MLCrisis

+1 for Imports 101. I got my R34 GTR V Spec II through them. They have done all the work on it, including fitting all parts (whether I sourced them or they did), paint, tuning and regular servicing. They have recently provided me with a great deal on an engine swap - nothing wrong with the original, but they offered me an N1 R34 crate engine with HKS V-Cam system. The care and workmanship they have put into fitting this engine has to be seen. If you want to see it - pm me. They are in East Vic Park (take Oats Street off Orrong Road). They also serviced my previous car for the last year I had it and did a great job, even though it was not one they had imported. Cannot speak highly enough of Danny and his team. They are all enthusiasts and treat your car as if it was their own. Cheers.

Hi, I bought my first Skyline from them in Jan 2003. I reckon I got a good deal and they serviced the car for me for the next two years. Overall I was happy with it. The kilometres were low. See pm. With any import dealer, or even private seller, if they have bought the car through the Japanese auctions, which is 90% certain, then ask them for the auction sheet, which will give the vehicle number (which you can check against the plate in the engine bay) and the kilometres at time of auction. These should be reliable. Now I would not buy an import without seeing the auction sheet and any service record since coming to Australia. If they won't show you the auction sheet, or a service record and log books from Japan, I would not buy it. You may choose to go ahead, knowing the kilometres have no provenance, but you inevitably take a risk doing so, especially when it comes to the !00,000 km service, when you need to change the timing belt. Maybe just change the timing belt when you buy the car and ignore the kilometres. Cheers.

Try Imports 101 in East Vic Park. They are very close to a train station. More importantly, they really know Skylines (and other Jap turbo cars) and do great work. Very thorough and pay attention to detail - which you can see if you want to look in my engine bay! Cheers.

Simple. F#ckwit lives in Albany - maybe even recently moved there. Has f#ckwit friends in Perth. Comes up to Perth to see f#ckwit friends. At end of weekend, steals car to go home. Steals radio to pay for next trip (paying one way, of course). A F#ckwit Weekend!

Hey, Kelvin. Only just seen this, as I have not been on the forums much lately. Glad it has been found and I hope there is not too much hassle in getting it back up here and getting it fixed. So sorry to see it has happened to you - everyone has said such a nice car, but such a great guy too! Life ain't fair, at times. GPS Alarm - the type that phones you when things are awry - I know that Danny at Imports 101 can get them fitted ... ... .... ... which I might just be doing very soon! It sounds like the back of the truck to a good workshop fior a thorough check is the go. They sound like they were f#ckwits, but check they did not put sugar in the tank or any crap in the engine oil. If the Power FC is gone, I have the factory ECU from mine, which you could borrow, if that helps at all. All the best, mate. Cheers.

This check was one of the first done, so it ain't a mechanical problem. So one option is to go for another controller - and if I am to do that I might as well swap out the Power FC for a Haltech, which would include all of the cam control direct. That is an expensive option, but is certainly a way to go. To avoid unnecessary expense, we want to understand why the HKS Valcon is not doing what it should do, when all inputs and outputs appear to working.

It seems I have been barking up the wrong tree. The workshop have demonstrated that the signals "in" are all functioning. They have also demonstrated that the Valcon controller is sending an output signal, but that output signal is not the one, or value, we want, when we want it. So it seems the problem is in getting the controller to follow the map that has been entered. Hence, the desire to speak to someone who knows the Valcon controller, when programming it without an F Con Pro. They have also checked the solenoid on the cam mechanism, and that is OK. Adriano - the V-Cam system is on the intake cam only, as the exhaust cam is already controlled by the ECU from factory. Cheers.

Your input is much appreciated guys. I am checking a few things with the workshop, but it seems that they have checked the wiring is connected correctly for an R34 and they have hooked up meters to read the signals in real time. I have suggested they try the stock ECU again (so I will have to pull that out of my shed!). Thanks again.

Manuals attached. 22007_AN001002_VALCON_RB_V60210.pdf 22007_AN002AN003_VCAM_S1_RB.pdf

Hi, guys. I have recently had an R34 N1 motor fitted to my R34 GTR V Spec II, along with Garret -5 turbos and a few other bits and bobs. The motor came from Japan with an HKS V-Cam system fitted. The car is running a Power FC with hand controller. We are having problems setting the V-Cam up, as it is not controlling through the rev range. It starts to make a change and then just goes to the end of the scale. The workshop have tried everything and are scratching their heads. They have demonstrated the potential with runs with full retard and full advance, but for some reason it won't follow the map entered. I know nothing of the details, but I wondered if the Valcon controller is looking for a feedback signal that the Power FC is not providing. Maybe? One question the workshop are looking to answer is whether the Valcon output is in the 0 to 5 volt range or 0-12 volt. (I probably got that wrong - this is beyond my limited knowledge! ). We have the English translations of the installation and set up manuals, which are not exactly straightforward or unambiguous. Can anyone point us at someone who has experience of these things, or specifically of running the V-Cam with a Power FC. The workshop really need to talk to someone about it. They have already been on the phone to Abbey Motorsport in the UK quite extensively, but the Abbey guys have not set one up with a Power FC before. A contact in Japan would probably be best. When all is said and done, the Valcon is supposed to be just a cam controller and should work with any brand computer - in theory. Any and all thoughts would be appreciated. Cheers.

Your link is for an R33. Do you have them for the R34 GTR? Dos has a V Spec and I have a V Spec II, so I am not sure if the rear carbon undertray will make any difference to fitment either. Cheers.

True ... ... .... to a point. WASCC's Tuning Days are also recognised by the club as a means of allowing members to take their street cars on to the track in controlled conditions. There are usually one or two instructors there who you can ask to come around with you. They are a great help! If you are unfamiliar with the track, or have not been for a while, a couple of laps with them is essential. Cheers.

Koyo radiator is sold (and already fitted in a very nice R32 GTR in WA). Thanks to Dazmo for answering for me about the horsepower rating. Regarding how much meat is left on it, it is barely used. It is as near as dammit brand new. Thanks for helping out with the info, mate. Much appreciated. Cheers.

Just to confirm, for those who are window shopping: Freight of the motor from WA to the East coast would cost between $250 and $350, depending on where you are. All pretty straightforward. Regarding the engine loom, I can provide an engine loom, if required - with suitable modification for the CAS for R32 or R33 cars. It will cost me, so I will have to pass on the cost - will need to check price, depending on the model and CAS. I am using my BNR34 engine loom in my car. I am advised by the workshop that you can happily use an R32 or R33 engine loom with this motor. Running an R32/33 loom even provides some benefits, as this allows you to use any readily available ECU, where as the BNR34 one is harder to get, less options and more expensive. This engine and loom will run off a STD BNR32 or BCNR33 computer and loom with no trouble. Hope that helps. Cheers.

Koyo Radiator SOLD - pending payment - to the man in the blue shirt!! Carbon twin plate clutch still available. Cheers.

Hi, Sorry it took a while to come back to you. Just to let you know that it would only cost about $50 to send this by freight with someone like Smartsend. You can get a quote on line from them, or if you would like me to do that for you, just tell me what postcode I would need to send it to. Also pm sent. Again, sorry for late reply. Koyo radiator dimensions are: 460 high from mount to mount, 660 wide and 50mm thick. Also pm sent. Cheers.

We can get it shipped to the East coast, no worries. Several of the freight companies, such as Smartsend, can give you a quote online for sending an engine. Let me know if you need me to get a quote - but you will need to tell me where you are and which post code it needs to be delivered to. Also pm sent. Steve, I will check with the workshop. I take it you are looking for a BNR34 wiring loom - is that correct? Also, please let me know where you are - it may help if you came into the workshop to discuss your needs. Otherwise, send me your mobile number via pm. Also pm sent. Cheers.

Hi, if you want to import one, go to Danny Fisher at Imports 101. I know he is busy at the moment, but that is because he is good! If you want to buy one from over East, exercise caution! There are some backyard dealers over there who are looking to rip people off, especially interstate buyers. You need to look at the language they use in their ads. I would be dubious about the two Bayside Blue cars for that reason. There are other hints about whether people are genuine. For example, many imports have their speedo clocked so the kilometres are reduced. So the guy selling the black one does not appear to have done that. Also the language he uses suggests he really is a private seller and an enthusiast - he knows the car. The mods on his car would cost you $15k to $20k to buy and install. If it has been well looked after (and it looks good) and if it has been tuned by a decent workshop, then you would be getting a well sorted car with 400 hp at the wheels. That figure with those mods, with 19 psi, is not pushing the envelope - they are safe levels. Ask him how many kms he has done in it, the car's history in Australia (did he import it?), receipts for servicing and parts, how many track days he has done. Meanwhile, the silver one - I would be very surprised if it is a genuine M-Spec. It would be a very unusual M-Spec for it not to have leather trim - that was standard. See this link: BNR34 M Spec Specifications The Nismo 320 km/hr speedo is aftermarket. It is possible that it was added by the dealer in Japan when it was delivered to its first owner, but I doubt it. So there is an unknown number of kilometres prior to that speedo going in. The guy says it is a Nismo car - it has Nismo sideskirts and the Nismo speedo. That's it. It does not have a full Nismo body kit - there are no rear quarter pods (rear under spoiler, to give them their proper name) and the front bar is standard GTR not Nismo. Also, the front bar is painted, because the diffuser is black as standard - not body colour. On the plus side, it does have the front diffuser and the rear carbon diffuser. I reckon it is a V-Spec - and so probably a 1999 or 2000 car, with an M-Spec badge on it. None of the pictures show the bonnet properly. If it was a genuine 2002 car, it would be a V Spec II which has the NACA duct on the passenger side of the bonnet (above the turbos). I am fairly sure that 2002 M-Specs also had a NACA duct, but I may be wrong. Some M-Spec owners in Japan asked for the carbon bonnet as an option. Be very careful of this car. The guy clearly does not know what he is talking about OR he is a backyard dealer who is deliberately getting it wrong, so that he has plausible deniability. "I did not know it was not an M-Spec really, your honor". With any of these, ask for the Japanese log books or the auction sheet, either of which would give you the kilometres when it left Japan. The black one is the most genuine car there and has everything you would want - a bit high on kilometres, but genuine. OR JUST BUY KELVIN's CAR - now that is a car that has been looked after! Cheers.

Just a thought for those of you who are window-shopping: There cannot be many RB26 motors for sale out there that come guaranteed by a reputable workshop and with a known history. Just a thought .... ..... .....

I will check and get back to you (it is at the workshop). It is thicker than standard. Cheers.

Thanks for the enquiry, mate. I really don't want to break this down. The motor is guaranteed as a package by the workshop who are doing all the work for me. So this is not your average RB26 from a front cut or a wrecker. Someone will want an engine with such a guarantee, I am sure. So it is not worth it to break it down. I am sure you can get a head and plenum elsewhere. Try some of the workshops - I can give you the details of the workshop I am using, if you send me a PM. They may have what you are looking for, without my engine attached!! Cheers, Brendan.

Thanks, mate! I shall tell him. If he doesn't want it, freight to Vic from Perth would not be that much - do you want to check it out? Cheers.

PM sent. Still would prefer to sell whole package. Cheers.

I was referring to the clutch there! Meanwhile, someone has asked me if the Koyo radiator, from an R32 GTR, will fit an R32 GTST. Can anyone help with that one? Thanks.

There seem to have been a load of half answers to your questions and a lot of other stuff besides. In an attempt to pull it all together, please allow me to summarise - and hopefully answer your questions: a) We don't get much rain here in WA. We also have loads of stone in the tarmac, so it does not melt in the heat. Deposits of rubber, oil and diesel/petrol residues build up on the tarmac/stone. Add water, via a passing shower, and it can become a skating rink in places. Roundabouts are particular favourites because people have fuel spillages and leave more deposits due to going around the corner. b) Someone already mentioned "classic lift-off oversteer". If you are in a corner and lift off the gas, the balance of the car moves forward. I believe that the science is that it actually moves forward at a tangent to your turn, so a component of the force acts to the side as weight lessens on the back wheels, so on slippy stuff they then slide out. c) If you have bald tyres, loss of traction is more likely. Some crappy makes of tyres don't perform too well in such conditions, even when they have loads of apparent tread. No tyres perform very well in such conditions. d) Bugger all to do with HICAS, especially in an R34 which is third generation HICAS. If you are a high performance driver, who has developed a feel for a car over years of driving, you may be able to notice when HICAS does something in a high speed corner. Otherwise, for mere mortals and average drivers (and by the laws of maths, the majority of us are average drivers), you will not be able to tell when HICAS is doing its magic, but like many of the electronic driver aids out there, it is almost certainly helping you. e) I would be surprised if you have any aggressive limited slip diff in your car. If it is factory, it may have a viscous LSD, not an aggressive mechanical one. So ignore that. f) If you have non-factory suspension, especially anything that is set rock-hard, then that would not have helped. All that rock hard suspension does is rattle your teeth, destroy the normal, everyday road-holding and give you bragging rights for the few track days you manage to get to. If you have factory suspension, then that ain't part of the problem. So, in summary: WA roads are very slippy in the wet; your tyres are worth checking; don't make any sudden control changes in a corner. Forget the rest. Hope this all helps. Cheers.