Rolls

Yeah I was just wiring it directly to the battery for testing, will set up the eboost with a relay so that I can get the polarity correct. I'll give it a go with the engine off, should make it easier to hear, hope it isn't stuffed. Can anyone confirm that the location in the pictures is correct?

Yeah if you could take a pictures of where it is wired to, also if you could open the bonnet and give it a rev, see if there is an audiable click when it switches on/off, that would be a big help. Could be that I wired it up correctly but it just doesn't make any noise and without a tune the difference isn't that noticeable, just don't want to damage the solenoid by wiring it up wron, can't really imagine how though, its just a simple inductor.

Bump, surely someone has set this up before, I've heard of lots of people using MSD switches etc. Any help would be very much appreciated.

The 20 computer is better as you can use a nistune module and basically get the functionality of a full aftermarket ecu, this is not possible with the 25 computer. The only issue is the 20 computer cannot run the VCT but an aftermarket controller like an eboost street/2 boost controller with an auxillery window can do this. The 20 computer also wont have issues with the hicas computer not being plugged in (25 one will expect this), all your dash controls will work properly (25 can do this more more rewiring) and you will only need to change the tps and maybe the ignitor module depending on the series of 25 you get. Also with the 20 computer it means you can buy a 25 without the sensors/loom/ecu and save cash. If you go the 25 computer route you need all of these components. You should be able to find the wiring diagrams on this forum with some searching, I've found them in the past with about 30 minutes of searching.

Personally I would use the rb20 loom and get the computer remapped, sounds easier to me, less sensors need to be swapped over. Sounds like you are going to need an auto electrician and pay them a lot of money if you can't do it yourself though. The only way to do it is to get a copy of both electrical diagrams and figure out what needs to go where.

do they randomly strip down motors to verify?

Surely the lighter the better? Why do you have to run stock weight?

You will need to change the TPS to a series 1 R33 unit if you plan to use the rb20 ecu, you will obviously need to remap the computer as well, a nistune is the best option here as it makes retuning the ecu on the dyno very easy.

If you remove it how will the car idle? The throttle body is closed so there will be no source of air! Definitely need an idle air control valve. Whether you can use a different one depends on how they are wired up, I imagine they are just a duty cycled solenoid much like an injector, so as long as the tuning software allows adjustment of the gain factor for the valve you should be able to really use anything. Feel free to correct me if I am wrong though.

Definitely, I just want to get a better guage on how many do go wrong, hopefully the people with successful builds will click on the poll.

So I'm trying to set my eboost street to run the VCT on my RB25DET as it has a auxillary output with window and boost parameters. Now I managed to find a bosch water temp sender plug which is exactly the same as the VCT solenoid plug, wired up some cables to it and tried giving them 12v straight from the battery when it was running to see if it would click over. How loud is the solenoid as I tried both polarities but couldn't hear any click. I also hard wired it both way and took it for a drive down the street with absolutely no difference. Just incase I'm wiring up some random sensor instead of the VCT , can someone confirm this is indeed the solenoid? Or is it another water temp sender, as there is one in the mount that goes to the radiator hose that looks identical, however the car obviously runs fine without it plugged in. Running an RB20 ECU atm. Is on the front of the head next to the cam cover and sticks out looking like this: http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:CzIlfyN...90d.jpg&t=1 Or this picture right at the front on the right next to the injector plugs http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/9606/vctm.jpg

Blockage somewhere in the dump, maybe where they've plumbed it back in is real messy and has metal blocking half it?

You'll probably want to pick up a change of plugs for afterwards as the bog stock tunes are nice and rich so you'll probably foul them up.

So I've read so many horror stories of workshops rebuilding engines on here and forgetting to tension the timing belt, wrong bearing clearances, oil pumps not machined correctly, wrong oil pump etc. I'm sure I only hear the bad stories, but I'd like to get an idea of how many percent of engines workshop or user built don't last and blow up. The poll is multiple choice so if you have rebuilt multiple motors pick the appropriate one.

lol his posts are on topic and reasonable informative, i dont see the issue. Yep, a lot of people forget to take into account weight and gearing, two big factors that can make a big difference.

Due to my eboost street having a window auxiliary controller built in I've discontinued this, I have the schematic available but no real code if anyone wants to continue it, just don't have time with work to finish it.

Exactly, twins might come on ever so slightly sooner than the equivalent single, but theres not a huge difference. You can get laggy twins and a responsive single and vice versa. Both setups can be poorly setup to give you a massive kick when the come on boost. Your best option is going the responsive setup and doing as nismoid said, use half throttle till 5000rpm and then stomp on it, that'll give you the best kick out of them all lol.

The same power will feel identical, you just get the benefit of not needing such high diff ratios hence it will feel faster with the same gearing, if you adjust the gearing to compensate for the higher up power then it will feel identical.

You have misinterpreted what I said. More torque means more power at a specific rpm. Eg at 5000rpm if you increase the torque, you will always increase the power at that exact rpm. Looking at the relationship between torque and power you can see this will always be the case.

Used to be $59 at Marion shopping centre here in Adelaide.

Where is the VCT solenoid in the engine bay? Also when does it switch on, 1500 - 4000 rpm? or is it 5000 rpm. Just got my eboost street and it has a window aux function which I am planning on using to control my VCT. Also does the VCT activate when you ground the relay, or provide power to it? Cheers

Just make a massive lead and bring it in via one of the grommets in the engine bay. You could always drill a hole in the floor pan and put another grommet there, but that is a bit messy.

or just get divorced and spend all the money shes wastes on the car

Take the motor out, pull it apart and then take it to the workshop, get them to do the very important and delicate assembly, then do the rest yourself. You should be able to knock a couple of grand off the price if you do that. Also if you use the same parts you should be able to use the same tune with just a touch up also saving maybe $500-1000 in dyno time. Was that actually confirmed or did the engine just shit itself for whatever reason and someone just guessed that was the cause?

Sure but I guess my main point was torque and hp can be interchanged in the setence 'it is the torque you feel' because if you increase torque, you increase hp and vice versa.