Rolls

Manifold + external gate will cost more than replacing it with a small gt30, eg 3071 Also it MAY not work which would make it very expensive.

External gate and a larger exhaust manifold would help a little by giving more volume of metal to heat soak, would also reduce friction ever so slightly. Might be enough to stop it, might not.

So much for making a bolt in package haha

and yes a new cat will make it quieter if yours is gutted, mainly reduce the drone like a resonator would.

Car was above legally loud with a 3" system with a single stuffed muffler and soot on the back. They seemed far far more interested in my child seat anchors not being completely visible, 3rd brake light, and hole in my seat though???

I went through regency multiple times with a gutted cat, not once did they check it.

Old post but retarded timing means that lots of the energy is lost as heat out the exhaust port, advanced timing means more of that heat is converted into mechanical energy.

about 2 weeks ago

post in forced induction

I haven't read this topic lately, in terms of using a standard exhaust manifold and standard comp and exhaust housings is there anything new to offer lately? Using that what power can be expected with full boost around the ~3500-3700rpm range?

Just like a women you irrationally love your rb20 as well! I'm guessing but the r33 25det intake and runners bolt up to the neo 25det, so the rb20 might be the same.

Ever carried a spray can or a deorderant can in your car? Because you are a f**king idiot if you have, imagine if you had a car accident and that can leaked the butane into the cabin, then imagine if it managed to spread perfectly with the air and reach the explosive limit and explode! :rolleyes: :rolleyes: In reality what is most likely to happen is it would leak slowly, even if you did manage to rupture it badly it would dissipate very quickly, and in the unlikely scenario that it manages to mix perfectly with oxygen so it explodes instead of just makes a small puff of flame it still has f**k all energy in it, I would be infinitely more worried about what would happen to you if you had a car accident and say your head hit the steering wheel or a-pillar. The safety is a complete non issue. He was implying that he hopes we can find a non flammable alternative to hychill and that only the oil is flammable in the RF12 whatever, I don't think he was contradicting himself.

Why do you guys care if people like flutter etc? What makes your opinion more correct than theirs, if they want flutter then let them have it, they aren't forcing you to drive with them.

Take the lid of your airbox and get a highflow panel filter, that will make it louder.

Has a better head that flows almost what the 25 neo head does, solid lifters, VCT, basically it will be a shitload better than an oldschool rb20, it probably also has the compression increase that came with the rb25 so it should make a big difference, still why not just go 25 neo, win win!

Yes I did. CALL them, don't email.

Ring the hychill distributor, that is what I did.

$150 is what I paid.

I got it free with the car, personally if I did it again I would buy a hypergear, not BB but performs slightly better and only ~$1k A genuine garret would be the best but I want stealth so I can pass a regency inspection without having to change a single part. Sorry no idea about the part number, just call up nissan they will know what you are talking about.

rb20 gcg highflow, think it has gt2871r spec wheels, comes on boost sooner than a standard rb25 turbo due to the tiny rear housing, 5psi by 1800 rpm and holds ~16 to redline

How good is this stuff, does it work and if so what product is best? I've read it is mainly used in extreme pressures eg the mating of gears not bearings. My father said him and his mates used to use it all the time in their old flogged out cars/bikes and it was magic, though I'm unsure if this is just an old bs tale eg like putting a banana and wood chips in your diff, also with the advances in oil technology if it is now redundant. Cheers.

They can fine you technically for each individual ADR violation, something like $150 but they are allowed to just caution you instead, so he doesn't even need a reason to give you a fine and it will be all by the book still.

As far as I know rb20/25/26 clutches and flywheels are all the same anyway, but I used my old rb20 clutch and flywheel as the neo motor was an auto with a flex plate.

So my clutch is extremely worn (looked shagged when we changed my motor) it feels really soft but this makes it easy to drive around town and it doesn't slip on boost or on hard changes (even with 260rwkw) so I don't want to swap it out yet. Anyway recently I had it resprayed and it was off the road for about 3 weeks, now I have it back it is really hard to put it into first and 2nd crunches most the time as if the clutch isn't fully disengaging. The friction point feels like it is 1cm off the floor so I am going to try and adjust the pedal, however this is no doubt just masking the real problem, what is likely the cause of this, my slave/master cylinder on the way out? something wrong with the clutch fork? the selector forks in the gearbox? There is plenty of fluid in the system and it doesn't appear to be leaking either. Thanks

My rb20 did it so bad I literally could not rev past 5500 rpm, it was like a rev limit, I've seen very bad cases with both motors, though it may well be worse with 25s.