rinmak

My stag will stall occasionally as well. I just removed the factory BOV and put a block off plate in its place which has caused it to happen. Im thinking the ECU needs to be reset to it can learn how to deal with the air flow again but im too lazy to d/c the battery

My girlfriends car does this actually. Its a high pitched squeak, almost sounds like your starting to do a burnout each time you take off? After some troubleshooting we have basically put it down to a stuffed thrust bearing OR the shaft that the bearing sits on being dry (ie the people who replaced the clutch didnt grease it). We think this because if you squirt some wd40/silicone spray in through the clutch fork hole and aim it at the input shaft then the noise will go away for a day or so. Not a massive problem but its a box off job to fix properly. None of the spray on shit weve tried seems to hang around long.

Just did my highmount (6boost) and I didnt get much left from a 15m roll (75mm wide). The dump as well ide say budget around 25-30 meters ?

If thats the case then I appologise. I didnt realise there was an RB25 option availiable for the R32 but I suppose we learn something every day right

Just because you think it "goes hard for a 20" doesnt mean its an RB25 mate. Sorry but its just not right to false advertise.

RB25 would have variable cam timing on the intake cam but I dont see a bump in the rocker cover to accomodate this. Did you actually do the conversion work yourself or were you just told it was done? If its the later then I hate to say it but I think you were mis informed.

Sold cheers

Any pointers as to where to get the new fast CD's/software from fellas?

You will probably need to use an R32/A31/C33 crossmember if you are using RB30 mounts/brackets. Using R33 mounts on a 33 crossmember in an S13 seems to work fine as well. I have a pair of 33 alloy brackets and mounts if you want?

Bump...anyone....sk?

Thanks Gary. In regards to the missing bleeder, would it be ok to just tee off of the back of the thermostat (TS1) and have one line of the tee going to my turbo as a water feed then the other line can go straight up to be at about the height of the engine and will be used as a bleeder instead? This will then chop off all the throttle body/injector cooling shenanigans as im trying to cut down on piping to make the install look as neat as possible. Cheers.

Bump....can anyone shed some light on the questions above?

Thanks mate much appreciated. I didnt think it would be necessary at all Just need a few more things confirmed from some of the other gurus out there: * Is it ok to bypass the coolant that runs on top of the injectors? I guess it would serve the same purpose as what was said above but want to double check. * Also, is it ok to use the hose labeled "New turbo water feed" as a water feed for the turbo? Only asking as I dont know if it would disrupt flow...im only guessing with most of this stuff!! Cheers

Hi guys, At the moment I am installing a plazmaman plenum on my RB25 and I have a few questions about bypassing the standard cooling system setup for a much simpler one. At the moment the system goes like this: * Water in from just near thermostat * Goes up to the bleeder nipple where it is tee'd off * - - One side of the tee goes through the throttle body and then back into the block via the big water fitting at the rear (see pic label TB return) * - - Other side goes through the intake manifold just above the injectors then comes out again and then goes around and becomes the turbos water inlet. What I want to know is: 1. Can I bypass all of this and block off labels: IM1, TS1, and the other end of where IM1 gets its feed from (at the other end of intake manifold) 2. Once these are blocked, can I just run the bit labeled New turbo water feed to the turbo and will it work in the same way as before? 3. Obviously if it does then I will need to plug up the water inlet/outlet on the throttle body...is it ok to do this or is there a vital reason for water to go through the TB? 4. Since I wont have cooling running above the injectors anymore is this a bad thing? Or is the system just over engineered in the first place? Thanks for reading...hope it made sense!

Shit mate I hope that was a typo.....

Awww yeah Count in another Stagea more than likely....

Still doing this guys...any ideas?

Bump

Thanks mate, been doing some more testing with this. Basically, it only happens AFTER you rev the car out about (5-6k RPM). When you let off, a cloud of white smoke comes out the back then it goes back to normal. A friend has suggested it could be a problem with a breather in the cam covers. Its running a standard breather setup with standard hoses but the hoses are really old and crunchy. Looks like one of them has a valve/filter in it that I guess could be blocked (the small one that goes from the ex cam cover to the intake pipe) Any opinions/comments would be great cheers

Sold.

Hi Guys, Just replaced a turbo on a friends 25 as the turbo it came with was shafted. The turbo he got had only 60,000km on it and didnt have a worrying amount of shaft play in it (that said, there was the slightest amount). Anyway cars running really nice pulls well through all gears but when you really give it to the car you will get some white smoke coming out of the exhaust which smells like oil. Also after giving it, when you let off the smoke really starts coming out but it clears up pretty quickly and then its ok till the next time you boot it. Now im not sure if its doing it all the time and I just cant see it when im not giving it but im just after some opinions really. Anything that could cause a leak of oil/coolant (my money on oil) when the car is on boost only? Any advice appreciated, cheers

Go to an actual nissan car dealership mate - they have a parts department - and they have the o ring you need. Bout 10 bucks Make sure its that rubber o ring that leaking and not one of the hoses

Birnie, to my knowledge the late model series 2 motors only differ from other series 2 motors when it comes to the crank angle sensor. Everything else (including ignition) is the same. The model code for these is SF-DIS-005 and they will fit any Series 2 RB25 motor. Basically look at the back of your motor and if you have a big resistor pack there then these arent for you. If you just have a few wires/plugs then you have a series 2 motor and hence these will work. Cheers.

sold!!

Pm me your post code mate Il see if my local PO is willing to ship it and how much etc and make a decision from there! Edit: Post code = zip code