Rolls

Standard tachos can be wrong by up to 1000rpm when you are flicking the revs up and down in the lower gears due to the momentum of the needle. I really doubt a reputable tuning shop wouldn't have set a rev limit, can you hook it up to a PC and check? I don't know much about power FCs but do they hold stats like highest rpm ever seen etc? Could be handy with diagnosing. I'd be getting a decent oil pressure guage and checking that before driving it anymore though.

I wish people would stop saying things like this, torque and power are directly related, at a given rpm with a given power level, you will always have the same amount of torque and vice versa. You feel the acceleration, this is caused by power OR torque, they are both the same thing when you are talking about acceleration. This is pretty much correct except change in torque is identical to change in power, basically where there is the biggest slope in the dyno graph is where you will feel the biggest punch in your back.

How did you go with all of this, figure the problem out?

I have a gcg highflowed rb20 turbo, the specs are basically identical to their highflow rb25 turbo, just slightly smaller housing I think but they bore it out to around the same. It is on an rb25 but it is on full boost by 3500rpm and has made about 6-7psi by the high 2000s. Very responsive and makes over 200kw on just 10psi, expecting about 240 on 16+ On the rb20 I would do as the others have suggested and stick with a stock rb25 turbo, anything much bigger and you will be sacrificing response for top end, won't be much fun to drive.

I'd be asking some serious questions to the tuner and builder.

that is dodgy as hell, hook a computer up and graph AFRs to rpm. You will be able to get a much much smoother power delivery if you do that.

The police have the right to do anything they want, that includes strip searching you and your car. All they need is 'suspicion' which is very easy to make up. Also use paragraphs and sentences in the future, it is very hard to read.

backpressure is never a good thing, the bigger the better when it comes to turbo exhausts, always! Obviously to a point though, a 5" dump isn't going to be of benefit.

yes your car will not run! it will require a complete retune, this is why there is NO POINT installing it. The only reason people install them is because they have maxed out the standard airflow meter with their turbo setup.

Check the timing and TPS volts with ECUtalk when the revs are jumping with static throttle. If either of them are changing it sounds like a buggered TPS or possibly CAS or knock sensor, any of these as the potential to change the timing causing weird issues like this. ECU talk should be able to diagnose this problem for you. Another thing to do is enable datalogging and do some 0-redline launches and compare the datalogs of when it 'surges' and when it doesn't, should show which sensor is causing the issue, if none then look at fueling and ignition sources.

How hard could it be to remount the element inside the standard AFM shell?

Water boils at 100c and they take what 2 minutes to heat water to this with 1L capacity? If you are pumping 12L of oil and circulating it you wouldn't burn it.

Is that just a single resonator? Man that must be loud.

You can make basically any turbo in the world fit if you want, but the 2530 would be about as big as you want to go on the 20 without sacrificing too much low down power.

Rb25 definitely.

band aid fix, and it probably wont fix your problem. Get the car properly tuned by remapping the ECU or a nistune. Fairly cheap and will see great results. Do it once and do it properly.

I thought you had no room left? Or would a lowmount still fit?

Thought that but have been through 2 tanks of BP premium and 1 of vortex 98 with it being slow about 90% of the time, some days it will random switch maps and absolutely hoot for a few hours, then back it goes. I guess the only real test will be when it goes on the dyno with all my new bits.

I personally did not tune the car so I don't know if they touched the low octane map, I doubt they did as it was just a quick safe tune. The knock levels never really went over 30 when I was datalogging, is this considered high?

Well he copied the standard rb25det base map onto it and the modified it, I thought the R&R feature was technically not a feature and just the upper load/rpm points on the fuel/ignition maps where it just dumped fuel and pulled ignition? In some datalogs the AFM voltage gets to 5 - 5.1v so it is definitely maxing out at times. However my issue is it is pulling power across the board, it is more noticeable around 2-3.5k where it jsut feels like it is making 20kw max then about 4.5-5.5k the power kicks real hard and then dies again by 5800rpm. It wasn't always like this and the turbo is making decent boost by 3k so it isn't a characteristic of the setup. I realised the Q45 would be annoying but I need a new pod/adaptor anyway, and it comes with a plug to suit so it is only one 90 to 80mm reducer I would need to adapt it, but I might re-consider it as I haven't bought it yet.

I've got a nistune in an R32 ecu running the rb25. Why do you say the Q45 is ass? I haven't got it yet but a mate has a brand new one with plug he was willing to sell for $100, thought it was a better buy than $250 for a Z32. I've heard it has less resolution than the Z32 but should be fine for a 250kw application. Cheers for the comment though paul, I guess being as the weather is colder now is why it's picking up the RR part of the map when it didn't used to. I'm assuming they only remapped the mid/lower parts of the map that it reached on the dyno and left the low timing/rich bits for safety up top. It doesn't puff black smoke and misfire like the standard RR part of the map though, so they must have pulled some fuel out.

ok when you click edit, you just load the post into a buffer, delete it from the textbox, let the user add their content, then append the text in the textbox to the post that's in a buffer. sure maybe not one line, but it is far from complicated.

Its a piece of piss nismoid! String UpdatedMessage = oldMessage + newMessage; It would be maybe 1 or 2 lines absolute max, all you have to do is append the new post to the old one.

What about a feature where we can add to the first post, but we cannot delete from it? that way sellers can't delete their info, but they can update prices etc?

It has a rev limiter at 6000, it was tuned and the afrs are fine all the way to that 6000rpm redline. It was just a safe get me by tune until I passed inspection and got it regod with the 25 and could fit all the other gear up. The injectors only get to 80% duty cycle so theres more in them still. So does anyone actually know roughly what sort of timing I should be seeing at 6000rpm on full boost? I'd like to find if its something else thats faulty and replace it before it gets tuned again, don't want to book it in only to have them spot it for me immediately. If it is the AFM though then no big deal.