Rolls

How is that different to how hes done it, still has the PCV and plumbed into the intake? edit: my bad I thought he had done it like you had, you are right that is the better way to do it. When on boost it sucks the gasses via the catch can, when on vac it sucks straight out the cam covers avoiding oil in the turbo. His is the opposite, when on vac it sucks via the catch can, when on boost it sucks the oil straight out of the cam covers into the turbo.

What happened in this case was less time = more boost but still less power. I was just commenting on a possible reason for the boost increasing with less timing.

get ones with a decent spray pattern as well, don't just look at the cc rating.

Yeah that is what I mean, I don't see any other explanation for the rising boost level at the very top end though.

it shouldnt be blowing clouds of black smoke, if its on the rich end of the scale it will be slightly black, it isn't bad though, means it is more likely to last longer as it keeps the cylinders cooler. the only way to know if its leaning out cyl 6 is to get individual lambda for each cylinder or put a heat gun on each runner and see if one is hotter than the other, the later might not be that reliable though, so really the only way to be safe is to add a slight enrichment to cyl6 and maybe half that to 5.

Boost increased, not power, power dropped as timing went down.

depends if the wastegate is choking or not, if it isn't then it won't push it open and it will just go out the turbine causing a boost increase, can get either happening really.

why would you remove the fmic, it isn't like it has any real downsides, only upsides.

Yeah but then you have to vent it to atmo which is not legal.

Less timing means more energy out the exhaust so you'd expect it to climb, unless the boost controller has multiple rpm points where you can tune the parameters there isn't any easy way around this. Any reason they didn't just richen the mixture up instead?

How bad are they, I've seen a few and figured they can't be any worse than half the other front facing plenum's out there.

Depends on the condition of the motor, you might make 300kw on 18psi for a few years, or it might only last a week, this is with a good tune as well. If your tuner tunes it on the edge (high egts etc, lean) then it could only last a few weeks. Bit of a gamble really, I wouldn't aim for much over 250kw on a stock motor if you want some sort of guarantee and if thats the case a smaller turbo would be better as it'll give you that power but with much much more response.

Turbo is too big for the application, they are good for 350kw and there is no way you want to make that much on a stock motor. Get a gt28/30/highflow something that size and aim for 250kw.

The bov opening on low throttle (the stock ones do) will actually fix mild compressor surge. Running too much retard will cause the turbos too boost much earlier and also cause it.

Be like you hadn't done anything to it, they will load a stock map on for you, if it was the wrong map or untuned there is a high likely hood it wouldn't even idle so you couldn't do much damage.

If you have ever driven an rb25 without it you will know it is definitely worth keeping. Up to 10-15kw in the midrange on low throttle conditions.

What does the set up cost?

How much difference does that Vcam make?

edit: whoops

Ive noticed how big overlap cams bring boost on sooner with turbo cars, this is no doubt due to the extra exhaust energy being delivered to the turbo instead of crank. Could a similar thing be achieved with stock cams, just retard the ignition when coming onto boost, whether or not the extra torque the boost gives cancels out the lack of power from the ignition I can't imagine it'd be any different from just running big cams. You would only need to do it from say 1500-2500 rpm to get it spooling a little earlier. What do people think? I found this out due to a bug with my nistune ecu where occasionally the cold start map would shit itself and put max retard on the timing. Could get 4psi in neutral and it would make the stock turbo surge like crazy at 2000rpm due to it building 10psi with the throttle barely cracked open. Made the car undrivable as it was so doughy but so much boost that it would kick back and forth from no power to loads of power as it came out of the map.

I was going to say that but it just means some other poor sap with end up with it, maybe try and sell it and specifically say you have no idea what it was tuned for, buyer beware then.

like always, black and white, no inbetween

Jam the gate shut and you probably will.

This is true, lack of a hoist and it being my daily car are the main problems.

Some people honestly do get enjoyment out of building it them selves and for them the costly exercise of doing it all from scratch is probably partially worth it. For me though I just get pissed off an angry when stuff doesn't work, working in the engine bay shits me to tears as well, hot, uncomfortable, things break, things are expensive, rather it worked and I never had to touch it.