Rolls

A Motec has far superior tuning software, Ive used a few and nothing even comes close. If he does sell the motec will he get many extra features that will be used? If not I would stick with the motec purely due to how much easier they are to tune.

I realise the vipec is a great ECU but the motec is still better if he already owns it then I am confused why spending more to get less is being considered?

Tough, wonder if you can fit them on anything without tubbing it.

how lean does the O2 feedback tune it anyway?

I'm considering buying the gear myself as the consistency I seem to get is a bit average, so many average tunes and most people don't know how to check it so not many people on here realise either, that or I need to find a tuner where they offer for me to sit around and watch everything they do. Personally seeing those AFRs on that dyno sheet and it being a final tune I would take it elsewhere, if it looks like that on WOT I'd hate to imagine what the timing and afrs look like on half load and cruise. Might cost you $500 but if you can find someone that will take the time and do the entire map properly it is worth it, only trouble is finding someone who will put this sort of effort in. A lot of the big tuners will for their big hp and important customers cars, but will rush some of the cheaper jobs so the consistency isn't there.

Personally I would stick with the smaller rear as sure it won't flow as much but you'll get much better response which unless it is a track/race car is what you want. Should be a very nice setup.

You already have the motec and it is $500 for the extras but a Vipec is worse and costs $2500? Why on earth would you pay more for less? Am I missing something here? A Motec is 1000x better and easier to tune properly than any other ECU on the market, and if it is going to cost less for the extras then I don't see why you would downgrade to something else. Personally if you already have made the outlay and paid for installation and tuning I would not change. If you were considering both from scratch then I would cost up both options and consider the Vipec. How many of the extra features would you need? Do you really need launch control etc?

Peak power sounds right but if the economy is that bad it is possible it is a sloppy tune hence the lack of response, feeling down in average power. Could take it back or take it elsewhere, bit of a gamble really as we have no idea who the tuners are.

LOL my bad, I'm surprised you don't end up with kerosene in your tank half the time!

lol you do realise that they get randomly audited for things like that.

Lol rbs already have sequential injection, it is just after about 3500rpm that they switch into batch injection, or at least the CA and SR motors do, I'm fairly sure the RBs are the same due to the fact that the time delay between being sequential and batch is so small at high rpm and WOT it makes basically zero difference. A good comparison is a wolf 3D ecu which does batch mode the entire time resulting in unstable idle and poor fuel economy.

There is a reason everyone does it the same way, including 99% of ALL car manufacturers. That reason is because it is the cheapest, gives the best emissions, the best performance, the best drivability and is the simplest. Being different for the sake of it is retarded, being different because you can do it better or have a smarter solution on the other hand... that is true engineering.

not overseas it won't, nor will it if it comes out of storage in 3 years time, if they are clever enough to knock off half a workshop and not get caught, they have probably thought of these thigns.

my opinion was if you go new rod bolts and pistons you can rev it more due to the rod bolts being the weakest link (im not 100% this is just what I read), then you get the advantage of being able to resist more heat and detonation before destroying your ring lands etc from the piston melting, I think the rod bolts and pistons are much more of a weak point than the rods, that was my interpretation anyway, I might be completely wrong. So you can safely go to higher power levels with these, just not as high as with rods as well, the fact that rods aren't exactly that expensive compared to a rebuild and pistons etc I don't really know why you wouldn't though.

identical internals...

Yeah I keep hearing about it in threads but sounds like it never got built?

exactly it is a dodgy ass way and Im surprised it runs at all. converting to a carb is a retarded backwards idea, surely all the money for custom intake manifold, carb, tuning the carb etc could buy you a $300 nistune module and go towards a $3-400 tune which is all you'd need for a simple NA cam. I think people should just wait the year or two and get an rb25det, better power, better powerband, better economy, sounds better wins in every single possible way. I get that you are trying to give advice mad max but it isn't good advice financially or engine wise, it is a bunch of backwards hacks that aren't legal (try passing emissions with a carb and a massive cam lol), better off advising to just save your cash for when they got off their Ps and get a turbo. I bet that carb + cam solution uses 25L+ / 100km

I always wonder how people manage this, searching for threads and leave it open by accident?

The tip has nothing to do with the drone, it is due to the muffler size construction and number used, if you have a 3.5 system with a single straight through muffler im not surprised it drones, your best bet is to get another inline oval 3.5" straight through muffler and put it in the middle of the exhaust, should quieten it down quite a bit removing the drone and bass. I had 2 straight through 3" mufflers on a 3" system and it was almost as quiet as stock, removed one and it has a very nice note now, not too loud and droney but not too quiet either. 3->3.5 is a reasonable size increase so I think you will find 2 mufflers will make it sound a lot nicer, most workshops will change it out for a plain resonator if you find it is too quite for not much more money.

Why is that?

Take it to the people who you paid to replace it and tell them the job isn't satisfactory. It could be a vacuum leak, have you checked everywhere for loose hoses and clamps? Old fouled plugs? Checked the ECU for error codes?

Please tell me they had insurance, that is months of profit right there.

http://justskylines.com/knowledgebase/widg...calculator.aspx Great website for stuff like this

Honestly you could probably run $10 black and gold 25w50 oil and change it every 2 years and you'd never see any issues until you strip the motor down 50,000kms later.

I don't even get what question there is to ask, just simply attach it with double sided tape or use some foam padding to space it out and use double sided tape on both sides. How hard can it be?