Rolls

why would you convert to an rb20 turbo?

gt30 or gt28 style turbo is what you want, or if you are a cheap skate get one of the bigger highflow turbos second hand. Should all see in the 250-300kw range with fantastic response, should be making solid power by 3.5-4k

lol that would be so hilarious to actually see.

pull apart a microwave lol, those ones are ridiculous, might need to cut it up though. seriously though you should be able to buy a rare earth magnet that is small enough.

if you have to adjust the cam timing that much doesn't that defeat the purpose of having those cams in the first place? eg advancing the intake cam decreases the overlap which is exactly what getting the bigger cam did in the first place? Or am I wrong. never understood the point in buying cams then adjusting them with cam gears, why not just get a suitable cam in the first place.

Yeah this, I got a 342 in my rb20det hr31 and any less than 1/4 a tank if you booted it around a corner it would fuel starve, not an issue with a stock pump or other pumps, you can probably modify the sock but it was a massive pain in the ass for me.

it is still financially a much worse decision than selling it and getting a better car (GTR) for less money.

yeah I was talking generally, but even 264s will decrease the dynamic compression slightly.

where do you draw the line at being 'efficient'? I would say running 20psi on a highflow is past its efficiency but they make for an awesome combination on a street car!

they have never worked for me, I got a total of 1 notification.

Lol rb20s are crap down low with the stock turbo, one making 240kw will be absolutely gutless below 3.5k, I wouldn't be surprised if 1.5L non vtec civics and barinas are faster off the line due to the conservative cams and variable valve timing they have. You NEED to rev it to go anywhere, I'm talking 4.5k for daily driving otherwise why the hell did you buy it? should have just bought a commodore if you want to drive around at 3k lol. The fuel economy should be fine revving it out with daily driving, my 240kw rb25 gets a beating everyday and it manages 14.5L/100km with stop start peak hour driving so I really can't see how you could be worse than that, you would be lucky to get it below 12L/100km anyway. So drive it like a skyline or sell it, I don't understand why anyone would buy a skyline and drive it under 3k everyday, it is a puny little 2L six, that is equivalent of a 1.3L 4 cylinder if you take 2 cylinders off it lol, TINY engine with cams and a turbo that suit high revs.

it'll have nothing down low and the top end will be completely killed by the turbo, so you lose out in both ends, a stock motor will drive better. sorry to say but it is a bad combination.

Who cares about the number, it doesn't mean much at all, it is all about how well the tune is done, chasing figures is for boy racers. People who actually care about their car and motor will happily take less peak power if it means their car is tuned correctly. Absolutely not! On a dyno they have knock ears and AFR guages, they can tell if your motor is pinging, even if the mail order tune is perfect (it wont be) they can't tell if you have a failing fuel pump causing it to ping its tits off and explode! Nothing beats a dyno tune ever, even if they don't do anything the confidence knowing your car is not pinging and the AFR is safe is worth it. It is a dyno tune or nothing imo, you should be putting it on one with knock ears and an afr guage no matter what you do, preventative care is the best way to make sure your motor lasts.

running big cams means you can get away with higher static comp ratios as the dynamic compression ratio decreases as well, keep this in mind.

Just sell it and buy a GTR you will save so much money, it will be road legal and it will be a better car. Uh you do know you can get GTRs for under $15k these days? there is no way doing this horrible job will be cheaper, not to mention it wont be road legal!

It might show it on the dyno but there is absolutely no way it is actually losing 400hp, do you have any idea how much heat that would create? it would be enough heat to literally melt the gears if that was the case. I think a large amount of it is how inertial dynos calculate their figures and they don't actually 'lose' the majority power that we see on a dyno, they just read less due to the way it is being measured, there are losses due to the extra weight being spun up, but they are not completely lost this way.

lol stage 1 and stage 2 ahahahaha

megasquirt is a owner made ecu for tinkering around and just having a mess around, great if you want to add loads of custom features yourself or are making an old carby car ecu but if you are not doing it yourself all you are doing is making it impossible for the tuner for no gain, generally they aren't a very good ECU and I would say its a large downgrade over a nistune. Nistune is what I'd recommend for a near stock car, cheap, looks standard, no new wiring, simple to tune and large amount of tuners available.

Yeah more worried about the breather/filler pipe on the trans and diff, are they bunged up or are they open? Just removed the entire interior bar one bolt holding the carpet in and it started pissing down again, luckily there is only a single loom of 24 wires (I think) that was wet, shouldn't have to replace anything else. still f**king gay though, what retarded council routes a river under a carpark. Also amazing timing I just sold my spare car LAST NIGHT, f**k I wish he didn't turn up.

A creek runs under our carpark at work and with the massive downpour this afternoon it burst a huge 3m hole in the ground and flooded the carpark and surrounding offices and buildings, lots and lots of damage done, few cars were completely ruined and no longer start, the sports stadium was filled completely with water. We are on a bloody hill as well, I couldn't even understand how the water managed to pool there, there was just so much that it couldn't drain down the side streets fast enough. Anyway my car was under about 40cm of water, seals in the doors stopped it coming in but it must have leaked through a few holes in the floor. Exhaust (big 3" one) was completely filled as well. Muffler no longer does any muffling as the water must have collapsed the baffles or something but it isn't too bad, sounds nicer imo just loud (its a skyline), I jacked it up on a slope and got most of it out then just drove it for an hour to boil the rest out, no more steam but the muffler is still loud, is it likely its never going to quiten down again? Also with the floors when I got in everything was dry but over the hour the water soaked through the carpets, peeled them back and they are pretty much soaked through, left some towels on the floor to soak as much up as possible but I think it will be a carpet out job. Its going to be raining for ages to come so I probably wont be able to get them out until the weekend, what should I do? buy some anti mould powder and leave the carpets to dry in the sun for a few days? Or is it guaranteed to smell no matter what I do? Also is the council liable for this as it was entirely due to the creek bursting through and not just bad rains, every building in the carpark had their lower floors flooded and quite a few cars were badly damaged. I don't mind pulling it all out and cleaning it up, but I cbf buying new carpets and a muffler if I have to. http://www.adelaiden...67109078?page=3 some pictures of some unlucky people. Also oil contamination, I am going to do the engine oil this weekend, but what are the chances that the gearbox and engine oil have water in them now? don't want to flog out my motor driving it the next few days until I get the chance to fix it.

Got a set of rims for sale, they are pretty standard 17x8 and 17x9 black 5 spoke rims, no gutter rash and in good condition. They need new tyres as the sidewall on the front right has a gash in it but holds air fine and the rear ones are fairly bald. They will drive you to the tyre shop but they certainly are not legal. Here are some pictures. Not sure of the offset but they sit perfectly on an r32 gtst, sit about half a cm in the guards so they are legal and fill out the guards well, no scrubbing or anything like that. Can possible organise cheap 2nd hand tyres if needed. Can send interstate but will probably cost a bit. Asking $700 ono Can call on <removed> or PM on here. (I think PM is broken atm)

Got a set of rims for sale, they are pretty standard 17x8 and 17x9 black 5 spoke rims, no gutter rash and in good condition. They need new tyres as the sidewall on the front right has a gash in it but holds air fine and the rear ones are fairly bald. They will drive you to the tyre shop but they certainly are not legal. Here are some pictures. Not sure of the offset but they sit perfectly on an r32 gtst, sit about half a cm in the guards so they are legal and fill out the guards well, no scrubbing or anything like that. Can possible organise cheap 2nd hand tyres if needed. Can send interstate but will probably cost a bit. Asking $700 ono Can call on 0423 277 771 or PM on here. (I think PM is broken atm)

stock coilpacks always shit them selves, replace them either way

if its your intake wheel you might get bits of nylon and compressor housing being ingested, can't be good for the motor.

metal gaskets are not reusable, probably what is leaking.