Jump to content
SAU Community

Rolls

Members
  • Posts

    5,226
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by Rolls

  1. You can get motul 8100 xcess for $59 at some places which is a fully synthetic grade 4 oil, I've been telling people to use it for years but some how it got lost in this thread and everyone started group wanking over sougi and other oils which tbh I don't think are as good value. Grade 3 fully synthetic oils are light years ahead of what was available when our engines were built and will provide ample protection even in a highly strung engine. Just out of curiosity how are you judging it as 'not quite as good' eg what metrics are you using to compare them?
  2. How would one actually compare them anyway?
  3. The only issue with an oil like this is because of the large range it has a lot of friction modifiers to achieve this, this means that it breaks down faster and doesn't last as long so you need to make sure you change it at the proper intervals.
  4. Sounds like it is just running the standard tune, you get a torque dip around 4-5000 rpm (normally peak torque) due to the tune richening up for safety, pretty normal and if you look at dyno sheets of stock tunes you'll see this common dip in the midrange. Remap should sort you out.
  5. my bad, replace it with whatever the correct colour is
  6. Change the pink sticker to a green sticker, that is all they can check and almost no one knows that is the difference. It's not really because I have never ever heard of a defect station removing your entire intake piping to check the comp wheel size, plus I'm fairly sure nissan don't put the specs in a workshop manual so they would have no reference and hence no reason to fail you.
  7. That is why I don't see the point of a highflow unless it retains stock rear and front covers. if you are going to change one, might as well just get a full garret turbo and hide that as a low mount.
  8. They will pick you up on it with a defect inspection though.
  9. sounds like electrics caused them to jam open, very unlikely for more than 1 injector to fail that way. edit use a multi meter, you'll soon see if one is earthed out
  10. What about it not taking more than 16psi and pinging as if theres too much exhaust heat from backpressure? sounds like something is blocked in the turbo itself.
  11. Swap the turbo yourself, it isn't that hard and you'll save the $500 labour any work shop will charge you, all you need is a new dump gasket as your nuts should still be fine after bugger all use. Once you've done it once it isn't too bad, hardest bit I found was getting the coolant line back in as it doesn't flex and isn't that easy to get to, you should be able to do it in 2 hours max though.
  12. I would organise to swap the turbo then, I don't know of any other manufacturer to offer to send one before getting yours back. The pinging over 16psi due to heat sounds like its related to the issue, maybe something to do with the wastegate, perhaps it isn't sealing properly due to some sort of defect causing the lag and then lack of power due to something restricting it or stopping it working as expect. I would at least drop the dump and confirm the wastegate opens and closes properly and there's no obstruction in there, if not then send it back. Is it possible your manifold is cracked/leaking/not sealing properly? Can't see this causing the pinging/heat issue though.
  13. It looks laggy based on the model turbo and the power it is making, as if the wastegate is leaking, however the fact it pings over 16psi sounds more alarming, mixtures look good but is it possible that overall they are fine and injectors are clogged causing a few to run lean. Surely you should be able to run 18+ psi without pinging if you pull timing and richen it up. I've got the tiniest high flow ever that is making 18psi by 3k ish with no pinging or heat issues what so ever. There is definitely something wrong there but I would be looking else where before the turbo.
  14. Is the panel firmly attached or does it flap around? If its firmly attached you might be ok, just depends on inspector. I had my inner guards hacked to pieces, rear bumper loose (they didn't touch it) and front quarter panel had a crack where it mounts and was cable tied on (also didn't touch it), didn't get picked up however none were obvious or loose panels, yours has a hole so it might get picked on.
  15. dont know why you would ever run anything but 98, no wonder you were having issues
  16. shipping will be a bitch so I'll buy just the exhaust one for $100 if you'll pay shipping to SA?
  17. Need an rb25det exhaust cam non neo version asap. Will pay shipping if interstate. PM here or contact me on <removed> Cheers Roland
  18. That's like getting a blank ruler, randomly drawing a centremeter mark on it then going how accurate is it for setting the base cm mark on other rulers....
  19. If you find one could you post up how much you got it for here, Im curious.
  20. Still looking for a S1/S2 rb25det exhaust cam Let me know on <removed> or Pm here if you can help me out. Thanks
  21. Yeah psi isn't what kills a motor, its torque figures (combustion pressure) and temperature (intake charge temp due to compressor being out of efficiency). Then the usuals like detonation, running lean etc.
  22. If you are going for a defect inspection you don't need them, mine were cut in half and one was missing completely. If you just want them then feel free to ignore this lol
  23. read up 3 posts and you can see my cam in 3 pieces lol
  24. If you can get those results with the standard housings you will have a killer turbo. GCG managed it with a shitty rb20 turbo, less boost (18 tapering to 15) and around ~10kw less. Why is the larger compressor housing needed if its only flowing ~245kw ? The reason I ask is if you are going to change the compressor housing you might as well just get a garrett gt3076, the only reason imo to use a highflow is so it looks stock.
  25. If I cant find one before then I'll take you up on it, cheers.
×
×
  • Create New...