Rolls

R32 GTS-T Front Lower Control arm Bushings.. then found my bushes were already knew, pedders just jerked me around and said to replace them all they are still new in the bag, kit number SPF1483K Selling at $120, they are about $140 ebay but postage is killer due to the szie of them Will consider postage but prefer pickup here in Adelaide. If you are interested send me a PM or give me a call on 0423 277 771 Cheers edit: Also have an R32 GTST rear subframe bushing kit available for $210 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/428771-sa-r32-rear-subframe-bushings-white-line-kit-210-unused/ and also stock r32 GTS-R 22mm D bushes for the sway bar which I will give away as they are only worth $7

I bought a super pro rear subframe bushing kit... then found my knocking was from somewhere else, they are still new in the bag, kit number W92447 Selling at $200, they are about $240 ebay Will consider postage but prefer pickup here in Adelaide. If you are interested send me a PM or call on 0423 277 771 Cheers edit: Also have an R32 GTS-TFront Lower Control arm Bushing available for $210 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/428772-sa-r32-front-lower-control-arm-bushings-super-pro-kit-120-unused/ and also stock r32 GTS-R 22mm D bushes for the sway bar which I will give away as they are only worth $7

Seems to be improved these days, has anything been changed or am I just using the forums more often?

I don't trust myself to be able to reset it exactly without a timing light, I'm also scared that if it "fixes" the problem I might have just masked another problem. Definitely worth me checking the base timing though. Cheers for all the help guys, appreciate the brain storming!

Just put some new fuel in it and checked the cas, feels nice and tight. Will replace filters and drop exhaust tomorrow

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1428435/revs.xlsx here is a datalog I did, runnign around 35 degrees timing at ~2000 rpm full throttle about to come on boost. at 3-4.5k full boost running about 27 degrees then drops to 19-20 when on full torque. Do these numbers sound abotu right? Full boost isn't until around 4k in 2nd gear. Coolant temp sensor seems right reading about 60 degrees as I only just warmed the car up. My speedo cable is broken so speed was wrong

I would but I don't have a nistune license.

I'll just check ECU talk is reporting the right temperatures in that case, I knew there was an analog sensor just wasn't sure if there was another digital one that the ECU used.

With the temp sender what does it do when at temp, ground the voltage coming to it? Or is it a resistive element giving an analog temperature? What would be the best way to check it? I'll check all of my filters tomorrow and also fill up with a full tank of fuel. edit: I guess the CAS could have just shifted, I'll see if it is tight.

I thought about this but does it ever actually happen in the way I am seeing? I thought if it was an issue it would cause pinging (advanced timing) / loss of power (retarded timing) in the high revs where its effect is worse, not the opposite which I am seeing eg low power down low but up top ok.

Scotty it feels slow even on full boost at 3k so I doubt the wastegate is the issue. Things that I think are next on the list are fuel filter, pressure test intake, drop exhaust. It isn't pinging though so fuel filter/pump I feel are unlikely.

My R32 is down on power over the entire rev range but mainly down low, it feels very doughy and laggy even though it builds boost very quickly, perhaps even quicker than normal like it is running on the cold start map (retarded timing) My car is an r32 skyline with rb25det neo with r33 intake and ancilleries, highflow (gt2871r spec), 740cc injectors, r32 rb20det ECU with nistune, z32 AFM and upgraded fuel pump making 260rwkw, it still feels fast on full boost but not as fast as it should be, down low it feels like an rb20, laggy and gutless. Overall it still runs well, eg idle feels fine and it doesn't miss or run rough, it doesn't have flat spots or feel like I've blown a headgasket or rings, it generally feels like it just has had heaps of timing taken out of it. I first thought it was the knock sensors so I checked ECU talk and it said no error codes, to be 100% I unplugged the knock sensor and it ran much slower again proving it wasn't the knock maps. The next thing I thought was the VCT solenoid was stuck even though I could still hear it clicking in the engine bay, so I unplugged my boost controller (controls the VCT) and it got even slower again ruling this out. One thing I can think of is the fuel pump isn't giving enough fuel (still on stock wiring with 8/14v switchover) however it is still down on power when on full boost which imo makes me think it isn't this and it has been fine for the last 2 years. One other is perhaps the coolant temp sender is shagged, what would this show as in ECU talk, is it the analog temp sender eg I would see 0c from this sensor, or is it a digital on off sender that shows as something else? Finally the only other thing I can think of is there is a boost leak, though my vac looks healthy at idle and there aren't clouds of black smoke behind the car. Other than taking it to my tuner and sticking a probe up its ass to see if it is running excessive rich or down on timing what else could cause these problems? Cheers

The new generation ones, I got the R33 replacements, what ECU are you using? I'm using nistune however Jaustech here in Adelaide are also having the same problems as me on another set of 740cc's running E85.

Speaking of injectors don't buy deatschwerks , they pop and misfire like crazy at low duty cycles, great power with no det, decent economy (14-16L/100km with 260kw) but yeah pop pop pop at idle and cruise.

Anyone else? Every time I go away for a week and load up a thread it asks me to log in again? Annoying as hell!

Confident it is the windscreen moving due to flex in the a pillars now, not really sure how to fix it though

When we pulled the dash it we checked that abs tightened it, cheers though

Rough price? I'm not looking to buy but I am curious how much a car of this calibre is worth, pm me if you would like to keep it private. Thanks

It is creaking along the seal at the bottom of the windscreen, sounds like polystyrene rubbing now that they have changed the seal, I think the A-pillar is flexing causing the seal to scrub making the creak noise. Where should I add spot welds in the A-pillar?

Noise just came back what could it be?? f**k my life

Noise just came back f**k my life, what could it be???

Refitted the windshield and the noise is gone!

Refitted the windshield and the noise is gone!

Interesting, where would you put spot welds? I might take it for a drive tomorrow with no windshield and see if it still creaks as the guy is coming to refit it.

Both were actually making noise but we pulled both out, greased the and now they are quiet. Pretty different noise, cheers though. Window guy is refitting my wind shield tomorrow so wish me luck! Costing 140