rinmak

Dont have the number in front of me but its a pink label if that helps

As above. Willing to post etc $80 Can come with plug if you need it to. PM me. Cheers, Ryan

Nissan will sell them? Might cost a bit but if you need the factory ones for some reason then.......

What exactly does a mechanical tune entail? Hope it doesnt cost much

Still bloody cheap. If top racing charge you more than $200 in labour fixing the idle problem then something is seriously wrong with them.

From memory there is a cable coming out of the firewall that actuates on to that valve.

Pretty sure I had to loosen the support and take it out through the bottom. Not 100% though bud. You seem pretty handy anyway, you'l figure it out

When I was doing mine I didnt have to remove the AC unit. Its a bit of a pain but yeah - do able EDIT: If you unbolt the metal lines then the pressurized gas in the AC system will come out. Not reccomended

Not really sure aye, the car was stashed at my girlfriends house and I just worked on it whenever I was staying there. Probly all and all ide budget for about half a day of work going at a normal rate. Could manage < 2 hours if you were hammering it.

Its orright. Ide check with this guy first: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...Sh-t238834.html Looks like hes wrecking so im sure he will have one. PS make sure you leak test the new one before you put it in that would suck otherwise

Yeah ive done it before with one of mine. Means u have to take the entire dash surround out which is a prick of a job, then getting the heater unit itself out isnt all that fun either. Actually replacing the core itself is easy enough though Nothing that you can do wrong really its all very straight forward.

When I did mine (rb25) I went over it with some fine grade sandpaper and it got the block looking really good. The head I had machined as I wouldnt trust scraping away at the head (being a softer alloy could dent it easily). That said, the car still isnt running so I cant say how well it has worked. Would be interested to hear if others have used the sandpaper method as well?

All I know about the engine conversion is that it was done a long time ago and I believe it was by hyperdrive? Dont quote me on that though not 100%. I was there when my friend bought it and the owner at the time said the previous owner (old guy, like 40's) did the conversion. Yeah the heater hoses just needed to be connected up - glad some one finally got around to doing that!! As for the idle....my friend never looked in to that. He didnt really change the car much except for removing some stickers. So glad its finally gone to a good home - I felt sorry for the poor thing when that asian dude drove off with it =/ Ryan

Also chasing a intake side one breather fitting as well...if anyone else has one? PM me

Dude thats a f**king steal. My friend bought that car about a year ago for 13k.....then he sold it to some clueless asian bloke apparently which I assume is the person u bought it from? Apparently he almost burned the clutch and drained the battery trying to get out of my mates driveway haha. But nah that car is (or was) f**king clean and the engine is good just needs the shit around it fixed like the idle control

Im sure you would have figured it out by now but for the sake of other people in the same situation: There is only one hole in the top of the gearbox and thats the one that the shifter clips in to. You need to remove the circlip and shifter and then fill through that hole

It has a bov and intercooler so I think its safe to assume its GTS-t

I think I have this one bro. Will double check tonight if you want. I bought it from nissan ages ago as I ordered the wrong hose and they wouldnt let me take the other shit without taking this one as well. Let me know if your still chasing

Doesnt MAP require an air temp reading as well that it uses to calculate the final air flow figure? There would be no input/function inside a regular PFC to calculate this.

Looks like the cars for sale now peeps: http://my105.com/Classified.asp?id=10328&exfeature=1

Problem with that is what if you want to crab walk (aka crawl forward) while doing a burnout. Ide rather have to heel toe it and be able to do rolling burnouts than a boring stationary one Ps. Installing one of these at the moment. Watch the fittings you put in to them cos they are american and require a special tapered fitting to seal properly. Got an adaptor from a brake parts store but not before I wasted time trying to make my own lines.

Yeah, N1 models came with N1 blocks standard And AFAIK there is no way to tell via engine number

Should have "24U" stamped on the exhaust side of the block near the front turbo. You will have to get under the car with a torch probably Normal RB26 will just be "05U" from memory.

Well its basically another clutch swap mate....so whatever he charged you for that + the cost of a new clutch kit. Your better off buying a kit as it will come with everything you need just make sure you get one with a high clamping force if you like the pedal to be stiff.

Its not the clutch disc that determines how heavy the pedal is, its the pressure plate and even more specifically the diaphragm spring (they usually come as one unit). If he just changed the clutch plate then the weight of the pedal wont change at all. What you need is an upgraded pressure plate with a greater clamping force.