Tangles

plz, try the search function there are some massive threads on this topic very indepth

sweet south isnt that bad - what suburb? also, man that chick in your avatar makes me crack a phat

turbo sold pending payment selling Intake manifold incl.2x 700cc injectors plus HKS AIC-iv additional injector controller see signature for link, price, details etc suit rb25det, fits rb20det and can fit rb26dett with modification (shortening the intake pipe)

sold pending payment cheers

BUMP NEW PRICE $400 the LOT. delivered or pickup cheers this is for the Intake Manifold, 2x 700cc Sard injectors, and the HKS AIC-IV additional injector controller bargain

for sale Slide Highflow Turbo $500 see here for photos: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sl...bo-t268031.html cheers, PM me if you wanna have a look/see

mine was done mail order too. Toshi went to the dyno straight away and tuned the SAFC around a bit, made a vast difference in the end

no for sale is the turbo only you'll need to either use your stock oil line, a .8mm drill bit and open up the restrictor before bolting on (search sliding performance high flow turbo pics - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sl...formance+turbo) or you'll need to purchased a new oil line my oil line is buggered, trust me you dont want it..... its been bolted on/off/on/off a few times, & being far too tight its cracked. thrown away.

well Im too tall for anyone to go jumping over my back. got to show sympathy where it's due, so for you little people I'll get down to make you feel adequate

was on Stagea rb25 auto, stock injectors, safc/sitc/fmic/040 fuel pump/exhaust got 206rwkw sliding performance listed these turbos at 250rwkw @ 1.1bar definately no lag, was same as stock turbo but a hell of a lot more punch, and sounds pretty whooshy too made a huge difference to the engine, this turbo is how the stock nissans should have been made. stock water lines should be a M24 bolt so yes they will fit oil line is a M17 bolt and I made a braided unit. the stock one will fit BUT you'd have to derestrict the oil line slightly with a .8mm drill bit as this turbo needs more oil than the stock turbo for sale is the turbo only, no lines no other bits. bolts onto rb20/25. search around this site "sliding performance highflow turbo 2006" for pictures on the oil line modification with manual gearbox, bigger injectors, power-fc & support mods Id say the turbo should pull 230-240rwkw cheers

didnt realize that was a thumb you had poking out waiting for a hitchhike thought it was a little stumpy, and an invite !!

3yrs old 18,000kms needs oil line and requires an actuator bolts onto standard water lines checked over by Bill at ATS (marion rd, adelaide) and said to be in top notch condition seals are said to be all good same goes for bearings and shaft play is near non existent great for an RB20 good on an RB25 $500 pickup $550 delivered Australia-wide

as for the other mods, I gotta admit, whatsisname is hands down much more "hunier" than sled so we have heslo - your skinny kinda gay guy whatsisname - buffed manly gymer, guys only gym, I bars the hot tub !!! andrew - for those cold winter mornings, snuggles !! and then Sled coming up the rear

actually, Heslo is kinda cute andrew doesnt do it for me, nice fella of course, but a little too cudly for my liking, too much stubble-rash heslo looks like he goes like a energizer-bunny

sir I can assure you it depends on the ecu model and NOT the neo or non-neo engines due to differences in ecu models there are differences in loom wiring series 1 has 3 or 4 different ecu's, some work with the power-fc others need more configuring. mine was pretty much plug and play yes, certainly other mods are required to get a S1 and a R34 GTT P-fc to work.

nup, plug and play depends on the actual series build of the ecu itself. not the neo engine or non-neo stuff. my feb 97 S1 ran with an R34 GTT power-fc. plus the secret squirrel trick

R34 GTT with the ecu-pin54 engine light trick

cost of headwork varies between how much you get done overall. I went for an adjustable exhaust cam gear wheel, Tomei 256/256 cams, Tomei 8.8mm valve springs, 87mm x 1.2 Cometic headgasket + all other gaskets, valve guides/seals/etc, $2500 in new parts plus another $2000 for porting and machine work, installation, rundown testing, tune etc full potential has been held back, but ready to unleash the beast within awaiting my GT30r bb-iw turbo right atm, hopefully pickup and start installation this arvo. with that on, serviced with new fluids, redoing/cleaning/heat-wrapping intake/exhaust pipes, will get a tune in a few weeks, expecting a very meaty two-fiddy

+1 6

Cara - I honestly suggest from the bottom of my heart & soul, rethink the engine plans a properly prepped RB26DETT would be so much more interesting, practical, affordable, and would suit the project 1000 times better IMHO

meh havent seen a real race champion since Mick Doohan F1 needs M.Doohan to get behind the wheel

Gave Bill @ ATS some stuff I bought for a credit - this included: a new garrett metal 16g comp wheel & td05h turbine shaft set, new ceramic ball bearing shaft pack, dead gt2871 core housing & a complete dead R33 turbo. My costs on the new parts were $249usd and he's very kindly agreed to put this gear on his shelf for a credit His price for oil line, water line adapter and custom GT30 turbo was around the Two & a half thousand mark, less credit I'll be paying them 2grand, maybe slightly more. We havent come to an actual final figure but I kept saying for around 2g cash + parts Id order it, so we'll see . . .

damn, sorry guys gals but cant make it today

the actuator is plumbed up correctly the thing for you to do now is this: either cheap fix or buy SplitFire Coilpacks cheap fix is to buy a tube of Selleys Industrial Strength Silicone Sealant #401 400c heatproof, $15 including a corking gun from a hardware store take off the coilpacks from ontop of the spark plugs, and use the silicone sealant all around the coil packs to stop wasted spark once dry reinstall and test if not fixed then you'll need to replace a faulty coilpack or go out and buy a new set - $500 for Splitfires then you really should purchase a SAFC at the least to allow control over the ecu for air and fuel adjustments. ie fix the coilpacks, cheap or expensive way, grab a ecu of some sort (safc, unichip, remaped ecu, emanage, vipec, power-fc, haltech, etc) cheap or expensive, and get a tune

Ive left it in ATS's hands to build my garrett gt30 using a large 6bolt nissan housing (modified op6 I think) and front 45v3 housing, highly modified plus longer snout they rate it at 270rwkw and stated several times on different days, different employees, that it had FAR less lag than the GCG equivalent highflow turbo. will post specs and details when I get the GT30 next week with new lines.