Rolls

Compression/leakdown test.

sell it and get a proper ecu is it currently tuned for that boost? if so what ECU ?

if it isn't tuned for that boost then jesus christ don't boost it! could very easily pop the motor if the tune isn't set up for those load levels. find out asap and get it sorted. also haltechs are crap, get a better ecu.

22psi is about what most people would run on that turbo, I'm assuming the motor is build and tuned for that? what is the issue? You could have a boost line with a leak causing it to go higher than it should though.

actuators aren't that expensive if what they are sending you isn't what you want. Aim for as close to whatever boost you are aiming to run. Don't say get a 10psi actuator then try and run 22psi, you'll run into problems.

how long you reckon the rods will last at 8000rpm? my motor has rod bolts, pistons, new bearings and I'm still scared to rev it that high.

then call whoever you are buying it from

New plugs can help idle if they are pretty stuffed, but cleaning out the AAC is the best thing for a shitty idle.

Mine is a bit sloppy on tolerances and has audible piston slap even when hot but it doesn't use any oil.

Thats better, you'll pass an epa/defect inspection with it set up like that as well. I would have used black hose under the intake piping personally, but its functional at least.

Im betting who ever dodgied up that exhaust didn't cut it properly and also didn't clean it up hence it has bits and pieces sticking out on the inside cause flow obstructions.

Flush the coolant system a few times should fix the overheating. With the AAC take it off and soak it in petrol and then clean it with compressed air, they manage to get an amazing amount of oil and crap gummed up inside them over 20 years.

practice on a dead motherboard/various dead electronics first so you get it right first time.

If you are changing enough stuff to need individual trims and better resolution then go a full aftermarket?

it probably just ran rich from the boost leak but i imagine sucking petrol vapour on the overrun would make some pretty sick flames sounds like a sweet mod to do to a shitbox

It would only suck fuel (more likely fuel vapour) on vac, on boost it would either leak boost into the fuel tank or if its a one way valve do nothing.

It will be better than stock, but it won't be good enough. Save the money on buying it and get a nistune and get that installed and tuned. The different will be quite large, it will also be far easier to tune and you will have a larger base of tuners to choose from. Yeah but the stock ecu doesn't use many correction maps or on the fly tune adjustments so you can get away with piggy backs most of the time, still better to go full aftermarket/nistune though.

Being as a lot of stations mix the E85 themselves and hence has pretty bad variability how do you tune around this, being as alcohol needs to be richer than petrol, do you just purposely dilute some fuel to say E75, tune with that as a buffer and deal with the fact that it is running slightly richer than needed?

I wouldn't know to be honest, I haven't been injector shopping yet. But I do know that there is an appreciable difference between cheap and good ones. Start googling for reviews and tech articles, that is what I would be doing.

never heard of them leaking into the cylinder, I guess its possible though. other thing to check is if you have a rising rate regulator that the lines haven't fallen off, however that would probably make it lean I think, not rich.

an exhaust leak post turbo would just make it noisy, pre turbo would also be noisy but could cause boost to drop, neither would make it run rich or misfire though

its $40 to get it checked out for a single run. edit: missed that it wont boost above 0.5bar, it most certainly is a boost leak causing it to run sub 10:1

unlikely

its not running sub 10:1 rich is it? cause you can get a rich misfire below that.

Yep that's what I said.