Rolls

At what levels are you actually getting real pre ignition and not just noise?

Why does the IACV only go to the first cylinder? How the hell will it idle smoothly like that?

It is refreshing to read posts like this were people actually understand the relationship between power and torque and know what they are talking about. So many people seem to think torque and power are different unrelated things, where you can have the same power but massively varying levels of torque, as mentioned this is a load of crap, if you have x power at y rpm, you will always have z torque. That quote about torque winning races is a load of shit, if you make 900000nM of torque at 2rpm and it drops off to 100nm by a very low redline (lets say 2000rpm) you will still only make something like 50kw at the wheels and you wont win the race, if you make only 100nM of torque but you can rev the engine to 18,000rpm you will make something like 500hp and will clearly win the race. Power wins every single time, torque only wins if you make it at high rpm. This is wrong, if you made the same maximum torque 1500rpm earlier you would make LESS power and be SLOWER, more torque = more power, same torque at higher rpm = more power. You want to make as much torque as possible, and hold it for as long as possible, but being as torque is so obviously confusing for everyone it is far simpler to just say make the most power possible and for the largest spread of rpm as possible. Torque can be completely disregarded from the conversation as all it does is serve to confuse people, power is all you need to know. Because people are stupid and torque isn't the be all and end all, F1 cars have even less torque and are even faster.

yes less timing means less force on the piston as the mixture has expanded further and has less time to act on the piston, less force means less torque rotating it towards the wall and hence less noise. my car is a first hand example of this, with standard timing the noise is very loud when stone cold, but with the timing almost cut in half the noise completely disappears, when warm it doesn't make any difference as it doesn't slap.

how did it all go in the end ?

Piston slap can still happen, it is nothing bad just a bit of noise, means if you ever get it rebuilt you might need an ever so slight overbore but it is not really an issue, if it isn't piston slap then I have no idea what else it could be, reducing the timing will always reduce piston slap, and I cant think of a single other thing that it would reduce. Piston slap isn't caused by thrashing a motor, some pistons just have more of a tendency to do it due to thermal expansion.

Reducing timing massively reduces piston slap when cold, I have forged pistons that make a hell of a racket on a stone cold morning, but if it kicks into the cold start/low octane map (it does most the time when really cold) it pulls loads of timing and the rattle goes away instantly. I'm fairly confident that is what your issue was then, piston slap.

Agreed sounds like piston slap to me, but if its gone then it must have been the bearings, not to mention I've never heard piston slap from stock pistons.

Find the ADRs regarding spoilers including all measurements, make the effort to draw up the dimensions of your wing and show how it fits the ADRs (providing it does), if you can do this and go down the cop shop I can guarantee you they will remove it for the basic inspection fee which I think is around $20. Pain in the ass but that is the best way you will get heard without going to regency, then with your evidence that the issuing officer was wrong file a complaint. Thing is you need this evidence or its going to be very hard to argue your case, with a bit of digging around you should be able to find the relevant ADRs though. Regarding whether it is regency or not it is meant to be a major defect or suspicion of one, but its not a hard rule, they can put regency down for bald tyres or an oil leak if they want.

even 215 decent tyres stretched like hell would grip better than 265 nankangs, they are about as good as bob jane all rounders.

with 240 I can in first gear with only a slight amount of squirming, 595 evos not even semi slicks.

lol 550hp and nankangs, that must be hilarious attempting to drive it on full throttle.

Losing his job could be worth hundreds of thousands over the years, not worth it, pay some junkie $50 to almost kill them, they have nothing to lose lol.

Richer AFRs will drop the combustion temps though which is a good thing.

My mate had 8 blocked injectors on his VH41 after having it sit around for 8 months, it is entirely possible. Ignitor is what powers the sparkplugs, are all 6 sparking?

Sounds like typical heat soak to me.

Surely your work has insurance? Go hassle the boss. edit: f**k yeah!

How are you getting 14psi without a boost controller, cause if that is just off the spring (odd) a controller wont let you drop it .

did you check the original earth wire as well? as that could be the issue, but if all the above are working then maybe you have an igniter fault, perhaps if the ECU detects the igniter is not functioning it kills the injection as well? The other possibility is the injector is clogged/jammed and the ECU detect excessive current draw and kills the driver to protect it, try manually powering the injector and see if you can hear it click on and off.

You will need standard rims, no tint, need to get the headlights aligned and make sure they are ADR approved, check all bushes, wheel bearings and boots as these will all cause you to fail and almost certainly are stuffed unless you have replaced them recently. Battery in the boot will need to be in a proper vented box as well Degreasing everything and going in with a good attitude will help you more than you think as well.

i meant full comp insurance is a scam

Insurance is such a scam, it is only worth it if you do like 10k+ of damage or own a $30k car

what do you mean you ran earth through the injector wires?

of a turbo mounted 20m away from the runners and intake, it just sounds like massive lag and horrible pedal response.

Ceramic, is that like a brass button?