Rolls

Do they actually engine dyno it? Can you get it registered NA and then add the turbo?

Old thread but here is a great video explaining the benefits and showing the A/R changes.

Because most people run along the edge of the compressor efficiency curve. This means they get max turbo airflow in the midrange and also in the top end. If you get similar airflow at 5000rpm as you do at 8000rpm then this means reduced torque as you are sharing the same air over more combustion events, reduced torque means reduced power. Most factory turbo cars don't smash the boost in the midrange or max the turbo out, hence they can hold flat torque to redline. If they didn't then you'd see the typical huge midrange torque and dropping off at redline.

I wouldn't put it past someone actually doing this

Did it have the factory seal of approval or was it a "built" motor? I've seen and heard so many rebuilt motors go pop due to the guy only building 1 a year and doing something wrong. Something to be said for stock bottom ends, the guy at the factory did a shit tonne of them.

What was the result?

Looks like it would be laggy for a street car, with the appropriate gearing and clutch kicks ahoy should be interesting on the track though!

A lot of race teams and performance work shops use it. It is only the hot temperature that is thicker, it is still an SAE 10 oil at the colder temperature, if you draw a scale it will only be when it gets hotter that it acts like a thicker oil.

Interesting, so you find the volume of oil drops so much that your temperatures go up. This means that whilst you get the required pressure you end up having other issues. I guess it is always a balancing game.

For track use if you are seeing temps that high consistently I would be going a 10w60 eg the castrol fully synth. 5w30 is way too thin for a track car especially if you are doing track laps in the summer months.

The tyre thread is as useful as a toothbrush made entirely from ants..... You get people who have used one tyre ever giving it 8/10. How on earth can they rate if if they haven't used other tyres on the same car ins the same conditions as others? Useless thread.

I've found a 245f and 265r to give neutral handling, you can get a 265 on the front but you end up with the rims out the guard and it looks pretty silly.

Only on the BAs and Mk1 BFs, the rest all have upgraded valve springs from the factory that won't float until you get to 400rwkw Well then it is lucky you can fit 18x305 in the stock guard with only rolling it, I have 265s which hook up in first with over 300rwkw. Never turn traction control on unless it is wet and I don't have any issues.

Sold

Falcon that people in the US are jealous that they don't get.