Rolls

if you took them to court they would have to pay up, but being as you didn't conduct the deal with them the previous owner would have to go.

Yeah that is a good point, probably a bit longer is the best bet.

neeedddd videos!

Please please tell me someone got some footage of the wingfield GTRs with decent sound quality, so pissed I couldn't attend, got to see them on display down at the bay yesterday though which was sweet.

Depends on the tolerances and if it was a sloppy build etc.

MBT?

don't bother getting a remap unless it is on a dyno.

I don't think it is that different from a couple of years ago.

but in 1st and 2nd it would be more like 5-6k yeah?

Lol I really doubt that, they are on full boost at what 4000rpm+ ? A stock turbo is on by 2500rpm max.

Absolutely normal, I've seen them read as low as 120kw with stuffed coils and things like that. Ground the boost solenoid so it runs 10psi all the time and get the ECU remapped with new plugs and coils if they necessary. Should see 170-200kw depending on the dyno. I've seen 12psi with a free flowing exhaust before.

Find something with a rebuilt motor and receipts to prove it, you'll save so much money and it is good insurance. Make sure it has at least 2000kms on it so that you know the build is going to last. Even if it costs you $5k more than every other example, you'll have saved $20k in 2 years time. I bought an R32 for $11k recently and it had $20k of mods on it, sure it still needed things done to it but the amount of money I saved is incredible.

What is the difference like?

What would be very interesting is seeing the motors held at 5000rpm with no load then stomping on the loud pedal and comparing the curves that way. I'm surprised no one does this as it would be a great way to demonstrate transient response. Obviously the same ramp rates and gearing would need to be used for it to be a useful comparison, but I don't think that would be too hard to do.

Big issue is no Australian dealers, means you gotta pay a fair bit for shipping and there's a long wait if anything goes wrong. If someone local would start supplying them I'm sure they would be a great alternative. A standard rb25 turbo would be fine for that.

Adjust the actuator rods, could be too tight.

A shorter diff is better a lot of the time, what is the issue, you do a lot of freeway driving?

read the dyno thread and do a search, anything bigger than stock will spool slower than standard.

I used a screwdriver with a socket attachment on the end, much smaller than your normal socket set and fairly cheap, always comes in handy for things like this.

Surely for the flex fuel to work they need to do lost of dyno time varying the mixture to confirm the afrs are correct? Or do you mean essentially use one or the other.

Looks horribly laggy, even on a dyno it isn't hitting full boost until 5000rpm, what is it like on the road in 1st and 2nd, nothing nothing then it just smashes the limiter getting no traction? Still it is a fair effort for the 20, would be good for burnouts and drags, don't reckon it'd go too well on the track though.

It is all about flow and the tune not the psi. Pressure is just a measure of restriction, if you get your head flowed, bigger cams, larger exhaust side of the turbo and larger intake then your psi will drop but you are pushing just as much if not more air. Also you could tune a motor running 6psi so badly that it will cook itself if you try. A better measure of is how much power the engine can make before it goes bang, assuming a perfect tune. I've seen a few 250kw+ rb20s on here last more than a few years but it all comes down to many factors. If you are making 220kw with a safe tune with maybe 15-20psi I don't see why you couldn't get a lot of life out of it This is a flawed question, you should be asking what turbo for x rwkw with similar to standard response. PSI doesn't mean anything unless you specify the turbo combination. As 15psi on a small turbo will flow similar power to 8psi on a much larger turbo. Your best bet is a steel wheeled highflowed rb20/rb25 turbo that aren't too much bigger. The lowest HP rating highflow turbos are probably your cheapest option, otherwise a 2530 etc. These will all make 200-230kw on roughly 16psi+ although you won't have standard response, it will definitely be laggier. If you want standard response I would recommend an rb25 turbo, these can push 180-190kw with a good tune and 12psi, will only increase the lag by about 500rpm.

That's the key if you act like a tosser then they are going to treat you like one. If you are respectful and present yourself well it is surprising what you can get out of. The other thing is people tend to power trip and need to be in control, if you look intimidating or aggressive people will tend to react the same way back trying to prove their authority and status as the alpha, this will only make your problems worse. If you submit and let them know that they are the one in control they will almost always act differently and more in your favour. Lots of interesting psychology studies on things like this. Of course nothing is going to get you out of having a zip tie'd front bumper bar and a car that looks like it is going to cause a major accident.

I would never use an oil flush unless there were massive chunks coming out when you drain the oil. If the oil is incredibly black even after you have just drained it I would consider just putting a cheap oil in there, running it around the block then dumping it, repeat until the oil no longer drains out completely black and use a decent oil. Flushes have the tendency to get deposits stuck in oil galleries and lifters etc causing more problems then you had to start with. Also when you drain the oil jack the car up on the opposite side to the drain plug, you'll get more of the sludge sitting at the bottom of the sump out.

Need to hear more about this Neil fellow.