Rolls

Was the suspension overly stiff at the rear? Will cause the rear end to slide far more than you want for a rwd car, obviously if you primarily drift then you don't want to change much but some softer rear rates and dampners would probably be of big benefit.

Sorry I made a bit of an inaccurate statement, you are right there will be more oil between the two surfaces but at startup is when the trouble occurs, oil takes too long to flow through the parts and properly coat everything hence greater wear and less protection, also there is more power loss the thicker the oil. When the engine is at operating temp a really thin oil is going to offer less protection then a thicker oil, but thanks to the wonders of oil pumps and all the viscosity improving additives bugger all wear occurs during the running of the motor and the majority occurs at startup, hence a thinner oil generally provides better protection.

Thicker doesn't provide better protection, it is just required when you have very large or worn (large) tolerances.

I don't get why he would recommend a thicker oil when cold, when cold ALL oils are too thick, so a thinner cold rating has to be better, be interested to hear his answer if you told him this. I think it comes down to the fact that 95% of people have absolutely no idea about oils even when they sound like they do.

You are the one being aggressive and rude to people, lose that attitude if you want to hang around here, no need to get worked up over something silly like this. Also I recommend using sentences and paragraphs when typing, it makes your post far more legible and easier to read, hell it might even command you some more respect!

Managed to bump into a massive cruise full of cars of all types doing down anzac highway last night, joined it at the south road/cross road overpass, followed to marion, went home and then it was still going when I got to cross/south again. Followed it for a bit but everyone was being a dick and doing skids, cops were pulling everyone over, anyone know who organised it?

Nankangs are rubbish, even second hand federals with 50% wear are better tyres.

An NA 7 second car is one amazing feat, any more details on the engine, I'm curious.

Boost drops off but power keeps on climbing. Think I will leave it where it is and just be nice to it and avoid the limiter as much as possible.

If that is the issue, strike off one issue at a time until you find the cause, the bov is the most likely cause at the moment.

I don't really need to or want to rev it any higher due to the turbo setup, just trying to get an understanding of where it would fail and why with the current parts. A lot of anecdotal evidence with peoples personal rev limits but I haven't read much about where they will actually fail and what parts will go. Also providing a perfect tune what actually does kill them, limiter bashing, outright power, or just spinning the rpm too high no matter what the load is?

Going to get this done on Monday, will report back with how it performs. Now I have a question regarding the propaganda stories, if it works as well as it does why don't the big f-gas companies just start manufacturing hydrocarbon based refrigerants as well as the fluorocarbon ones? Is it patented? If not I can't work out why they don't just manufacture both products side by side, surely it would be more revenue and save wasting money on propaganda bs to scare everyone off.

Hah I spent 30 minutes searching and googling but that never popped up! Thanks.

I've read about these being 30% more efficient and will make your car a lot cooler, especially if it was designed with the now illegal R12 gas in mind, this is as the R12 is much more efficient than the newer gas so it can't cool as well as it was designed at the factory. However I've also read a few things about it being unreliable but it was possibly due to it being legal for users to install themselves putting the air con regassers out of business, hence them bad mouthing it. Anyone used it and care to report back? I am curious as I have a black car and I have to leave my gear knob off the shifter or use a glove to shift for the first 20 minutes on 35degree day as it gets that hot in there. Hell it even melted the sticker off the glass and turned a CD into liquid, even my sun viser melted into its socket so it is a complete pain in the ass to get in and out now. Basically summer sucks for driving and I want to make it more bareable.

You can get nistune modules for every skyline bar the R33 as it uses a difficult to modify CPU/eeprom However you can use the ECU out of an R32 or Z32 300zx to run your rb25 if you want. Problem is you need to use an eboost or msd switch to control the VCT if you go the r32 rb20 computer. Yeah that also works, just have to do it a few times to make sure you get the codes right.

As everyone has said the BOV is almost certainly causing the air flow readings to get stuffed up take it off or at least block it off. Also take it to a proper performance mechanic that has experience with similar cars next time, will save a lot of time wasted on diagnostics that someone who has seen the problems before will pick up immediately

Is it blowing clouds of black smoke? If not it could possibly be a fueling issue or faulty cas/afm. Can you get hold of a consult cable and check for error codes?

Yep that was part of the assembly everything was properly balanced and all tolerances double checked. Whilst I don't have any need to rev it over 7000 I guess I am more curious about the mechanical strength. I'm sure someone has done the calcs of where bits tend to let go and which parts need to be strengthened to overcome this.

Does it have a base map to run it? If not I'm not surprised it doesn't start, probably massively overfueling?

Not that I know of, would have to speak to the builder. I try and shift around 7000rpm but with the crap tyres I have it hits the limiter half the time as it doesn't get traction. Makes peak power from 6300 - 7200rpm basically flat there at 236kw

Just wondering what you guys think is a safe rev limit for my motor, the tuner set it at 7500rpm but I want to make sure it is likely to last hitting these revs. it has been build with acl race bearings, stock rods, arp rod bolts, arias forged pistons and everything else has just been freshened up and is standard. Running 18psi which drops down to 15 at the top end on a gcg highflowed rb20 turbo making 236kw and dropping off after about 7300rpm Would you guys set it lower at say 7-7.3k? or you think with decent bearings and better rod bolts it should be fine hitting 7500? It is a street car and only occasionally tracked, if I do I will aim to keep revs below 6500-7000 just to be kind to the motor.

rebuilt RB25 with forged pistons etc GTR Injectors Z32 AFM Nistune + RB20 Computer VCT running via eboost-street between 1500 and 4500rpm Running 18psi on a GCG highflowed RB20 turbo Full 3" straight through exhaust with one muffler, split pulse dump pipe. Makes 236kw @ 6300 - 7200rpm on 18psi, drops down to 15psi by redline due to the tiny exhaust housing. Makes 210kw on 12psi at similar rpm. rev limit at 7500rpm think the dyno is fairly low reading as the car is an absolute animal to drive, turbo has basically standard response and absolute zero lag, can make about 6psi by 2500rpm, full boost by about 3-3.5k

I reckon adding the FMIC and grounding the boost solenoid coupled with plug gap too big and old coils is your issue. Reason being the FMIC cools the intake charge so denser air = more fuel, boost upgrade also means the computer is going into the very rich parts of the map to try and stop you killing the motor (safety feature from factory). Now more fuel means the spark is more likely to be blown out, if you have a big gap (1.1) and old coil packs that aren't giving the best spark all the above could cause these issues. What I would suggest is first putting the boost back to standard, then gap plugs down to 0.8, then new coils. If this still hasn't fixed your problem then it looks like a remap/nistune is on the cards, they can pull the fuel out from 4.5k onwards which saps power and can cause rich misfires with bad spark. Personally I would get the remap first and have the cash ready to get new coils if needed, as the remap might mask the bad spark problem as they can pull enough fuel out to stop it missing, if the spark is bad enough then both new coils and getting it tuned should fix your problem right up, not to mention you can run 10-12psi and you will get more power and better economy. Now you say it is missing at low revs, I am assuming this is the typical 5k misfire that every second thread on this forum is about? Personally I got the misfire around 3k on partial throttle and at 5.5k on WOT, coils and a tune fixed the problem completely as the ECU was pushing enough fuel to drop the AFR to 9:1 blowing the spark out. edit: I don't think the power button has anything to do with it, you are probably overthinking it, unless of course it happens at a specific rpm and using different revs/load tends to make it occur more often, but you should be able to reach any load/rpm in standard shift mode as well.

I know you said there were no leaks but can you be absolutely sure? What about the intake, is it possible for it to partially suck shut, could the cat have collapsed? Possible to adjust the actuator rod and see what happens? All of the above could cause this issue.

http://www.hksusa.com/faq/?ID=1647 Tried calling/emailing them?