hard, get to the front and keep them behind (use rearview to check positions) flipped a few time trying tho. best flip, and win, was with my lime green R35 GTR with red TE37's up to level 27 aspec and 14 bspec, 80odd% of the game completed, time to go indy racing today! waiting for the formula gt car to come up for sale was a pain.... can earn 98k on daytona for a 3.45min 5lap american muscle race, do 5 races then check the for sales. buying up all the rally and race spec cars atm but looking for a usa 2JU 70's race car, havent seen one in the classifieds yet best car Ive got would be the Nissan R89C, the formula GT car is too cart-like, got to 'mild' down the turning settings to get comfortable with it

I had an safc with my C34 S1. went from 110rwkw stock to 120rwkw with apexi pod filter, 10psi & catback 120 to 140rwkw with apexi safc, bosch 040 pump & dump/front pipe 140 to 160rwkw with trust intercooler, z32afm and sitc 160 to 180rwkw with slide highflow turbo 180 to 200rwkw with apexi safc, sitc & toshi remap ecu 200 to 220rwkw - took OFF the safc/sitc and installed & tuned AEM Fic-8 fuel ignition controller 220 to 250rwkw added gt30 turbo and s15 injectors easily adjusted via $100 dell c400 laptop, fast'n'furious style wideband manageable as well. better than ultimate emanage...../ the AEM Fic-8 is an excellent alternative to the greddy emanage & apexi safc/sitc combo WHAT IT DOES AEM’s F/IC 8 is a PC-programmable piggy back controller that allows users to retard timing and add fuel to virtually any 4 and 6 cylinder engine - even on variable cam timing engines (VTEC, iVTEC, VVTi, MiVEC, etc). The F/IC works in parallel with the factory ECU and allows vehicles with CAN-BUS to retain the full functionality of the climate controls, cruise control, dash, and other components of the network. WHY YOU WANT ONE If you have boosted your factory engine, or plan to in the future, the AEM F/IC is an affordable alternative to a stand alone engine management system that still allows for powerful tuning. The F/IC can work with either factory or larger aftermarket injectors, and can even clamp a factory MAF so you can run boost with your stock mass air flow sensor. This allows someone with an OBD-II vehicle to easily and safely add a turbo or supercharger to their vehicle yet still maintain every day driveability. PRECISE FUEL DELIVERY The F/IC intercepts the signal to the stock injectors, allowing the user to modify pulse-width by +/-100%. The F/IC is among the only piggy-back systems that can decrease injector pulse-width, allowing the user to drive larger aftermarket injectors* while still maintaining proper air / fuel ratios. This powerful system can also tap into the factory injector signal and work independently to drive up to six (6) additional injectors. TIMING RETARD CONTROL The F/IC can retard timing from the factory system based on engine RPM and load inputs. This is achieved by intercepting and delaying the outputs from the cam and crank position sensors to the engine- with no adverse affect on applications equipped with variable cam timing. SENSOR CALIBRATION & CONTROL The F/IC can also be used to recalibrate / clamp the MAF sensor, eliminating common problems with non-boosted factory MAFs. The on-board MAP sensor allows for proper fueling in boosted conditions. PRODUCT FEATURES Works with latest OBD-II race vehicles including those with variable valve timing Variable valve timing controller based on engine RPM and load Injector inputs with simulated injector load used when remapping OEM injectors Injector controller for either remapping of ECU output (+/- 100% trim) or as a stand alone extra injector driver 21x17 maps with configurable load and RPM breakpoints Analog in/out for remapping/clamping MAF F/IC can draw power from PC USB for quick and easy calibration changes - even when it's out of the car! On board 64K datalogger Drives high or low-impedance injectors with use of Peak & Hold Injector Driver Box Up to five channels of timing retard On board 41PSIA (25PSI boost) manifold pressure sensor

nice. about time the issue (automobile park) was taken seriously. baby steps first coming to a toddle soon I hope!

attessa repairs cost 4k+ I dont see how it is worth it, buy a manual rwd s2 instead! but, each to their own. awd = safer cornering

good game = fun. havent worked out how to put different tyres on front/back going to need to setup a wheel at some stage, controller stick is too hard for some of the special stage events

the last time I used liberty ethanol premium (on way to p/up momo wheel from mike) I put in half a tank, ran it dry and didnt boost it much. seemed down slightly on punch/power and a little iffy, wasnt comfortable with it seeing my Fic-8 piggyback & remap is tuned for premium 98 (I use mobil, bp or shell) after the half tank was used up, next tank of premium went in under 200kms, same with tank after that. fuel economy went shithouse. ripped out the fuel filter and replaced, fresh tank of 98, and got 420kms before the low fuel warning light came up considering she used to get 420kms per tank with 120awkw, happy that its around 400kms with 240awkw will try the liberty ethanol blend again soon, to clean out the carbon deposits, soot, etc, and replace fuel filter again afterwards. definately clogs up the filter!

had a black s2 260rs, but sold it to fund boltons for the bugati veyron, 1200hp