SkyDragon

I have reached that stage in life where I need a 4 door auto. Sticking to my skyline roots I am considering an R34 GTT sedan. I need it for practicality, but will modify for a bit of fun too. What are these cars like to drive on a daily basis? How is the auto box? What's it like when you have ~300rwhp? Responsive? What's the handling like? Any issues I should know about specific to this model? Looking for general feedback Cheers!

I would go S15 for her requirements. I have owned an RX7 and IMO you need to be somewhat of an enthusiast regarding the rotary engine. Lots of people get drawn in on the looks and uniqueness, however you dont want these factors alone to be driving your choice (unless you have plenty of $$!). Otherwise the RX7 is a great car. An S15 has an easy/well known engine configuration and is easy to service. Has she considered a WRX?

http://www.insideline.com/nissan/gt-r/2013...-the-works.html

After countless attempts at getting my R33 S2 Gtst to make good power, I am finally there and happy. It is making 360rwhp and drives like a dream. Prior to this it was making 305rwhp with similar mods. The real difference - the tune (tuner to be exact). Sometimes switching tuners makes all the difference....

R33 S2 HKS 2835 PRO S Nismo 555cc injectors Splitfire coilpacks HKS FMIC 3" Turbo back exhaust HKS Pod filter Intank fuel pump Wolf V500 ECU 359rwhp (268rwkw) @ 16 psi

Great little turbo, very responsive in the low revs. Good for the street in an RB25 IMO. I ran stock ecu and injectors with 11-12 psi and got 307rwhp. However I did have some jap piggy back unit hanging off my stock ecu which was probably just doing fuel/air. This seemed to be the max HP I could get out of the turbo, none the less the power was right where I wanted it (low range).

Based on feedback, looks like things I can check are; 1. BOV leak 2. Fuel pump voltage 3. FMIC However it sounds like I am on the right track with fuel injectors at least. I do not have AFR's from my last tune which was some time ago now.

johnnilicte, Interestingly I was getting 229rwkw with a HKS 2530 from 11 psi! I had the same mods excluding the wolf (I had piggy back ecu) Now I have a 2835 and wolf ecu and lost 2rwkw!

Already done - I have split fires Dunnno how that would be related. If ignition was not occurring correctly I would see inconsistency in boost/power levels. The car holds boost and power fine, just wont go above 227rwkw with current mods/tune

Apparently the stock injectors were in the mid 80% for duty cycle. The tuner said this was not the problem. He kept stating that the car began to ping when putting more timing into the tune indicating bad fuel (I was running BP 98) or bad compression? I did not get much in the way of feedback hence the reason I am not going back. I have had others point out that I should do a fuel injector upgrade which is what I am doing now, however tuner does not think this was the issue. I am just thinking if the timing was an issue then maybe cam gears, a new belt and resetting the timing may fix? However I dont really know what prob I am trying to fix! Thats the frustrating part!! Just looking for more power from the 2835. johnnilicte, I do not have a dyno graph with AFR's. Any other comments/suggestions?

Dyno chart attached 20090715163644.pdf

Opps forgot to mention that - I DO have an upgraded intank fuel pump

r31nismoid, I know there is no restriction with exhaust/dump/cat. This has been checked on a couple of ocassions now. Cant confirm 100% but I am pretty sure the bov is not leaking Cam timing is something I cannot confirm and this is the reason why I am considering cam gears as at least while the cover is off we can see if there is a tooth out or cam gears are worn. For the tune I need to trust the tuner and I didn't have 100% confidence in my last tuner, hence the reason for going somewhere else. The only feedback I got was that the car began to ping when putting more timing into the tune, hence no more than 227rwkw could be reached without risk of detonation. They told me it was either a timing issue (cams) or bad fuel. Based on this I guess cam gears may be a worthwhile investment? alltheway, my tuner is in WA. I am using a different tuner this time round

Going in for a tune in the next month or so after a dissapointing result last year. Car is R33 gtst S2. My mod list includes; RB25 Stock internals HKS 2835 pro s HKS FMIC HKS pod 3 " turbo back exhaust hi flo cat Sard bov Wolf V500 ecu (using as boost control) With this setup I made 227rwkw. Expected at least 260rwkw. Boost is hitting 1.1 bar The difference in the next tune is I will have Nismo 555cc injectors. However I am debating on whether I should get some cam gears to allow for finer advancement/retarding of timing? If so should I get both intake and exhaust? Or just one or the other From reading the forums joeyjoeyjojo is making 270rwkw with a very similar (if not the same setup - except he uses exhaust cam gears). I do not want to return from the tuners this time with the same kw and waste more $$$. Info appreciated.

Gee I would hate to see what it does on the inside then - voiceover "press driver eject button - explosion imminent!!"

Yes definitely a fast R35 Anyone know why the hazard lights are always on the R35 when racing ?

ZR1, Carrera GT and modified 911 http://www.dpccars.com/car-videos-09/06-18...e-911-Turbo.htm

http://www.dpccars.com/car-videos-09/06-14...orvette-Z06.htm amazing what some exhaust pipes and a little boost can do.

Hey Guys, I have my prob sorted too. I was little confused about the nylon cup, however when looking in the gearbox I could see it. Gee you have to use a HEAP of body weight to get the sucker in. Puzzles me how it comes out?? The nylon cup was a little worn and probably could do with replacement. I will order one too and change it. Cheers for the info and thanks to works 510 for the part no

Mr Kotter, I did not see any circlip - maybe mines missing? I missed your quote earlier sorry mate. Sukai, I will have another look at this when I get it off again. Does anyone know why this happens? Poor shifter? I would have thought better of Nismo. Thanks for the info guys, appreciated.

Great background info mate, however I am after a solution this doesn't answer my question. Anyone know how to fix? Cheers.

Hey all, Searched the forums and this is as close as I have come to my problem. I have a Nismo shifter in a 33gstst. For some reason whenever I am giving it a squirt and hitting around 6krpm or above and change from 2nd to 3rd, or 3rd to 4th the shifter seems to pop out of its housing? And I cannot find any gears? The shift distance greatly increases (like factory) and the car pretty much becomes undrive-able. This has happened on a couple of occasions. The first time I took it to my mechanic and he just said the nylon bush needed replacing/repairing and it shouldn't happen again. Around 3 months later it has happened again. This time I took it apart myself, inspected and re-seated everything in hope it would be fixed, however no avail. Is this a common problem? Can anyone point me in the right direction to know how to fix this? Preferably permanently. Cheers, Greg