Rolls

Yeah hence why I doubt I will do it now, if it was as simple as just putting it in and using my existing gear I would do it, but it sounds like a lot of effort (and money) to go neo. Going to take the head off my old motor first, see if its just a new head I need, might be a cheaper solution.

Yeah will soon see once I get the head off, just need to find time to do it!

All that would show is that one is thicker lol ? should put a third tube with water haha I guess it looks fancy and probably helps them sell more oil though heh

Because I just wanted to get your knickers in a knot!

Taking the head off whilst in the car in my r32, what is the easiest approach. Remove turbo and intake then take head off Attempt to remove head with turbo and intake still all attached and then rattle gun everything off when its easy to get to out of the car?

Engine/Car: rb25det/R32 gts-t Type of failure: Exhaust cam snapped into three pieces causing pistons to meet valves, cap no. 1 was scoured but the rest of the cam caps were fine, plenty of oil so absolutely no idea how it snapped into 3 pieces. Factors influencing the failure: Absolutely no idea, most random failure ever! State of tune of the engine: Forged rb25det with pistons, acl bearings, rod bolts etc, highflow turbo, nistune, gtr injectors making about 240kw Suspension and tyres: semi-semi slicks, stiffer springs and shocks, quite soft though, nice for daily driving. Oil used and service interval: Motul 8100 x-cess 5w-40 ~5000kms General comments: If anyone can explain how you can snap a cam into three pieces with no bearing failure and plenty of oil then please let me know!

actually I think it is just the cross over pipe etc that is rb20, if I have to do loom and ecu etc with the neo then it is sounding like it might be a tad too expensive to do, might just pull the head off the motor first see what my options are.

Yeah thinking might pull the head off and see if its just the valves, there's a chance it has put a hole in a piston or worse though, in that case its a bin job.

Yeah if it doesn't bolt up then that is what I will have to do, does anyone know if GTR injectors bolt into the neo rail? I'm not sure if they are side feed or top feed. Any other key differences I will need to make note of? What about the exhaust manifold and dump, are they in the same location? The ignition system as well I can't imagine matters, surely they have the same coil pack mounts that I can just bolt mine into or will that need to change as well? If not do you know if I can still use my rb20 loom to power the ignition system? Just trying to avoid having to rewire my car as I'd like to just put the motor in and use as many of my existing sensors as possible. Sounds like it might be a bit of a pain but all the tuners I've spoken to say there is a reasonable power difference, also the motor will be newer and hopefully more reliable compared to a 33 one if they've had the same treatment. Oh also knock sensors, surely they use the same mounts but could anyone confirm? I can't seem to find any bare motors anyway so I will just get the whole NEO motor so I can use what I can off my old one and swap some of the newer gear in. Anyway cheers Jonno

Woah relax mafia, I'm just asking some friendly questions, no need to be hostile. I realise the intakes are different which is the point of this thread, the question is do they bolt up to the same spots, eg will the R33 intake (and hence R32 as they are the same) bolt up to an R34 NEO motor? If they were the same I wouldn't be asking lol, this thread is my homework! I've done some searching but I still have no answers to these questions. I have GTR injectors and R32 ecu with a nistune, they are fine for my 240kw R33 rb25det and I aim to make similar power on the NEO motor so the question is will the fuel rail bolt up the same or does the NEO intake have a completely different rail mount? My 25det blew up because my cam shaft snapped causing the valves to smash the pistons, had nothing to do with using an rb20 intake on an rb25, they are very similar. I posted this thread because I thought someone might know off the top of their head whether these items bolt up the same, or if they are completely different, if I just think about it I won't gain any knowledge. You are free to ignore my thread if you wish, but I would welcome any constructive help or advice you can give. Also its Saturday night man, relax we are all friends here.

I currently have an R33 Rb25det in my R32 running all the R32 sensors and intake etc. Now it has blown up recently and I figured I might as well replace it with a NEO if I have to swap the motor out, now can I re use my rb20 intake, fuel rail, coilpacks, knock sensors etc all on the neo motor? or are there differences and they wont fit? I realise there are threads on the differences but I thought this was a fairly specific example so was hoping you guys could help me out! Thanks guys

Yeah that test was a load of shit, lots of good comments on the video explaining why.

where are you located?

Finally got around to putting another cam in hope that it hadn't bent valves, only runs on 4 cycls with it in so new motor time now. Figure by the time I take the head off, assuming the valves are only bent and the head isn't f**ked it will still be a $500-800 adventure so might as well just spend $1k on another block. Once I've got the engine out taking the head off will be easy and can see if its repairable or not.

I remember people saying 360mm on my R32, not sure if they are the same though.

in that case it sounds like x-cess is better value if it is as much as $20 cheaper at some places, also has a better cold viscosity, whether this means it has more additives and won't last as long I don't know.

There is an auto place in marion shopping centre here in Adelaide that used to sell it for $59.95, I haven't bought any in about a year but I can find out if it is still that price, cubes was the one who told me about it, he might remember the name.

ah neat, wonder how it compares to the 5w-40 then, similar certs and similar viscosity. $80 makes it dearer than x-cess at $60 though, what else is competitive around the $80 mark?

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm interesting forum here if people want to read more about oils

that one is listed as a 5w30 according to their site http://www.motul.com.my/eng/product_line_up/4stroke/4stroke12.html I am fairly sure I have actually seen the 10w40 oil as well, just not sure what it was called

the 5w-40 is the old one and it is in the opening post as its been available for years, I thought this is what people were talking about the 10w-40 is a group iv/iii mix I think and not a group iv oil like the 5w-40 I believe, is it called turbo light or 7100? or is it another version of xcess as I cant see it listed on their site. i got it wrong in my prior post and mixed them up

My bad, that wasn't my intention.

I said everyone was having a wank over it, not you are a wanker lol, there is a difference

Lol read up man, it was 'the' oil to use until sougi came along, I would say it is now one of the best value ones, it is even in the opening post of this thread! the 5w40 is a blend, the 10w40 is a pure group IV oil. edit: it doesnt look like they make the 10w40 group iv anymore, dang.

Didn't realise it was that cheap, my bad.