rinmak

Cant really comment on the 2 teeth you picked up but ide say if the changes were made from TDC then you should be ok (considering how much *safe* adjustment you can get out of adjustable gears) What exactly did you do to cause the problem? I only ask because I have a 25 and a 20 here both awaiting a new belt so I dont want to make the same mistake

Hi Everyone. I have an RB25 here that will eventually find its way in to my S13. Due to unforseen circumstances Im now considering taking the head off of it before dropping it in so im after some opinions on what to get done. Firstly, my goals for the motor - Turbo: GT35R 0.63 A/R Ex - Intake: Plazmaman plenum with (obviously) standard lower runners - Power target: 400rwhp - To be used on the track occasionally for drift (response), but mostly a street car until the cops catch me. - Motor has 80,000km's and compresion tested to 165 on all 6. Now I was thinking of getting the following done: - Surface decked - Intake & exhaust ports ported - - Is this necessary/beneficial? - The holes where the two snapped studs were need to be filled, drilled and tapped again. (kinda made a mess of them) - Poncams installed - More than likely some new springs - - What would you recommend? RB26/GTR springs? Do they bolt in - Head cleaned (i think they acid dip it right?) If anyone can suggest any other work they think I should have done when its out then please let me know. Also if you have any input (positive or negative) on the above points then please share. The main thing Im wondering about is the upgraded springs, because then I could sell of my baby poncams and try something bigger (safely)...right? Help!!! Thanks

Hi Everyone I have an RB25 sitting here on an engine stand at the moment waiting to be put into an S13. Originally I wasnt going to have any work done to the head besides a set of cams but in the process of removing the turbo I had two studs snap off in the end. Long story but because of this im now considering taking the head off and getting some work done to it. What I will want done: - Surface decked - Intake & exhaust ports ported - The holes where the two snapped studs were need to be filled, drilled and tapped again. - Poncams installed - More than likely some new springs - Head cleaned (i think they acid dip it right?) Now ive never had much luck getting quality work done by anyone other than myself and my friends so im a little skeptical about the whole thing. Can anyone here recommend a workshop or even a person in Perth who they know is reliable and does quality work? Thanks

Im keen on an 044 and bracket to suit mate

I thought so to, but another user (grigor) has PM'ed me this info. There is one 6mm bolt at the top of the pump that is placed differently in the Rb25's. Some slackers just leave it out and use the cheaper pump and extra sealant. Some guys buy the cheap pump and slot the hole to make it fit. There are even el-cheapo pumps that come slotted from China, one pump fits all. So if you've got an Rb20 or Rb26, you can go to Autobarn and pick up a cheap Rb30 pump as they're identical. But if you've got an Rb25, you need to go to Nissan or do one of the "modifications" mentioned above. Not me, I like to do a job once. It's a bit of a task removing all the timing belt gear to get at the waterpump which is why most owners replace the waterpump, tensioner and idler when they do the timing belt. Some will also do the cam and crank oil seals, but that really depends on the K's of the car. If this is true then il be getting the 25 one. The project/motor is sort of a no expenses spared kind of thing. While im here is it worth replacing the idler and tensioner bearings on a 80,000km motor? Anywhere other than nissan that I can get them? ($400+) Bearings on the motor still feel nice and smooth.

Hi Guys, Replacing the water pump on my RB25DET Nissan want $108 for an RB20DET pump, and $159 for an RB25DET pump. Is there any difference between the two? Can I just use the RB20 one or is there actually a difference hence the extra price? The part number is obviously different but I have always heard all RB pumps (bar N1) are the same Some clarification would be great! Thanks!

Im trying to decide if its worthwhile doing the head gasket on my car at the moment. If I was to replace it, it would be with a standard one I think. I am to make just under 300kw with the car so if anyone can suggest a better gasket then please do. Also, you need to replace the head studs when doing this yes? What should I use other than genuine nissan? Or should I just go genuine? Cheers

No idea. Havent got the time to find out sorry If interstate buyers are interested then all arrangesments would need to be made by them. All ide want to do is drive it somewhere, sign some paper and go home.

Bump

No idea man. I havent really got the time for that sort of stuff Only way I would sell interstate is if the money was in my account and all I had to do was drive it somewhere and leave it for a freight company

No idea sorry! Never had her on a dyno

Well if your in VIC then I doubt you will be buying it anyway, im in WA. No idea if the car would be legal for you sorry =)

Price drop to $11,500. Need it gone guys, no more room left!

$12,500

Up we go.

Cheers guys I think masking will be the way to go then If they look like shit then I can always go back and get it done properly!!

Beer Baron im starting to think thats the way to go....wheels are not an area where I want to compromise safety and im not very keen on the quotes ive had for respraying them so far ($600+).

Hey guys, Just bought some SSR Professor SP1 rims + tyres and I want to respray the center piece (spokes) a gloss black instead of the silver it is currently. I can see it just has bolts laced around the outside of the rim that bolt it in. I would need a special star shaped alan key to remove them but what im wondering is ..... is it as simple as unbolting and bolting back in once painted? Do I have to consider anything such as torque or tightening order? If so, help? Ta. Ryan

Pics of the nismo clutch to [email protected] as well thanks!

Yes, sounds like it. Connect that to the inlet of the boost controller and the outlet to your actuator.

Thats true, they are cheaper BUT you also need to consider that with that plenum you will need to also spend money on either a Q45 TB (150ish?) or the greddy adaptor plate which is $111 delivered on nengun at the moment. Also, dont quote me here but im not sure if you can run the standard fuel rail on the greddy plenum very easily (i think it needs to be modified) so most people then go for an aftermarket rail with top feeders instead. Dont get me wrong im sure the plenums are brilliant and will make just as much power as any other aftermarket item, but the cost factors above ended up with me just biting the bullet and getting a plazmaman item in the end for $1200 delivered. Just something to consider for potetntial buyers. There is actually a discussion on that because tests have proven that even with a genuine greddy plenum the furthest cylinders (5 & 6) run slighly leaner. You can read what SK has to say about it here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=23842 This probably happens with plazmaman as well due to the forward facing long nature of the plenum so dont think im singling out on greddy....just providing facts.

He would have meant the cam timing. Ignition timing is controlled by the ECU via the crank angle sensor which operates off the exhaust cam.

Bump Offers are more than welcome

Registration till Feb 2008 guys....

Forgot to mention it has an autowatch alarm and rego till Feb 2008. Negotiable on price guys, feel free to make an offer!