Rolls

One or two injectors flowing more than the rest could do this. Only way to tell is to flow test them or to put individual O2 sensors in the runners which I really doubt anyone would do.

Can you have the air bags removed? Not optimal but is could be a solution if the modifications mean you can't re register the vehicle.

could you use an intake temp sensor and trim the ignition based on that?

I think even though more people might notice the 20 it will suck to drive with any decent amount of power due to the lag. I'd definitely go the 25 but being as you have ruled it because it isn't different enough (personally I think this is retarded, there is a reason everyone uses it, it works great and is cheap) so if the 25 didn't exist I would go the 26. Personally I think rb20s sound MUCH better than rb25s or 26s, much tougher note and less raspy.

A microleb is a downgrade from the stock ECU, personally I'd sell it. They don't have closed loop O2 feedback so you are going to get rubbish economy unless someone spends hours and hours on the lower load cells when tuning it.

I'm assuming these have a ball bearing core?

Yep you only have to fix the things found on the first inspection. Unless the you are a dick to the officers or there are obvious unroadworthy modifications they won't fail you second time round providing everything has been fixed.

Call the regency hotline and they will tell you exactly what you need. Probably worth taking it past a compliancing shop as well to make sure everything has been ticked off. You will need brakes off of an R33 to pass, boost solenoid isn't needed as the R32 didn't come with one, exhaust etc is fine as long as it passes an idle emissions test (which it probably wont with a highflow cat, put a stock one on for the test). All emissions gear, carbon canister etc has to be hooked up as well. Re cutting the front bar, depends which parts you cut and how bad/obvious it is.

I had the monday off work and hence my calendar didn't remind me so I completely forgot, called the guy back a few times but haven't managed to get through. The distributor gave me some more numbers to call though so when I get some more time I'll be going with them, might give them a buzz now actually. Will definitely report back once it is done though. Personally I think the fact it is more flammable is a complete non issue, you have plastic fuel lines in your engine bay, if things are getting hot enough to melt a compressor and make it leak then you have bigger issues at hand, that and it is such a small quantity, it would most likely make a nasty pop and damage some lines if you managed to release it all at once, mix it in the right ratio with air and then ignite it. It would be far more likely to leak out very slowly over time. So even if it was pure propane gas I wouldn't be too worried. I mean people run their cars on LPG without any serious issues so I don't see how this deserves more attention than normal gas systems do.

My mate did a 3 day workshop at motec and one of the head engineers told him they recently dropped almost $1mil purely on software development so you know you are getting the best with motec, I really doubt any of the other products would come close to this sort of funding.

Driving it at all is stupid if you've changed the turbo and more than doubled the airflow. Don't get it on boost at all.

So you've upgraded the turbo from the rb20 one to a 25 and with a tune you have gone from 155 to 170kw? Sounds bang on to me, what is the issue? Power is around the norm, most people with rb25dets don't even make 200kw on that boost, you've got half a litre extra and you expect to make the same? If the timing was off by one tooth you'd be making 120kw and it would run like crap, I really don't think there is any issue here you are just expecting more than is the norm. What does your tuner mean it is knock limited, as in it is getting high knock readings? if that is the case then you have an issue somewhere else, was he having fueling issues? What kind of afrs are you running? High egts can cause it as well, is it possible your cat shit itself? Drop the exhaust and see what power is like.

i lold

Yep too many variables in that for it to be considered as even slightly meaningful. They should have done 5 dynos back to back for each oil to account for any spread, they should have waited for each car to cool down AND they should have used a control car with no oil changes. I bet there was less than 2kw difference between them all and a dyno is not accurate enough to measure a difference like that.

Go to the cop shop anyway, I've heard of examples of it being cleared before if it is a minor defect. I believe Mitch on here did that and they cleared it for him.

Tuned on a dyno or was it an existing tune?

Nope the cat helps burn the excess fuel, hence the RATIO of fuel to air changes, the amount of physical air however does not increase.

Unless oil is literally pissing out I don't see why it would cause an issue.

$100-150 depending on the complexity is fairly usual, the 150 mark often includes basic backup of my docs etc, if they have restore cds and don't want anything else done $50 is often the norm. I used to do these sort of jobs on the side and I would charge $150, that also included the call out fee to diagnose in the first place.

$800 installed and tuned on a dyno is reasonable, I've seen it cheaper but that is probably a generic price to cover their bases if the user has a lot of mods. Definitely go the nistune, it will handle all the mods you mentioned with ease.

if tuned properly the difference at idle will be nothing.

Even 10psi let alone over is enough to make the ECU throw a tantrum, I got splitfires, gapped plugs down to 0.6mm and it still misfired due to dropping to 9:1 afr. Unless you have a bad vac leak (which I doubt because it wouldnt idle properly) I think getting it on a dyno with someone who can do a cheap remap is your best solution. Trust me though, a tune is the best upgrade you can possibly do, it will be like a brand new car to drive when you get it back, the difference from a RR spluttering factory tune due to more boost to a tidied up remap is like night and day.

If you are going to the trouble of running E42 why didnt you just use pure E85? You still need to go to a random servo each time so I don't really see the advantage, unless you were running out of injector. edit: just watched the vid, are you running a locker? Cause it seems to understeer bad then power oversteer.

looks like an external oil pump of some kind, not sure why it would be used though edit: Yep it is http://moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=14444

Yeah I've changed my tune after a bit of reading, by the time you buy the wideband support, knock sensor support blah blah it certainly is going to be prohibitive to buy. I think the Vipec would be better bet even if it isn't as easy to tune, but I guess that comes down to the tuner anyway.