Rolls

Its via direct route, you live in burnside don't you? you can make a pretty direct route to regency via tyre power surely. As long as you aren't driving to mt barker or lonsdale the cops are gonna have a pretty hard time fining you for using your permit incorrectly, especially as they are related to the inspection. Hell if you can get to glandore via a 'direct route' then you can come borrow my 32 wheels (great tread) providing you swap all yours on so it has something to sit on until you get back, I'm going to be home all day.

Maybe remove the pod and put the air box back, and consider putting some sound deadening around the unit?

Running too rich will cause a misfire as well people. I had brand new splitfire coil packs, brand new plugs gapped to 0.65 and it still misfired. Got it on the dyno and it was getting down to 9:1 AFRs which are low enough to cause a rich misfire. A proper remap fixed this issue straight away.

What is this car going to be used for with 800hp?

I think they are talking about using a factory ECU from another motor, eg an rb20 ecu on an rb25 etc with no tuning done. I doubt it would even run but if it did then what they said is completely true.

Yeah the numbers inspection places don't usually notice anything unless you get a guy who knows the nissan engine codes, I went in for one in my R32 skyline planning to have a full inspection (since passed) and they stamped red stamps all over the form saying no compliance plate, engine capacity increased by 25% needs full roadworthy, was no way of getting out of that one. During the inspection being a skyline they had 3 guys shining torches in every crevice of the motor making sure the carbon canister was attached, injectors were standard, even knew what colour the AFM sticker was meant to be, he even picked that I had a new turbo on there, but couldn't prove it as it was a highflow, the only thing they didn't do was open up my ECU and check inside.

If you ever have to have a full inspection due to defect etc you will get caught out on that one. The guys that look at the skylines are pretty clued on and would pick that straight away.

Sorry I read that as standard ECU that hasn't been tuned. In that case I would be checking how rich the tune is, as 10:1 and lower can cause rich misfires even with splitfires and good spark.

What was the compression on the rest?

If you have a built motor that can handle the high rpms required for a big spread of power then yes I agree with you, I was more getting at power coming on after 4.5k and a redline of 7.5-8k which is barely 3k of usable power band. If it comes on at 3k though then sure, go for it, I don't doubt that it feels responsive.

I don't know why people don't just aim for 280kw that comes on as soon or even earlier than the standard turbos, it will make for a faster street car, full boost at 4500rpm just sounds awful, sure you might have an extra 80kw in the top end but you are losing more than that in the low/mid range making the car slower overall on the street, not to mention the transient response of using the larger turbos. I would rather max a turbo out and have it fall over in the top end than go a size up and make more top end power. Response and low down power is where it is at.

16 valve Must be an oldschool silvia or something.

Your results don't make much sense, it should cause the biggest increase in power towards redline, not in the midrange. Was it a back to back dyno on the same day?

Because theres almost 3 pages of people giving you advice and you flat out ignoring them, you come across as immature, that along with the way you type entices people to do so. Sorry if that sounds rude but that is the way I see it.

I'm running arias pistons, but its quite a loud racket for about a minute, if the cold start pulls the ignition timing (only seems to do it 1/3 starts for some reason) they don't rattle though, generally the lower the revs the worse it is, might have to look into getting the tune amended. Anyway I'll stop taking this thread off topic. So NYTSKY you reckon the 30 will chirp second?

Just curious how bad the tolerances must be on my motor for them to rattle for a solid minute when cold.

Did you get any rattle out of the pistons when cold?

Sell the car and buy one that already makes 250kw, it'll be approx $5-10k cheaper and it won't take you a year.

It's that easy?

If your car has the original cat and over 150k old I doubt it would be working anyway so half the cars on the road would fail that test. I've never heard of a single person EVER being fined $10k in over 7 years of reading forums like these. Surely if you did actually get stung with a fine that big you would be kicking up a huge fuss. Mine has a relatively new high flow cat and still blows massive flames now and then, it has a fairly rich tune as it was just to get me through an inspection so quite a bit of fuel on the overrun, has anyone experienced this? Would be surprised if someone had piped it, certainly doesn't look like it.

Just out of curiosity what do you use this car mainly for, just as a weekend warrior? Or does it see lots of track action? No doubt I would lose my license very quickly with that sort of power on the street, ~200kw is enough in this cold weather atm for me! Read all 56 pages over the last 2 days, was a top read! One thing I would add is you should consider plumbing your catch can back into the intake, that way you will get vacuum assist to help scavenging all the blow by gases etc, might result in a little oil in the intake but generally nothing wrong with that. Also how much difference was there with the VCT power wise down low? Curious as mine is currently not connected (using rb20 ecu) but I am considering building a controller for it.

You won't get away with that in SA, they check your ECU as part of a defect inspection here.

Thats a bit rough, one of my mates has a 300kw turbo rotary 929 sedan thats only 900kg insured for 20k and only pays $600 a year, another mate has a mazda 1600 ute with a turbo gas rotary in it insured for $17k for $520 a year. Should really try and get that quote adjusted.

I'm not sure it will work either otherwise other people would have done it by now, but I'm curious as to where I am going wrong. I suspect that intake heat is a function of boost pressure, not how much air it is supplying as if this is the case, then what I proposed doesn't work.

Lets say the limiting factor for your engine producing more power is the turbo, and not the fuelling system/strength of internals. An example is the stock turbo on say an rb25det, being as to run say 12psi the turbo has to spin harder and harder as the revs rise to continue to keep producing the same boost level (as more air is required) it is obvious it is going to be spinning almost twice as fast at say 7500rpm opposed to 3500rpm even though the boost level remains the same. Now I was wondering if this means you could run say 15-18psi at low rpms when the turbo first comes on, say around 3-4500rpm and then have it drop back down to 10psi towards redline. This way you would be maintaining fairly constant rpms in the turbo and you would be getting far more power in the midrange without overspeeding it at redline. Now this is assuming that reason the air heats up in the turbo is due to the speed it is operating at, and not the pressure it is running. Could someone confirm if my thinking is correct or not? Because if it is and the air temps are ok at low rpm even at higher boost levels, then I cannot think of any reason why this would be detrimental to the engine or the turbo, providing of course the motor/fuel system could sustain 18psi.