Rolls

Yep, basically you need to shift to maximise power under the curve, this usually means shifting above peak power and well above peak torque. Torque can drop off quite massively towards redline yet it is still faster to shift up there. With street gear ratios I'd say shifting on the limiter is going to be the fastest a lot of the time. I think nismoid realises this though, he was just saying you don't need to rev it as much to get the same average power.

Do they make GTX versions of smaller turbos like GT28 etc? We really need to get more comparisons of the borg warner turbos etc to see if there is a better turbo than the GT3071 for ~250kw and amazing response. Does anyone know if there are any other turbos in that sort of power range that offer similar/better performance? 13:1 at redline?? very very lean! I heard they crop it so it doesn't flow as well and causes issues, at least I think it was the AVO, remember some custom housing like that had boost control issues and didn't flow that well.

tune is more important than power level, loads of cars driving around pinging their tits off, especially when people flog it in summer when it has been tuned in winter with no temperature correction set up. quite easily blow it up with only 220kw if the tuner has been quick and nasty

It isn't measuring engine torque that is why, all depends how the dyno is set up

Looking at the flow maps it is very high boost applications where it will excel

Compare the flow maps, they flow more in the higher boost levels mainly, but also tend to be more comparable with a slightly bigger version of the same turbo. Read all of this thread, lots of pretty graphs to look at. What made you think that?

General consensus is the GTX version of all these turbos will be laggier.

Yep sure are, they are 5 stud though, won't fit an R31 (assuming that's what they are for).

that sounds like a top idea, should have tried it.

Why didn't you go a GT3071 then? would have a bit less similar power on 18-20psi but with much much better response

That sounds like a normal GT3076 that kind of power, keen to see the dyno sheet to see how much laggier it is compared to a GT3076

Do you suffer from ADD? you have been told 10-20 times SELL THE 2835s! not one single person EVER has said keep them, every single person has said SELL THEM BUY -5s and build a stroker. Once again not a single person has said go a SINGLE especially not a T04z, EVERYONE said don't use a T04z, get twins that look stock, are your cheapest option, and build a 3L rb30, also your cheapest option if you are building a motor. end of story, stop asking the same questions and READ what has been said MULTIPLE times. If they are laggy on an rb26s they will be even laggier on an sr20,rb20,rb25, they are all smaller capacity, you do realise that capacity is one of the major factors influencing spool on a turbo yes? Sorry I lost my patience, but there is only so much I can read. Please do us all a favour and re read this thread 2 times, every single post, twice, all your questions have been answered.

sour dough bitches

had one that fit the manual bearing, but the big fitting was too big and the small fitting was too small on the auto one, was so easy to use when it fit, 30 seconds and it came out first go.

400s, and they will look and fit much nicer than a big single, I think they will suit your goal better than anything else, also quite well priced.

Gave it 30 minutes of non stop love with a chisel and hammer, finally came out.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/93880-rb26-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page__st__300 check the examples in there for some ideas of what results you will get

They will be very laggy, being as they need a lot of money to get going you would be better off buying a set of working -5s, you will make similar power as you probably won't be able to push the 2835s that hard where as the -5s will come on sooner with less lag. They also won't need new piping etc like going a single will.

This is the bearing I'm talking about, the one in the picture is a manual one which is smaller, the auto one is a lot larger. I'm swapping a neo 25 from an auto car into my manual 32 so need to change the bearing. Got the manual one out fine with a slide hammer, but the slide hammer doesn't fit in the auto one. Tried the dynabolt trick on the auto one but it wasn't really big enough and didn't grip, just ripped lots of grooves in it, tried using a hammer and a chisel to just smash it out, also no luck with that. Is there any special tool or trick people use for removing this? I has me stumped, I'm going to try a bigger dyna bolt from a specialist shop, 16mm is the biggest any of the hardware stores sell.

read the thread lol

why a single? twins are going to look stock and cost less in plumbing

get -5s and build a 3L best option imo

3L would probably be cheaper

a 3L is a much better choice for your power level, sounds good.

go small twins, much better result