Rolls

Get a straw and blow through it until you get 10psi, get a huge 20mm wide straw and blow through it until you get 10psi. Are they both supplying the same amount of air? So checking oil pressure is not a sufficient test to see if the pickup is working as expected, you really need to take the sump off and check, and if you do that you might as well replace it.

If the compression is within 5% per cylinder then don't worry about the actual number (unless its under 100 or something extreme), it is almost certainly fine. Lag could be poor boost control (line leaking), N1 turbos, leak somewhere. Can you get a graph of boost vs rpm? that often shows the issue.

If you do go down the rebuild route make sure you find a highly qualified builder that will do everything themselves. Not someone who will pass it around to 3 or 4 places for each step as then if anything goes wrong (which is does all the time) you won't have any warranty as they will all blame each other. Honestly I think you have less risk buying an unopened second hand motor than rebuilding one, so many horror stories where they go bang for one reason or another, seems like 1/4 seem to go pop from incorrect installation of some part and then everyone blames each other and the owner is out of pocket $10k

cool post bro

Did everyone miss where he said it backfires? Backfire sounds like it is missing, for it to miss it sounds almost certianly like an ignition issue, old shagged coilpacks almost always cause a miss around peak torque (4500-5500rpm). There are loads of threads about this issue, surely this has to be the problem? Check the spark plug gap as well, 0.8 is the largest I would go. Toshi is in Japan, most japs tune the cars very rich around 10:1 from what I've seen, this exaggerates any weak spark problems massively making any misses due to poor spark even worse, you don't have to see cracks/etc for the coils to be stuffed, mine looked perfect and were stuffed, fixing the tune up from 10:1 to 12:1 completely removed the misfire in my situation as well. The only other thing I would bet money on is the intake sucking shut, but I can't see how this would cause a misfire. edit: You say you have an R33 ecu but these cannot be nistuned, the most likely option is an R32 ecu, however these can't control VCT, how is your VCT being controlled? If it isn't switching off at 5000rpm correctly and is keeping the exhaust cam retarded you will see a big dip in power over 5000rpm, make sure the VCT is switching on and off correctly at the right rpm, this could also be your issue, I can't see it would cause any backfires though. edit2: just saw that it wasn't nistuned, ignore my first edit.

How? throttle off, turbo stops boosting, throttle snaps shut, pressure on the intake side of bov > piston side, piston opens. Looks fine to me?

you have to have stock turbo and gate to pass epa lol...

these kando turbos look very nice

what do you think the explanation is lithium?

Pretty sure simon has a neo motor as well, better head, maybe all the dyno's we've seen are r33 spec rb25s?

Long shot but could it be the fact it is a hub dyno instead of a wheel dyno? You would think the correction would take care of this but perhaps it is partially to do with that?

what a/r would the 10cm rear wheel make it?

yeah but if you change the fuel the relative afr is going to be out, it doesn't matter what the number is, it just matters that you realise it has changed and can tune it to suit. most sensors read lambda anyway and convert it

running better doesn't mean safer, want to make sure it isn't running lean or too much ignition. yeah stupidly stiff coilovers suck for traction, prefer softer springs personally

I really wouldn't be driving it anywhere near that hard untuned, it can still ping easily under those load conditions. If its losing traction that easily, you need some better tyres!

Yeah it leaks when off boost allowing air to bypass the turbo, at least that is my understanding.

It will be still quite loud, louder than stock, being as it is shiny you will probably get incorrectly defected for it (it is legal if plumbed back) no matter how much you show them it is in fact plumbed back. It won't be any better than stock for your goals.

oh I thought it was a 2.5L

odd, ask them to clarify before you buy, see if anyone in here chirps up as well, afaik they were all the same, maybe I'm wrong. edit: oh right, 34 one is probably going to be different due to exhaust mounting etc, the actual dump flange is the same though.

dumps are the same according to a tuner I spoke to neo has a different intake manifold, different sensors, ignition etc but exhaust should be identical neo only came in the R34 afaik so 99% sure you have one

hahaha take that rednecks what was the average type of car at the event?

it'll be lag without the characteristic top end that laggy turbos have, it is just a simply mismatched turbo for the engine.

whats the issue, I thought it was mandatory to do a stauncher burnout at hill climbs?

wideband is more useful than ethanol sensor imo, because with wideband you can adjust the tune perfectly to suit, where as with ethanol sensor you are only guessing how much to adjust it by.

It will be noisy and depending on the turbo it can sound really shit or ok, can always block off your current bov so you know what it will sound like. Just make a gasket out of a coke can for now and see.