Rolls

If you max out a turbo throughout the entire rev range it will always be able to flow more in the midrange (more psi) as more revs = more airflow needed. So really if you want to get the most out of your engine and outright torque won't break it (build motor) then you should always be able to run x% more boost in the midrange than the top end.

Maybe not to redline, but in the midrange it will do 20psi, probably drop to around 15-16 by redline. my highflow is built to similar specs and would peak to around ~19 at 3-4k then slowly drop down to 15 by 7500rpm.

waste of money and it won't even be that good, just get a 4L falcon with a cam, that is the best you are going to do with an NA motor.

Any boost is safe if temperature and detonation is kept under control. Max the turbo out at 18-22 and make sure ignition is safe and AFRs are under control keeping the motor cool and it will last forever.

what does that mean lol

at lower boost around 16-18 with lower power levels around 250ish do you think there would be much difference then?

That was sort of what I was getting at, how much of a difference of peak power do the different heads produce in certain power ranges?

I've had quite a few tuners tell me that there is quite a difference and that it is basically the same as an rb26 head. You sure there isn't some truth in this?

very interested to see the results also how much did you pay for your NEO motor?

Are you sure they are coolant lines then? Because coolant gets above 100c...

the engine

the coolant lines go through the turbo lol, I'm pretty sure they are fine with going near the rear housing.

The camshaft, you will need an entire replacement if you've sheared that off, absolutely no idea how that happens, did the CAS seize?

Depends where the boost gauge is, if its in a vent or down below the dash it is fine, on the dash or a pillar you can't have it though. Turbo timer is illegal because if you have a crash and the car get a fuel leak and it keeps running, sup massive fire. They shouldn't have given you roadworthy with it connected.

do you have any idea how laggy this will be? I doubt it would come on song until 5500rpm or higher

The block is physically quite a bit bigger though isn't it?

Could be a TPS issue making it switch between idle and load maps, almost every ECU on this planet has a seperate idle map

The issue if the same as my car is when you get back on the throttle, as it is so lean it gives a massive backfire even though there is a fuel cut on the over run.

what power are you aiming for?

I bought a 1992 1.3L 5 speed barina lol

LS makes more sense than rb26 as it weighs similar and isn't as long, rb26 is cast iron, long and heavy, would be a downgrade imo

sell it to me

I had this sample problem and couldn't fix it, would backfire badly when coming back onto the throttle and would pop at idle idling around 17:1 then would go back to 12:1 even had pete from nistune look at it and he wasn't sure of the cause

Same cause as always, running extra boost puts ecu into R&R, running richer makes weak spark more obvious. Two problems, ultimately fix both, you have weak spark due to old stuffed coils, wrong plugs, wrong gap (I think it is coils here). The other problem is running massively rich due to stock tune and extra boost, get a nistune or PFC and fix the tune up. You will get better fuel economy, more power and no misfire if you do the above. Usually fixing just one of the above will fix the misfire, but you should fix both. Boost leak will also cause the similar symptoms due to running massively rich (below 10:1), check all silicon joiners etc for boost leak, though majority of the time it is coils as it is happening at peak torque, if it was happening across the board it would be more likely boost leak.

he was replying to my earlier post