rinmak

Sorry about the late reply. Yes, you substitute the solenoid with the boost controller...as the solenoid essentially does the same thing just that instead of allowing more boost it actually limits your boost. You need to install the bleeder on the pipe going between your intake pipe (after turbo) and your wastegate actuator: http://image-cache.skylinesaustralia.com/f...-1130177360.jpg Its the pipe with the white joiner bit in the middle. By looking at your boost controller I would assume you would first plug the line into the nipple marked with the arrow, then plug the other end into the remaining nipple but if that doesnt work, try the other way around. Shouldnt matter anyway. Hope it helps

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This has been SOLD!

This has been SOLD!

Nah sorry mate abit too low

im guessing maybe $5 or so....PM me your post code and il find out.

Painted black because it was my old one and the lettering was all rubbed out, could barely read it. Looks good on a black 33.

bump...open to offers =)

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Dont know why the uploaded pics arent working but anyway you can find pics at http://bur.st/~rinmak/stealthfx All PM's have been replied!

Hi guys, Putting my line up for sale as I have another car now and have no need for it anymore . 1993 Nissan R33 Skyline Series 1 GTS-T Type M - Black - 5 speed manual - 120,000Km's - 3" Catback exhaust with cannon muffler - Blow off valve - Factory Type M Bodykit - "Stealth" rear wing - 18" Vault Kaotics - Alpine headunit - Subwoofer - HKS Intake - Laserline Alarm w/ immobiliser - Greddy Full auto timer (turbo timer + extras) Car is running factory boost (7 psi). Its an awesome car and has never let me down. Drives well and has heaps of power. Car is located in Perth WA (SOR). Please PM/call me with enquiries. Mobile: 0402 506 501. Asking $16900 (Make an offer!) Picture: Heaps more pics availiable at http://www.pbase.com/r33_dishn/inbox Interior photos availiable upon request!

Item: GFB Stealth FX BOV Location: Perth WA Item Condition: Very Good Reason for Selling: No longer needed Price and Payment Conditions: $300 Extra Info: Comes with adaptor for R33 Skyline. Complete bolt on! Contact Details: Ryan - 0402 506 501, will send interstate at buyers expense.

Your setup is the way it should be Wink, the way it was when your car left the factory. All the pictures on this thread except this one are horrible mutations (like mine ).

Where is it located?

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Mine does it aswell, goes away with revs but thats because the exhaust gets to loud to hear it i guess. Cant hear it when the cars cold & Continues even if the clutch is in. And it has happened ever since I had my timing belt changed....so I guess its just that. I was told it would improve over time...7000km's later its still happening. Oh well, cant be assed tensioning the belts again

I would have to say the s14 > the 33 only because its a series 2 R33. Personally cant stand the S2 fronts, the look so boxy and yuck. S1 for life ! Also, I dont rate that wing on the 33, only wing that suits R33's is a stealth wing IMO.

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Hey man, Bad luck In the end I replaced the inner and outer tie rods, the lower control arm & the tension arm. Take a look at outer tie rod (the piece circled in red and white), if thats bent...replace it. Then take a look at your inner one (the piece not circled on that bar, connects to the wheel hub) and check to make sure the bit where the ball joint is hasnt exploded or is leaking grease everywhere. If it hasnt, then luckily you can just replace the bent outer rod Also im assuming your lower control arm will be bent aswell (the bar in the pic with a hole in it). Need a new one of them. Also my tension rod (the bar that has 2 bolts connecting it to the lower control arm) was shagged aswell. It was *slightly* bent but mainly was leaking grease at the pivot end. All up heres what each bit cost me: Lower control arm: $120 (Japanese wrecker, rip off) Tension rod: $30 (Japanese wrecker, decent price) Tie rod outer: $97 (Genuine NISSAN) Tie rod inner: $130 (Genuine NISSAN) I could have got it HEAPS cheaper if I had have waited for parts to be sent from interstate private wrecks or sourced them from local wrecks but I needed the car back on the road ASAP so I forked out . Tips? Do the work yourself if possible. Most wreckers wont sell you the inner or outer tie rods individually (only as a whole steering rack), so look for a private wreck if you need them. Try to avoid new NISSAN parts at all costs - they are damn expensive. And yes, inner tie rods can be removed from the rack end. Its a standard thread, probly need an adjustable to fit around it though. Oh, and mark where the outer tie rod is up to on the inner one before you take it off, because when you put it back together, you will want it in the position again otherwise your wheel alignment will be all over the place. Its usualy a good idea to get a wheel alignment done once your finished anyway Also I've included an illustration of the whole steering system from an R33 showing individual parts etc....helped me out

Hi, I have this for sale as it is no use to me anymore and it may be of use to someone else. Its the rear garnish of an R33 Skyline. Originally was transparent (off a series 1 I think) but I have painted it gloss black. It comes with the four nuts necessary to fit it. It looks like its scratched in the pic, but its just the light. Lets say....$20 ono? Willing to send interstate at buyers expense. Pics:

No stock BOV's left aye?

Hey guys, Need a factory BOV off of an R33 skyline. Anyone who has installed an A/M one recently and wants to make abit of money, PM me!

Auto or manual?