Rolls

Wasn't laying blame, just saying it didn't inspire confidence seeing all these things with the motor. Perhaps the clearance isn't that bad, but the piston slap is god awful in cold weather, sounds like a big end knock it is that loud, even when warm it rattles like hell.

wow that's an awful lot to burn and you definitely don't normally burn oil?

it will be ok but there are better oils for next time, read the thread for examples.

You'll need the stock intake

good points

go back to stock, even stock has a fair bit of noise with a pod/highflow filter

get a consult cable before you go replacing sensors, it will tell you if they are dead most the time, most tuners should have one and I'm sure they would happily plug it and run a scan in for a small fee if you asked.

Surely it can't be that bad, aren't they required by law to make it at least 98 at all times?

I think 1.06 is too big for a 2.5L

imo the standard knock sensors are more likely to be bogus than proper knock ears, I would certainly get some on there to tell if it is your knock sensors playing up or it is just some mechanical noise. I don't really get this, in a lot of circles everyone shares info and works as a team, (eg forums) I guess when money comes into it it is different though.

What ECU are you doing all this on? There is someone on here doing that that blends their own E42.5

You are right, my bad, it would be the opposite.

Best option is to email nistune themselves, pete (one of the nistune manafactureres) whos email is: [email protected] will be able to recommend the best nistune tuner in your state, he is a very knowledgeable and helpful guy so I'd definitely swing him an email and see what he has to say.

Ask yourself this why do you need an aftermarket fuel regulator? Can your current pump + reg + injectors supply enough fuel? Yes? then why upgrade? (requires retune, shiny and will earn you a defect, harder to tune, often less reliable than stock) No? then why not upgrade injectors? upping the rail reg will ruin your spray pattern making economy worse and you could have just put the money towards injectors Highflow panel filter will be similar if not slightly cheaper than a pod, it is also completely street legal, avoids heat soak and will result in better performance and avoid defects. It will also sound similar (a bit quieter) and flow just as well, but whilst avoiding heat soak issues, win win.

1. As above get a nistune installed, as good as aftermarket, looks stock (chip in your ecu), is cheap and everyone can tune them, find a good tuner, if in VIC I highly recommend STATUS, if in SA I recommend Boostworx 2. Sell the fuel reg as its completely unnecessary, makes tuning difficult and the stock one is ample for 300kw+ 3. Sell the pod and get highflow panel filter as pods suck due to heat soak. 4. Get good tyres, I recommend federal 595evo/rpm for cheap performance 5. Get proper rated springs in your susp for aussie roads, no doubt HKS are 8kg or something stupid, aim for 4-5kg max for aussie roads, Tein super street are much better, or for the legal stock look go bilstein shocks and whiteline springs (will pass defect inspection if legal height) This will be good for ~200kw ish with good streetable handling. Future mods: Get GTR injectors or equiv, Z32 AFM and a highflow turbo for the stock look that makes 250kw and will pass an EPA/defect inspection, if you don't care about getting defected and looking stock look towards a GT3076 turbo and make ~300kw

Assuming E70 is the worst case then tune for E70, that way if you get E90 for example you just run richer than expected and make less power, E70 to E90 shouldn't be a huge change in AFRs, might knock 10kw(??) off your score and use more fuel but it should be acceptable. If you tuned for E85 for example and got E70 then you'd get a lean condition, this is bad. What do people think of this strategy, is the AFR difference from E70 to E90 that dramatic? 98 is regulated and must be at least 98, E85 is not and they state that it is the case as they mix it on the spot in the tanks.

Sounds like it could be fuel pump to me, often they will cut in and out when they are dying hence fuel starvation where you won't stall but you'll get a massive lean condition and it won't rev. It could however be one of many many things, I would recommend taking it to a workshop and letting them sort it, without the proper equipment it could be quite hard to diagnose. If you don't want to though I'd get a consult and check for error codes to rule out sensors, then chuck it on a dyno to see if its leaning out due to a fueling issue.

Can we have a picture of a brandnew SS-1 next to a standard turbo housing? Curious how different it looks and if it would pass the EPA/Defect inspection.

Pulled the head off tonight, all valves are 100% intact and so are all pistons, zero contact made, I am completely f**king stumped. We turned the cam over by hand in the head when it was off and all valves opened/closed and sealed visibly fine. Cylinder 1 was fairly sooty but all other cylinders looked good, all bores look fresh with no marks, however there was MASSIVE play with the pistons, the clearances are so big I can visibly see the piston rings on them all, I'd say there is 20 thou or greater clearance between the cylinder to bores, explains the loud piston slap. Due to the ridiculous piston clearances and the fact I have no idea why it runs on 4 cylinders I am going to get another motor, as with one of the cam bearing caps stuffed I have to get another head, and being as there is a chance something else is wrong I might as well just replace the whole motor. Lots of bolts were finger tight or very loose as well, I am not confident the builder had any idea what they were doing when they put this together (saba**** in vic) Anyone got any ideas? Cam turns over fine, all valves visibly seal, all pistons seem to be fine, but it runs on 4 cylinders and it snapped the cam in 3 places? I don't really care if I solve it as I am just going to replace it anyway, this is as I have zero confidence in the build plus no idea on the issue, but for curiosity sake I'd still like to know what went wrong.

Yep if it can be done inside a stock housing I would consider it as a replacement for my turbo should it ever die being as GCG really turned me off with their customer service.

looks nice! holds power high in the revs as well, very nice.

you should make one that comes on full song at 3k and aims for the 250kw mark with standard covers, I think lots of people would go for this

Pretty sure an open diff will spin opposite ways.

That's the plan next weekend! cheers for the info everyone

So I can use injectors and the rb20/rb25 S1/S2 coilpacks with their existing loom? I imagine the only thing that needs to be the same is the bolt holes for the coilpack mounts. Same with the fuel rail mounts. Same goes for knock sensors, if they plug into the same spot with the same mounts I should be able to use my existing ones. As if I only have to change the cross over pipe, cas plugs and a few other items it would make it worth while going the NEO, but if I have no option but to go NEO ecu and loom it makes it more expensive than I'm prepared to spend. Ultimately if all I need is a new head I might just go down that route anyway.