Rolls

They will really open up your ECU? I have never heard of this being done before, I would argue that they could damage something with static and that I would refuse to let them dismantle something in my car, unless there is obvious stickers all over the ECU saying it has been chipped/has a nistune module in it then I can't see why they would want to open it up.

Was just stating the obvious, nothing more.

You talk like a 17 year old who just got their Ps, that is why you are copping flack.

Um they are both defectable items, unless the steering wheel has a boss kit and is ADR approved it is defectable as it could cause serious injury in an accident, same goes for the tyre, theres a chunk missing? It could blow out at high speed or if you spin the wheels, also very dangerous. I'd replace them and go to the police station though, they should be able to clear it as I didn't think they were regency required. Because otherwise you could get a blow out, spin out and hit another car injuring yourself, your steering wheel which doesn't have an approved boss kit fails to collapse properly and smashes your head open. They are reasonable defects.

I lol, what did you do to manage to get your car impounded? Must have been doing something pretty outrageous lol.

Think about how a turbo works, exhaust gas = more air, more air = more exhaust gas, more exhaust gas = more air.... see where I am going with this? If the wastegate never opens it is essentially an infinite loop creating more and more boost, obviously the temperature will skyrocket and something will break eventually. At a certain psi the exhaust gas might be under enough pressure to force the wastegate flap open even with no pressure on the actuator, could be why it drops down from 15psi when you have been trying it.

If you force the wastegate flap shut I can guarantee you you will see at least 30psi until redline, motor will probably explode somewhere along the line though.

In theory it could probably work, in real life by the time you've hired a dyno, built the electronics to cap the AFM voltage and bought an adjustable fuel reg it will have cost more than a nistune and be absolutely shit in comparison.

They have a harder life and shred 3rd gear a lot, for only saving $200 you have to modify the box quite a lot and then run the risk of it being in far worse condition than the 2wd box. Not worth it for a $200 saving. This is essentially what nismoid said.

Made a gasket out of a coke can, cut a square hole about 1cm^2 in the middle, put it on top of the original metal gasket and did it up as tight as I could. Result was very quiet flutter and no BOV noise, the car is also much faster so I'm guessing the old one was leaking boost for whatever reason, or possibly was opening up whilst on vacuum making the turbo work harder. Highly recommend it to people who want flutter but not annoying VL dose style, or if they want to quieten down the bov noise, I'm sure if I made the hole slightly bigger it would be even quieter again.

rb20det with an rb25 turbo, however 14psi with a 25 turbs on a 20 det is more like 10-12 psi on a 25 as the 20 doesn't eat as much air as the 25.

Totally depends on who built it, highflow doesn't mean anything, it just means its been ground out and had different wheels/bearings put in it, could be anything.

Isn't a mines ECU exactly the same as a stock ECU, it just has a different epprom in it for the maps?

Continental sport contact 2 in the standard R32 GTST size, 205x16 Managed to get 4 of these that had been sitting around for 8 months with 99% tread for $50 thanks to my buddy whos a mechanic at a very high end car store in adelaide. Normally retail for ~$300 each. Had to give them a decent burnout to iron out the flatspots and shit on them but after that they have come really good. Better performance than my federal 595ss 235x45x17s I had before and they are much smaller! Grip in the dry is brilliant, can do 2nd gear launches with 200rwkw and it spins a bit but takes off harder than I can launch it in 1st. Will report back with wet handling.

Yeah but when you get a diff rebuilt they don't replace the crown and pinion gears unless they are f**ked, so being as these are still 100km+ old still that's why it is noisy.

Full 2.5 straight through exhaust with split pulse dump pipe no cat or mufflers, FMIC, pod and had coilpacks replaced. Was running 12psi without a boost controller due to the free flowing exhaust.

Sell it and buy a 25det box, make some money and save butchering a good box.

Once a diff starts whining that is it, it will never be quiet again. It is almost always caused by wear on the crown and pinion teeth, a common cause is people putting a diff back together and not correctly setting the backlash, this causes accelerated wear which can turn a silent diff into a noisy one in just a few kilometres Changing the oil can decrease the noise ever so slightly, but it will never work miracles, this is most likely what has happened with you.

This is why nistune is such a brilliant way to get a completely tuneable ECU, cheap and it has more features than most aftermarket ECUs. The reason I imagine the map does that is because when 100% standard the car most likely runs only along 75% of the map, then when it gets modified you run up to the rest of the cells, because nissan assumed that this was because someone had slapped a dirty big turbo on it they retard the ignition immensely to prevent damage, however during normal driving with a stock setup the ECU would never reach those cells.

Someone did it to an oldschool RWD celica, basically had to cut and shut half the car to do it though. No offence but this is a pretty retarded idea, you will spend a ridiculous amount of money to end up with an unregistrable hack of a car that will most likely have completely messed up suspension geometry and handle like ass. Why do you want to do it? To be honest if you have to ask people on a forum how to go about it, you probably aren't the kind of person to be even attempting it.

LOLLLL What the hell did you expect? Get an aftermarket ecu, nistune or someone with a real time tuning board to make an epprom chip up for you on a dyno. Oh and obviously pay someone to actually tune it properly, don't get a cheapskate $200 tune.

Tune could have pushed it over the edge but it looks like it has just had a very hard life. How many kms were on the motor?

First do a compression test to rule out piston rings and it just generally being a worn motor. If this comes up good then I would be looking at the turbo oil seals leaking. You say it is white smoke, is it definitely white smoke and not blueish smoke? Because white smoke indicates burning water/coolant which creates steam and a light white smoke. Oil is generally more of a blueish tinge, if it is indeed white you could have a partially blown head gasket.

Definitely go with a Z32 or R32 gtst ecu and get a nistune module installed. If the rb25det only has a remapped eprom in it it wont save you any money, it also means it is harder for them to do the remapping most the time as the software is not as good, unless there is a way to use the nistune software with an emulator. Z32 ecu means you retain the VCT but is a bit more mucking around to get it going, there is a thread here discussing them all though, prob a good idea to have a read and see which ECU out of the R32 and Z32 is the better option.

A lot of the videos appear to be from some DVD or something, because at the end they go 'next episode' etc, what is this dvd as I wouldn't mind watching them all, not just your bits you've cut out. Thanks