Rolls

After a cheap rb20 or rb25 box, noisy input shaft is acceptable as I can get it rebuilt easily. Anyone have or know of anything available? number is <removed> or PM on here if you do! Cheers

Not at $1500 I can keep putting $200 noisy rb20 boxes and freshen up the bearings every 3 years for a long time! If you know of a 25 box in Adelaide that is less than $800 I would consider it though (never seems to happen) plus all the second hand 25 boxes my mates have put in have the same noisy input shaft anyway. Risking I will be removing the box on wed and investigating what has broken, hopefully it is the input shaft as I have heard other people say theirs failed and starting knocking instead of whirring. I'm guessing if it is the lay shaft gear and metal has gone through everything it is a scrap job? Will see if I can find anything second hand now in that case.

Interesting, common to break one with extra torque? Rb20 box behind 3 years of 260rwkw

It knocks identically in all gears and neutral with the clutch out, driving in all the gears also makes the same noise. clutch in and it is gone, it increases in revs with engine revs, imo it can't be anything BUT the input shaft bearing

So my input shaft bearing started knocking badly last night, I am planning on rebuilding the box with the help of a mate (has done them before) replacing it and the other 3 main bearings as the box whines a bit. If the race has completely shit itself will it have sent metal through the whole box meaning it is only good as scrap metal? Or does it usually contain the failure and make repair possibly? I am going to dump the oil tomorrow and see if theres any chunks coming out, if not though I guess I won't know the extent of the failure until I pull it apart. How many guys here have replaced a failed input shaft bearing and found no further damage? The knock is reasonably bad and went from being ever so slightly noisy to being f**ked within about 2 seconds.

Captain thread isn't answering his mobile and I have another sparkplug that won't go in as the thread is all gummed up with shit, cleaned it out with lube etc but new plug binds up after about 2 turns. Anyone else who does callout service for helicoils etc?

Also interested in progress.

If you don't track/drift 90% of the time imo having it is better, nice turning circle and means you can smash roundabouts at 60, providing of course your bushes aren't screwed, then it can feel a bit sloppy.

Could smash more boost in the midrange, set up the boost controller so that it peaks 4-5psi higher in the midrange and then tapers down to whatever boost you are currently running at redline. The airflow required at redline at say 15psi would be similar to the airflow required at ~20psi at 4000rpm. If you look at the compressor map and run along the edge of the flow line you can often find on these smaller turbos you can run a lot more boost in the midrange than redline getting the absolute most out of the turbo across the board, would make for massive midrange punch but similar top end power like has been stated. Something to remember is 18psi doesn't always = 18psi etc, at lower rpm 18psi is flowing far less air than 18psi at high rpm.

Sell the car. Buy a car with a proper motor in it, why the hell would you waste money doing a conversion at $5k + to convert? You can BUY an entire 4WD for $5k!!!!!!!

That is also what I read, no one would claim it would auto tune to any fuel in the tank.... He definitely means HE will tune it to whatever is in the tank, not the ECU will auto tune to whatever is in the tank. Regardless it sounds like he is doing epprom tuning, not a nistune, and that will result in a possibly safe but extremely average tune. The only option here is nistune, if he isn't installing a nistune board find a real tuner to do the tune, end of story. NISTUNE or you find a new tuner, understood?

Sounds like battery, low battery means low volts to pump = lean doesn't it?

So the PCV is removed and you have a line going to a venting catch can acting as an air leak? Or you have the PCV with a line going to the catch can?

If it isn't the cat (most likely answer) having heavily retarded timing does the same thing, louder exhaust, low power, boost comes on way earlier etc.

I suggest getting rid of the turbo and getting one suited for the 2L motor, then get a nistune or an aftermarket ECU as the mine ECU won't be tunable and will probably ping/do all sorts of weird shit as soon as you start putting any decent boost into it, could even pop the motor if it is highly advanced. I had a mines ECU in a car I bought about 5 years back, the previous owner had retarded the base timing back as far as it went just to stop it pinging, it also ran so rich that it went off the AFR scale when on full load, below 9:1, basically they are just crap and not suited in anyway for what you have.

Why did you get rid of the PCV? How is your catch can plumbed up? Sounds like there is your issue right there, probably pressurising the crank case, will f**k your rings eventually if you don't fix that.

rb30et would be a pretty simple swap, or rb25det following that. Are there any good forums for patrols? there are probably a shitload of better diesel options you could put in there that may/may not be less work.

What maf are you running? sounds like you've changed a lot of things, have you hooked up the FPR to a vac signal correctly, is the fuel pump working? do you have correct fuel pressure? Have you done an intake smoke pressure test to check for leaks? On vac this will make the car run lean, will go rich when on boost. If you are getting misfires the lambda reading won't be accurate so you need to fix these before you can rely on it, when you hit the limiter on full load I've seen the afr go lean but it was blowing black smoke. edit: if it is missing the idle vac will be crap, you won't get full vacuum as half the cylinders aren't firing so you won't be getting as much air drawn in, hence less vac, this is a symptom of missing, not a cause, though if you have an air leak it could be a cause. Don't get it tuned until they fix these issues, tuning around issues like this is just a bandaid and not fixing them, it won't make the power it should either if there are leaks etc as well.

Where did he say 20 psi? I can't seem to find him saying any pressure at all.

If you keep them small then its believable that it might increase response, when you see people with these massive tubular designs designed for peak power though you will often loose response.

Thanks for the explanation jiffo, makes sense now.

Do you have a dyno comparison showing the increased spoolup/response? You will get better power due to less restriction, eg at 14psi it is probably flowing close to what it did at 18psi. I would be sceptical of it making the 18psi earlier with the aftermarket gate + manifold earlier than the stock one, you can't compare 14psi and 18psi as "full boost" at the same time as its a different pressure!

Oh fair call, I mixed you and the OP up. Tbh external gate and bigger manifold would probably decrease the response of the turbo, but it will flow better and make more power.

I can try that, is the fuel evaporating a bad thing?

When I turn my car off in 37c+ weather the fuel pump makes this weird as hell vibrating whine, totally different noise to when it is priming or running though. I've even got a mate to be sitting with a multi meter ready and the pump is getting 0v but it still makes this weird as hell whining/buzzing/ringing noise for maybe 15 seconds after the car is switched off. Only happens if the car has been sitting in the sun and I've been driving around town getting everything stinking bloody hot, could it be fuel boiling or something odd? Anyone experienced things like this before? The pump was replaced before I got the car but I believe it is a nismo drop in for an R32, it is however still using the stock wiring loom and getting ~11v. Ideas?