Rolls

bolting a 20 bottom end onto your 25 head, the ultimate upgrade!

personally I like using a hammer

Just don't skimp on getting a pro to look at it, don't want to put it back together and find you missed something.

In that circumstance insulation would affect the temps negatively, as the ambient temp is cooler, in fact most the time it is. I never saw the point in heat shielding anything other than the exhaust.

You want to do bearings as well if you are pulling the pistons out due to detonation damage, no doubt they will be roughed up slightly as well. Also if you can pull the motor out yourself and disassemble it as needed, get someone who knows what they are doing to diagnose the failures/damaged bits then buy the parts yourself and just pay a builder to put it back together you will save a fair bit.

A simple way to tell would be to just an oscilloscope on the CAS signal and see what it looks like at 7000rpm pre and post loom, if its clean on both then the issue must lie with the ECU.

Bad detonation sounds like marbles but by then it is too late, you can still get detonation that you won't hear unless you've got your head in the engine bay. Pre ignition is a different thing that can destroy a piston with just one event. It is where it ignites on the compression stroke, basically trys to compress an explosion. Detonation is where after the spark ignites the fuel the shock wave causes some of the mixture to explode instead of burn, so there are different stages, can have a very small amount of the mixture explode or almost all of it. Pre ignition will destroy any setup, detonation will be better tolerated by forged pistons but as its such a variable thing there is no way to say how long it'll last, avoid it at all costs.

call nissan, they probably know lol

hence me suggesting going to a diff guy, won't be expensive

It is just shims, they can be easily removed or changed. No need to find a whole new diff.

I think because the diameter of the turbo is that size, why they don't smoothly taper out to the bigger size I do not know, perhaps it introduces turbulence which is a good thing for flow?

That is a good point, an incorrectly set up catch can system that pressurises the crank case will cause oil consumption issues.

can do just as good ones with less understeer and discomfort if the preload is just set correctly, drive like a stock LSD and lock up under power every time. just all these stupid wannabe drifters that think the more locked it is the more sick it is

Sounds more like a stupid basically locked 2 way mech lsd, take it to a diff shop and I am sure they can take some preload out of it, most likely in the form of shims. Never under stood the point in getting a 2 way lsd that is so tight it chirps around corners.

just buy them from Nissan, like $6 or something, pretty sure the metal would cost more than that if you made them yourself, plus there's a possibility of stuffing it up.

If you tune rich on WOT eg 11:1 on petrol it doesn't matter anyway as you'd be talking a fairly tiny variance, it is just when on the limit of knock cyl 6 will be the first to go.

Buy pre gapped new plugs at 0.8mm, theres a reasonable chance it will fix it.

Yep you get more resolution as there is only so much memory and processor power in the ECU.

I thought when you said it was all disconnected it wasn't physically inline with the turbo anymore, they should be a fail safe solenoid but if it jammed open then that makes sense.

the motul 8100 range is a great alternative if you dont want to fork out for the expensive oils but still want far above average performance.

actually it was my impression that the rear cylinders got more air due to the way the plenum pressurises so the rear cyl 6 gets more air and hence runs leans all I know is it isn't an 100% equal distribution and can cause issues, I'm fairly sure even the standard 26 intake runs individual cylinder trims to compensate for it.

those quick spool valves seem to have impressive results.

something is definitely broken if it has used 3L most likely rings or something like that was installed incorrectly. other possibility is turbo is chewing all the oil, you'd notice it smoking though.

in how many kms ?

How easy is it to retune for a massive change eg E70 to E90, can you just do a rough across the board adjustment and accept it will be good enough, or does it really need to go on the dyno?