Rolls

A nistune is only $300 and about $300 to touch up the standard setup, it doesn't need a full tune from scratch as you have stock turbs etc, best bang for buck out of all of those options.

I'm sceptical of the truth of that link in regards to turbocharged cars, sticking a snail on the end of the exhaust adds a massive amount of back pressure already.

Does the front bar fit on? Nothing worse than hacked up front bars to fit an FMIC, always looks tacky and cheap.

Double sided tape?

The fact that your ECU uses a MAP sensor and not AFM is the issue. With an AFM even though the boost pressure remains the same you are allowing the engine to breathe better hence more air is flowing, the afm will compensate for this and change the load points, the MAP sensor however will not notice the difference and will use the same load points, hence throwing your tune out. If the dyno operator tweaked the tune ever so slightly it should at least make the same power, if not slightly more due to being able to run slightly more ignition timing from reduce EGTs and backpressure, should also spool a bit faster.

Almost certainly just the stock tune giving you grief, although in case it is something like clogged injectors or the fuel pump get it on the dyno and make sure it is not leaning out as this will kill your motor. Does it blow lots of black smoke when it starts to die? If so then a nistune and a proper dyno tune will almost certainly fix your problem. Don't need the Z32 afm unless you are aiming for 230kw+

Head porting is a real art, don't go anywhere that can't show you proven results on a dyno.

I cant believe no one has suggested the boost solenoid hack yet! The ECU makes the car run less boost below 4.5k then it runs full boost after. There is a tutorial on here showing you which wire to ground so that it runs full boost at all RPMs, will give you a much bigger punch in the midrange. Definitely give that a shot!

In my R32 I cut the ass out of the ashtray and mounted it inside there, when you flip it open it looks very tidy. Hid the solenoid underneath my AFM so that you need to unbolt the entire POD assembly to be able to even see it, no cop is ever going to find it. All the wires and vac hoses are cable tied underneath it as well.

Why does it have to be 96, there are plenty of good condition older skylines around, quite a few with the rb25 swap as well.

Was anyone lapping close to the winfield R32s at all? Curious to see how well their tech stands up to today's. I don't think anyone else had a fully stripped GTR or equivalent out there though?

I think if someone made a Whipple supercharger kit for a skyline that didn't require $5k of fabrication for custom manifolds and relocating power steering etc and wasn't ridiculously loud there would be a definite market for it. I know there is someone on here that has supercharged his RB25DE but he has had lots of issues with the bypass valve and making the car quieter than a 747 on full noise. If these problems could be ironed out I think a lot of people would use them. Would make the engine drive like a big capacity v8 which all the RB30 guys seem to love.

Maybe he was talking about the engine conversion? Or perhaps it is an automatic locker eg a detroit or lock right locker which acts like an open wheeler around the street but when you put your boot into it it locks completely, fairly dangerous as if it locks mid corner it will throw the balance off kicking the back out if you aren't used to it. Useful for drag racing and offroading but in a street car it would be dicey, that and for less you can get a proper LSD. Also re the 1.5 and 2way diffs, I thought a 2 way diff was actually cheaper as it is less parts, just clutch packs, where as a 1.5way has to do some fancy stuff so that it locks less on de-acceleration. Eg most standard clutch pack diffs, eg GTR, HR31, commodore etc are all 2 way diffs. Someone feel free to correct me though. edit: Personally it just sounds more and more dicey though as he most likely just doesn't have a clue about the car and made the figure up.

It runs any different?

Whipple superchargers usually have full boost by 1200rpm, don't even need any throttle.

There is loads for sale, post them up in this thread first, might be able to give you some more advice.

that's because it's an all boys school....

It is a massive pain in the ass to drive, it flogs out bushes, it destroys tyres, it is illegal, it makes the car handle worse, it is a cheapskate way to drift a car which says something about the person and the car. Eg they can't afford a proper LSD hence probably stinged on everything else, also that they drift it so it has probably had a hard life, the front end damage says that as well. I would be getting under the car personally and checking to see if the sump or sway bar is dented. A proper 1.5 way LSD centre costs about $900, installation would be around $2-400 depending on where you go and what else they do.

Personally I just get a bad vibe, find someone who is totally anal about their cars and has perfected all the small stuff, sure you will pay a premium and maybe 25% more than other examples but even after 1 year you will have saved yourself money as you won't have to fix everyone else's issues and dodgy mods (eg the locked diff).

Great video! Anyone know how much power the old godzilla GTRs make and what turbo combination they use?

Yeah sounds like it is all in the assembly and not the quality of the parts a lot of the time. Wrong clearances etc and not using 100% clean parts.

I am definitely interested if they are the same motor with supercharger vs turbo for similar power outputs.

I mean a motor that has been stripped and has brand new bearings etc in it. A second hand motor is no better than the original motor. Compression test won't cost you more than $200 if you couple it with a full inspection at any decent skyline workshop. With the oil just check that it actually has oil and that it isn't 100% black, dark brown is normal and means it is doing it's job, just watch out for a car that looks like it has never had the oil changed.

Sure but even though they don't have to give insurance on it there is a thing called unreasonable faults. Eg if you buy a TV with a 12 month warranty and it fails dramatically 12 months out you can argue that it did not have a reasonable life time considering the parts and more often than not get it replaced. The thing is no one can be bothered going to court over it.

I wouldn't buy a car with a locker unless the motor had been rebuilt so you have some insurance it isn't on its last legs, make sure you get a compression and leakdown test, also check the oil etc.