Rolls

Look forward to seeing the results. I've read some threads on here where people have put fairly average oils in full blown race cars and compared them to 300v etc and said there was minimal difference and that the overwhelming majority of oils were ample for their needs. Even after having a fully synth oil sitting in a car for a year and several race meets it was still in great condition. I think the people who use a $120 oil and change it every 4000kms are a bit silly, you could use a crap oil and even if the engine blows up you'd still be ahead after a few years.

Put the timing back to whatever it is meant to be standard.

How many of you guys get oil analysis done to see which oils are working better and how well they are lasting? Would be good to see instead of a lot of the anecdotal evidence that I read on here, not saying the oils are bad or people are wrong just that it'd be interesting.

I paid $300 for the unit when I supplied the ECU, a basic safe tune was then $300. Depending on your level of mods and if they can use a decent base map that just needs to be tweaked a full tune where they tweak and check everything can vary from $500 to $1500.

For it to miss even in neutral means they must be pretty damn stuffed, I would pull them out and check for arcing etc, there is loads of threads on diagnosing and repairing them, definitely worth a shot before forking out $500 for new ones. Personally I still think that the car is out of tune for whatever reason and the rich afr is the main cause of your problem, a rich mixture will blow out the spark below 9:1 most the time no matter how good the ignition setup is.

Means it is running very rich, is it possible you have a boost leak as 5psi is way too low for RR to be kicking in, unless of course you have a faulty AFM or something making it think it is reading more air than it actually is. Can you get a diagnostic plug and check for error codes?

Nothing wrong with that, a lot of the things you can get a decent idea about by just doing a few searches, if you get stuck ask then.

Yeah in a drag race the outright power would definitely win but around the street and tight hills it would be very close.

if it is really restrictive it will sap lots of power but I don't think it would cause missing etc.

np, I'm fairly sure I'm picking the car up friday so will PM you when I get it back.

if you ran it for 30 secs it is probably fine but if you flood it so bad that theres literally pools of fuel in the cylinders it will drain down into the sump if you leave it overnight contaminating the oil.

well what did you expect lol, its just going to run ridiculously rich I'm surprised it even idles, the ECU isn't a magician, it expects certain things to remain constant as it it injects fuel based on airflow temp and throttle position, if you go changing the base fuel pressure then the injectors are going to be injecting far more fuel at the same duty cycle. why did you install it? standard ones are good for 300rwkw

yeah its the green sticker s1 afm I have, was from an rb20 originally.

Speak to a mechanic that can do all of this stuff for you, you are just going to end up shit creek if you have to come ask here about every single item all the time.

Was it tuned with the aftermarket fpr? if not then you can't really expect it to work...

Probably a combination of RR making it run rich as hell and crappy old coils/plugs giving a weak spark making it missfire. Replacing the coils might fix it if they are bad but you will still be running too rich, a remap or safc, nistune etc will more than likely fix your issue and if it isn't the issue it is still a great upgrade, more power, better fuel economy etc providing you get someone who knows what they are doing to tune it. A boost leak will cause issues like this as well though, check all your piping and hose clamps. If you have an exhaust and pod etc you can easily run over 10psi, I've seen up to 12psi with no boost controller and a free flowing exhaust before.

Yeah it is just in the process of being changed over to a z32 item right now for my retune with diff injectors etc so it is definitely working. I am in Adelaide but could post it, I might steal the sticker off the casing to make mine look stock but that doesn't affect its working. Dunno say $100 and I'll post it anywhere in Australia? Should be able to send it early next week if you are interested, a no fuss fix to your issue.

Because on the street it will be just as fast as 275kw with his laggier turbo for example, I think you could get 260kw out of it if you used E85 quite easily.

Located 5 mins drive south west of the CBD Adelaide.

Located 5 mins drive south west of the CBD Adelaide.

it is not a waste of time if his computer has the stock maps, even without a boost increase a remap on the dyno would be of great value, more power, response and better fuel economy.

Actually they are a brilliant invention, without them we would have alarge amounts more smog and a large increase (im talking 20% of the pop) in asthma and breathign problems. However if your cat is the original and 20 years old it is probably not doing anything anyway so no real harm with removing it.

You can just drop these pumps in and you are done but they won't function optimally, the nismo one might operate at a slightly lower voltage but old dodgy wiring can still be an issue. Personally I would spend the 30 minutes running a new 12V cable from the fuse box and then power a relay via the stock wiring, gives you piece of mind and you know it will last, really isn't any work at all, a few crimp connections, pull the carpet sides up and cable tie all the cables up.

interesting stats, lots of failed motors but they are in the minority.

Is there really that much difference between the neo and the r33 rb25?