Rolls

I think using a number is retarded but here is my opinion anyway. Federal 595-RSR semi-semi-slick Traction is amazing, even when cold they are decent but when hot the grip is phenomenal, I was actually scared to push the limit as they raised the bar that much. When about 50% worn (they are now) they become incredibly noisy when cold, take a corner normal speed and a horrid screeching until they get warm, bit of a downside. Wore very very fast, only been 5000kms and they are at 50% already with daily driving and a few hills runs on the weekend, only had them on the front. I got them for $300 delivered for 2x215x45x17 so it was a complete bargain, even for $190 each they would be worth it (normal price). Federa 595-evo Another great tyre that doesn't wear as fast, but not as much grip however they are basically the same cold and hot which is a bonus. Used these on the rear and they hookup 240kw in 1st gear most the time in my r32, spin and chirp a bit and will open up on rough road. Same deal in second, open up occasionally but hold traction pretty damn well.

I thought it was reasonable advice personally. 18s ARE better than 19s lol, like you said, cheaper rubber, lighter and almost always better performance.

You would have at most 180-190kw with stock turbo on 11psi, someone is pulling your leg. If you want more power then do the usual things, computer, injectors and then get the appropriate turbo for your power levels, highflow will bolt on and make a reliable 250kw fairly easily. If you want above that then you are going to need to get more serious.

it will be a few thousand dollars as you will need to get a full spectrum emissions test and pay a tuner to tune it to pass the specs, it will probably also have to be detuned power wise, brake test, lane change test etc. it gets expensive very fast. there is a thread somewhere with a list of engineers in SA.

sure but at what point does it become unacceptable for tuning?

If you are running low boost wouldn't you want the most restrictive hot side on it? As if you only run 10psi you want to get it spooled as fast as possible and 10psi isn't going to choke even the smallest gt35 hotside? and surge isn't going to be an issue as we are only running low boost (I think).

Just draw on the mating surface with a black texture and go to work on them, they will be 'matched' however you could still completely stuff it up. You want the flow to be maximised and there are various things you need to take into account, I would speak to someone who does it and see what they say first.

Completely true but higher boost generally results in higher intake temps which is what the issue here is, high intake temps with stock pistons and high comp = detonation which I imagine is the problem. Personally I think you are simply asking too much, there isn't any easy way to do it that wont result in either lag, or unacceptable intake temps. What is the main reason you are not keen to open the motor up? Cost?

The factory ecu doesn't really learn much, it has a knock map and a normal map, all you really reset is the ecu flags which if accurate will be restored on reset anyway. So no it doesn't reset anything more than it currently does.

Here is a 1UZ making 300kw at 9300rpm. Should be able to get pretty close to that with the right cams and intake, I mean you have an extra half a litre of capacity as well.

Gt3076 is amazingly responsive on an rb30, peak power is down low and you barely have to rev it. If you aren't aiming for massive power and it is a street car it is what I would do.

Nah it is completely different, it changes the complete exhaust cam profile over at high revs, eg it is inactive below 4500 rpm and activates from there to redline, where as the VCT just advances the intake cam.

Yeah but most people don't know what they are talking about, misfires, poor idle they are all used to. If it makes power then it must work!! Doesn't mean it works well or that it is better than stock!

Just shifts the cam profile at 4500rpm I think, so it wouldn't really help until you were already on boost. Maybe if you jammed it on all the time it would help, off boost would be worse but the extra overlap would help it spool faster.

Just remember people that stock injectors are very old, new ones use new tech and can have much better spray and atomomisation, so not only do you risk making and old design worse, you are missing out on new tech. You don't even save that much money.

It can if they stuff it up, it is a human doing the process so errors can occur, you don't get the guarantees like you do with factory made ones.

you are increasing the flow rate, hence the spray pattern will be affected. Might not be negatively but you don't know.

Pretty sure it only counts if you default or fail to pay it off, it will affect you negatively then. If you pay it off on time it won't do shit as far as I know, especially as it is such a tiny amount. I know this isn't how it works but personally if I saw that someone needed a loan for a laptop and wanted to buy a house it would tell me they suck at saving and hence might also suck at paying off a house. Just buy a dell off their website, they are so god damn cheap these days, ~$600 for the basic ones which are more than enough power for office work.

My centre air con vent in my R32 gtst is busted and I need a replacement. Anyone got an interior they are wrecking at all?

ok not identical, but not hugely different, the results from that subaru thread show a similar thing. Most the gains are to be had at high boost levels.

Only at high boost/high revs, lower parts of the map look identical.

no doubt that they work, just the doubts are with idle stability and fuel economy.

the same way any other chip is done, find someone with a chip eraser etc, its crap though takes ages to get any real changes, just fork out for a nistune, about $300 installed usually and maybe 2-800 for a tune depending how many mods, if its basically stock they prob have a good base map and only need 30mins touching it up.

Yeah good point, didn't think of the ignition. Proper protection features will always be better option.

Interesting, I know if I was designing it I wouldn't do it like though, oh well. Is that fairly standard between ecus?