rinmak

Il try the heat wrap for now. If it starts to come off then il just rip it all off and run it bare. I think 6boosts have some kind of coating on them anyway?

Oh well ive installed it with just the thin washers on the bottom row of studs....seems ok to me. If any other RB/6boost users have a comment then please post it up

Hey guys, Did you use the fat washers when installing your 6 boost mani? I cant see any possible way I can get the fat washer, the thin washer and then the nut on any of the bottom studs as the runner gets in the way. I can get just the thin washer in there so will this be ok? Quick replies would be loved as im doing this right now Thx Ryan

Any updates on this Trent? I would like to order one eventually!

Anyone ever had a Buddy Club Spec II system on their RB? Would love to hear what it sounds like. Look up a picture and you will understand why

+1 I will be very keen on one once I can see how the lack of VCT affects power delivery

Hey Trent, say you were to send me one here in WA...what are my chances of getting it tuned properly over here?

Cheers fellas Anyone know its original purpose...just out of curiosity?

Hi all, Putting a 25 in my S13 and I think i left this on the now disposed halfcut. It sits in between the return from the fuel rail and the tank on R33's. FAST describes it as a DAMPER ASSY. Do I need it? Cheers,

From memory its an 8" rim from factory so 235/45/17 will fit very nicely. Get the 40 profile if you can though. Costs a bit more but looks nicer and less sidewall flex

Same tailshaft can be used BigC ^^^

Eeeek...in hindsight I really should have got the sprung plates. Oh well I guess ive just got to train myself NOT to clutch kick and to slip the clutch as much as possible hahah. Sooner I can wear out these discs the sooner I can get some sprung ones in (cant justify swapping them yet )

No can do buddy. The dealerships use FAST to find out part numbers only. They then take that number and put it in a completely different system which controls their ordering/stock taking etc and I imagine that even if you could get the software on your PC you would still need to have a connection to the dealer network for it to be of any use.

Anyone got experience with an OS TS2B (steel cover twin, non sprung). What they like on a daily basis? The car aint running yet but just wondering what im in for hahahah Better not smash this box >.<

What ever the air tool manual recommends (usually 90psi). I wouldnt use a threadlocker on the bolt personally. I mean, the nissan manual suggests you use oil which is the opposite of a threadlocker so if they feel confident that it will hold then so do I As for the testing afterwards then yeah sure if you have a way to lock the motor then go for it. But knowing the strength of most decent rattle guns ide say you would be overtightening if you went any more.

Nah you could do it while the engine is full of oil. Just let it sit for 1-2 hours so its all in the sump and you will be fine

Sorry to bring back an old thread but after reading this I think I may have tensioned my belt incorrectly. My question is....I havent technically started the motor since putting the belt on about 8-9 months ago....its probably done maybe 10 full rotations by hand since its been on. Would this belt be ok to re tension do you think or should a new one be installed? Cheers, Ryan

Greenline.jp Cant be bothered checking how much $$$ they are but the cheapest you will find them brand new is via greenline in my opinion

Its a 27mm from memory? Well I know an RB25 one is at least.

The sandwich plate is probably fine you just need the thread on the bronze adapter to be longer/deeper. A fittings shop like enzed might be able to match something up that will work for you but I wouldnt bet on it. But to be safe I would just get a trust/grex kit. Just installed one the other day on my 25 and cannot fault it.

I would invest in a decent impact gun and compressor guys. You will end up using it for lots of other jobs so its worth it That way you can even have the car in neutral and crack a bastard tight crank pulley bolt without the engine turning one bit. When it comes to tightening just a few seconds with the gun and its all done. Should always double check it with a breaker to be sure however.

Also called flare nut spanners - just in case you have trouble finding em

PM Sent

Hi SAU, Not even sure if I wanna sell this yet but will if I can get around asking price for it. I bought it for a conversion a while ago but am thinking ide like something that accepts a MAP sensor instead. Basically its a brand new PowerFC and hand controller all still in the original packaging. Looking at $1600 ono Cheers, Ryan

$25 to your door. Im in perth